Purolator Classic L14610 [PICS CUT OPEN]

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Here you go...Classic 14610. Hope you enjoy!

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Baseplate has fewer openings than the Fram TG 7317
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The nitrile ADBV is flexible now, but wonder how it holds up after 3000+ miles.
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VERY straight and even pleats.
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About half the interior openings than the Fram TG.
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The bypass valve that is very hard to press open.
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The ADBV "sticks" in place unlike the TG 7317
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Nice glue job
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What are your thoughts on the nitrile ADBV? And what about the hard bypass valve, I really favor flow in my driving application.
 
I really think they the best value filter going. They are my goto filters now.
 
Wow gotta love Classics look at all that media in a 3 buck filter.

As always, thanks for cutting and posting!
 
There is nothing wrong with the number and size of the holes in the base plate and center tube. There is nothing wrong with the bypass valve, as I tried to explain in the other thread.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3097538#Post3097538

The Purolators flow way more than your engine can possible put through it - as well as any other good brand name filters will. You're worrying over nothing.
grin.gif


Use either one ... you engine will not know the difference.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
There is nothing wrong with the number and size of the holes in the base plate and center tube. There is nothing wrong with the bypass valve, as I tried to explain in the other thread.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3097538#Post3097538

The Purolators flow way more than your engine can possible put through it ...

+1000 Been using Purolator filters with the flat spring design for years with no issues. And the now too oft repeated questions/claims of oil filter flow are no more than fodder for idle chatter on internet boards.

The very first pics I posted here were of two Purolator made filters using that design. The now discontinued AAP Total Grip used for 5k and a PL14610 run for 7k. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1940720 Both solid filters as shown in the pic below. Difference here is these filter have been in actual use for true oci's thus proving their construction quality and design.

And as is common knowledge for most reading this board, nitrile adbv's are used in the more value oriented filter filters, generally good for 5-6k, longer if no start up noise. And silicone is used in the higher end filters and generally for longer ocis.

As for the base plate holes (number, shape, yada yada) and flat spring design, having successfully used them for many years, I'm confident the engineers at Purolator know more about a now proven filter design than some novice cutting open filters and implying some bogus/imaginary flaw.

As I like to say about the Classic, if you can find a better filter for $3.27, buy it.

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Thank you gregk24 for completely destroying a brand new filter for our pleasure
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No really, I mean that! I really appriceate you doing this at your own cost.

The filter looks to be a decent filter from the inside/out. In fact, this is the exact filter that I use on my Altima and for good reason. The #14610 seems to "reduce" the startup rattle that my Altima's engine experiences from time to time, better then other filters that I've tried over the 9 years that I've ownd the car.

I was always hesitent on using the small size of the #14610 and, used some oversized filters that I had in my stash(#14459 available & #24458 discontinued) but, they allowed even more startup rattle than the smaller #14610.

And thanks again to sayjac for reposting your pictures as well!
 
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I used Classics a lot on my Charger when I had it. However, I did notice that the last two times I would get start up knock, switched to a Fram Ultra on this last OCI and the knock stopped. I'm willing to bet money that it was the ADBV material.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Yeah, much better than OCOD and the bonus is it costs less.


If you are saying they are better because they have better filtering efficiency, then your statement is blatently false. The 14610 used for nearly every Honda and many Nissans is rated at 40 mics while the OCOD is rated at approximately 94% at 20 mics. Please tell me how that is better
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Yeah, much better than OCOD and the bonus is it costs less.


If you are saying they are better because they have better filtering efficiency, then your statement is blatently false. The 14610 used for nearly every Honda and many Nissans is rated at 40 mics while the OCOD is rated at approximately 94% at 20 mics. Please tell me how that is better


I'm going to assume he meant that it is due to metal end caps, amount of media, and more evenly spaced/sturdy media.
 
Originally Posted By: RamFan
I used Classics a lot on my Charger when I had it. However, I did notice that the last two times I would get start up knock, switched to a Fram Ultra on this last OCI and the knock stopped. I'm willing to bet money that it was the ADBV material.


What does knock have to do with oil?
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: RamFan
I used Classics a lot on my Charger when I had it. However, I did notice that the last two times I would get start up knock, switched to a Fram Ultra on this last OCI and the knock stopped. I'm willing to bet money that it was the ADBV material.


What does knock have to do with oil?


Might be possible that if the ADBV lets the oiling circuit drain back to the pan that hydraulic lifters could drain, and upon a cold start they are a little noisy for a minute while they pump back up. Some people might call it a "tick", some might call it a "knock", or some other kind of "start-up noise".
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: RamFan
I used Classics a lot on my Charger when I had it. However, I did notice that the last two times I would get start up knock, switched to a Fram Ultra on this last OCI and the knock stopped. I'm willing to bet money that it was the ADBV material.


What does knock have to do with oil?


Might be possible that if the ADBV lets the oiling circuit drain back to the pan that hydraulic lifters could drain, and upon a cold start they are a little noisy for a minute while they pump back up. Some people might call it a "tick", some might call it a "knock", or some other kind of "start-up noise".


Bingo.
 
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