02 Acura RSX-S - Esso Protec Extra 5W30

[BlazerLT]

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Sorry Patman, but allowing 3 minutes for proper lubrication flow is not unwarrented so just let it go.

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Why do many owner's manuals tell you specifically to start and go immediately and drive gentle then? I know my mom's VW Golf's manual says exactly that, and I'm sure many others do as well.

Any automotive expert will tell you that idling a cold engine is not a good thing to do. You can try to tell us that it is, until you're blue in the face, but the fact is that it's simply not necessary.

So have fun wasting fuel, I'm done arguing with you, because all you have is your (wrong) opinion, while I've provided facts that show it's totally not necessary.

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I have read all three owners manual in three of the cars in my driveway and none of them mention anything about driving off gentlely. None of them.....

In the winter I will wait three minutes at the start of the day when the engine has been sitting for more than 8 hours in the cold winter. After then it is just start and go.

I am not sitting around idling for 10 minutes, I am idling for three small minutes which might burn 25 cents worth of fuel at most.

Brushing your teeth takes longer and anyone going on that it is a huge waste of gas is ridiculously cheap or just plain out neurotic.

I would rather do that then haivng my engine rattle down the road for for first 10 minutes becuase I was just being cheap.

 

[BlazerLT]

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Read this:

http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/transportation/idling/issues/why-idling-problem.cfm?attr=8

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OMG....

I am not talking about sitting around idling, I am talking about 3 minutes at the first engine start of the day.

This has nothing to do with what I am talking about.....

 

[rcy]

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So driving your car doesn't warm it up faster, the engine when at idle in the driveway got up to 65c in 5 minutes which is less time than it would take for it to reach that temperature after 10-15kms or more of driving.
So just for anyone's information, your engine will actually get warmer faster in the driveway in 5 minutes than it will get when driving under light load.

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I take it you're quoting coolant temperature by the way? It's oil temperature you need to be more concerned with.

Sure the coolant temperature might rise just as quick when idling in your driveway, but your oil temperature will not. You need to drive it and put a load on your engine in order for your oil temperature to rise quicker.

And oil temperature is much more important than coolant temperature. My Corvette reaches 190F coolant temps in just a few miles of driving but the oil temp is only 110F at that point. So the engine is not warmed up yet by any means. It takes a lot longer for the oil to reach full operating temperature. Idling in your driveway will not get your oil up to temperature for a long time. And everyone knows an engine is not fully warmed up until it's oil is up to temperature.

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I can confirm what Patman says about oil temp. I put aftermarket Stewart Warner gauges on my 2000 Beetle and in the winter, coolant temp easily hit 190 in the 5km drive to the highway. Oil however, took at least 12km at highway speeds to hit 200+. Idling in my driveway, it was EASILY 20mins before the oil even approached 200.

 

[BlazerLT]

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So driving your car doesn't warm it up faster, the engine when at idle in the driveway got up to 65c in 5 minutes which is less time than it would take for it to reach that temperature after 10-15kms or more of driving.
So just for anyone's information, your engine will actually get warmer faster in the driveway in 5 minutes than it will get when driving under light load.

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I take it you're quoting coolant temperature by the way? It's oil temperature you need to be more concerned with.

Sure the coolant temperature might rise just as quick when idling in your driveway, but your oil temperature will not. You need to drive it and put a load on your engine in order for your oil temperature to rise quicker.

And oil temperature is much more important than coolant temperature. My Corvette reaches 190F coolant temps in just a few miles of driving but the oil temp is only 110F at that point. So the engine is not warmed up yet by any means. It takes a lot longer for the oil to reach full operating temperature. Idling in your driveway will not get your oil up to temperature for a long time. And everyone knows an engine is not fully warmed up until it's oil is up to temperature.

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I can confirm what Patman says about oil temp. I put aftermarket Stewart Warner gauges on my 2000 Beetle and in the winter, coolant temp easily hit 190 in the 5km drive to the highway. Oil however, took at least 12km at highway speeds to hit 200+. Idling in my driveway, it was EASILY 20mins before the oil even approached 200.

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True, but either way I would like to ahve my oil temperature at least above 0c before I take off.

 

[Sindarin06]

With no other signs of wear I think the high copper is coming from the oil cooler/heat exchanger. If this a sign of the oil cooler starting to go bad I don't know, although there are no signs of coolant in the oil.

I guess if you wanted to be anal about it you could try replacing the oil cooler to see if that helps but if it were my car, and since you perform UOA's, I'd just keep an eye on it as it doesn't seem to be harming anything.

Cheers

 

[pee-wee]

Thank you for all your opinions and information

After doing a little digging and reading your posts, Im thinking that the high copper may be due to fuel diluted oil which has been has been drawing copper from my oil cooler. Even though my fuel levels are below 1 on this UOA, I did make several long trips the weekend before this UOA.

Would I be correct in saying that fuel diluted oil will draw more metal or even slightly etch soft metals like copper ?

Thanks again for all your input

 

[TeeDub]

Much better results (less shearing, better TBN retention), with the SAE 5w30, Mobilgard SHC (synthetic hydrocarbon). This oil is essentially a low viscosity version of Delvac 1, abeit with a slightly different add pack.

TD