02 Acura RSX-S - Esso Protec Extra 5W30

[pee-wee]

My RSX had 47,000km at the time of the sample. I dive to and from work every day, 95% of my driving cosists of very short trips. I usualy change oil every 6 months which works out to an average of 3000km to 5000km between every oil change.

My copper keeps on going up, but the rest of the weare metals look good...so Im still monitoring the copper.

Any ideas why the copper keeps climbing?

 

[Greaser]

Are the zinc numbers normal for a PCMO?Is this an SL rated oil?I think the HDEO XD-3 I'm using comes pretty close to these numbers.

 

[addyguy]

Those numbers don't seem right, unless this is an older version of Protec - I'm sure it should have less zinc, and slightly more moly and boron.....

Lost a lot of viscosity, as well....

 

[ATS-V]

I would say the increase in copper is due to the decrease in viscosity. I would think with your driving conditions that fuel dilution might be an issue, but there no flashpoing reading from this lab.

 

[pee-wee]

The Protec I was using was SL oil I picked up a few years back on sale. The TBN still looks good for oil used for 6 months and the fuel levels are below 1....so....

 

[BlazerLT]

Are you allowing the engine to warm up a bit before taking off?

 

[pee-wee]

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Are you allowing the engine to warm up a bit before taking off?

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Yes, but only for a minute or so then I start off on my 2 km drive.

 

[BlazerLT]

I think your problem might be not enough warm up time.

 

[pee-wee]

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I think your problem might be not enough warm up time.

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I agree partly with you. Yes, warm up time is definatly an issue, but so is carbon deposits if I let it idle too long every day as well as a waste gas. The car only gets up to temperature a few times a week when I do erands.

Going back to the copper...

If there are high levels of copper in my oil, shouldnt there be other metals as well? This is the part which I dont understand...its just copper

 

[Patman]

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I think your problem might be not enough warm up time.

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[BlazerLT]

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I think your problem might be not enough warm up time.

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Grow up Patman.

People are allowed to have a different opinion than you.

 

[Patman]

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I think your problem might be not enough warm up time.

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Grow up Patman.

People are allowed to have a different opinion than you.

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Don't be giving advice on things you have no experience with. You have zero proof that driving off without idling causes more engine wear, so stop telling everyone that it does. There are many true experts on this site who will tell you that you are completely wrong.

 

[BlazerLT]

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I think your problem might be not enough warm up time.

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Grow up Patman.

People are allowed to have a different opinion than you.

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Don't be giving advice on things you have no experience with. You have zero proof that driving off without idling causes more engine wear, so stop telling everyone that it does. There are many true experts on this site who will tell you that you are completely wrong.

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And don't base the world's results based on your testing alone which even includes a confusing increase in wear in your Civic?

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...part=1&vc=1

That increase in wear could be interpreted from lack of warmup in cold conditions.

You have proof of nothing and your results don't cover every engine on this forum. Your own results are coming back with odd wear patterns and increases so don't think your reults back your OPINION.

You don't see me runnign around to all of your threads creating fights just because they have a different opinion than you so please back off, this is a forum full of opinions and everyone is allowed to have them.

Thank you.

 

[Patman]

It's not just my oil analysis results which prove it though, it's many people's results on here. So just stop telling people that they need to idle their engines (and needlessly waste fuel!) in order to reduce engine wear, because it's flat out false. I don't like people spreading false information on this forum. There's too much of it going around already.

Thank you.

 

[Greaser]

What I would like to know is the difference in piston bore diameter from a very cold engine and one that at operating temperature.The engine is tight from the cold and the oil is thick and people stomp on the pedal to get to Tim Hortons first.I like to warm up for a couple of minutes before taking off.You two guys need to hug

 

[BlazerLT]

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It's not just my oil analysis results which prove it though, it's many people's results on here. So just stop telling people that they need to idle their engines (and needlessly waste fuel!) in order to reduce engine wear, because it's flat out false. I don't like people spreading false information on this forum. There's too much of it going around already.

Thank you.

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Sorry Patman, but allowing 3 minutes for proper lubrication flow is not unwarrented so just let it go.

All you have is your results and I bet I can get several UOA results where they idle their engine for a couple minutes and they have good wear results as well.

I personally monitored my cars warming up and at a cold temperature of -20c I started the engine and I monitored the engine temperature electronically through my car's onboard computer. From -20c to 25c it took 3.25 minutes which is when I drive away.

This is where things get interesting. The car actually doesn't get warmer faster when driving. Driving at 50km/hr for about 10 kms, the engine from 25c only went up to 52c in that relatively long distance.

So driving your car doesn't warm it up faster, the engine when at idle in the driveway got up to 65c in 5 minutes which is less time than it would take for it to reach that temperature after 10-15kms or more of driving.

So just for anyone's information, your engine will actually get warmer faster in the driveway in 5 minutes than it will get when driving under light load.

I had to see it to believe it and it is true.

 

[unDummy]

Switch to a 0w30 when your done with 5w30.
Consider a few shorter OCI's(like every 3 or 5 months) to rinse out that engine.
Short trips are tough on oil and engines.

Install an oil and/or block/coolant heater for winter months.

What oil filter is being used?

 

[Patman]

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Sorry Patman, but allowing 3 minutes for proper lubrication flow is not unwarrented so just let it go.

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Why do many owner's manuals tell you specifically to start and go immediately and drive gentle then? I know my mom's VW Golf's manual says exactly that, and I'm sure many others do as well.

Any automotive expert will tell you that idling a cold engine is not a good thing to do. You can try to tell us that it is, until you're blue in the face, but the fact is that it's simply not necessary.

So have fun wasting fuel, I'm done arguing with you, because all you have is your (wrong) opinion, while I've provided facts that show it's totally not necessary.

 

[Patman]

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So driving your car doesn't warm it up faster, the engine when at idle in the driveway got up to 65c in 5 minutes which is less time than it would take for it to reach that temperature after 10-15kms or more of driving.
So just for anyone's information, your engine will actually get warmer faster in the driveway in 5 minutes than it will get when driving under light load.

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I take it you're quoting coolant temperature by the way? It's oil temperature you need to be more concerned with.

Sure the coolant temperature might rise just as quick when idling in your driveway, but your oil temperature will not. You need to drive it and put a load on your engine in order for your oil temperature to rise quicker.

And oil temperature is much more important than coolant temperature. My Corvette reaches 190F coolant temps in just a few miles of driving but the oil temp is only 110F at that point. So the engine is not warmed up yet by any means. It takes a lot longer for the oil to reach full operating temperature. Idling in your driveway will not get your oil up to temperature for a long time. And everyone knows an engine is not fully warmed up until it's oil is up to temperature.

 

[Patman]

Read this:

http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/transportation/idling/issues/why-idling-problem.cfm?attr=8