Mobil 1 0W20 @ 5.3k; 14k mi; '11 Tacoma 4cyl

[JerryBob]

2011 Tacoma with 4 cyl, 5 speed manual. Truck has 14k miles, and 5,300 miles on this oil. 95% of the miles on this oil change were highway driving. The filter was also a Mobil-1 M-102.

I paid for a TBN out of curiosity, but do not intend to extend the manufacturer-specified 5k OCI to 7.5K as suggested in the report, especially since this was all highway driving.

I guess I'll continue using the Mobil-1 Syn and Filter combo.

Not sure if the magnesium number is a concern, since it is higher than the norm.

This reminds me of reading my HDL, LDL, and PSA numbers from my annual physical.

 

[Brybo86]

based on the title I thought you went 14k on the oil, you don't need M1 if you are only going 5k OCIs, mobil super would be plenty

 

[spasm3]

you are not getting any benefit out of the synthetic at 5k on highway runs. Highway mileage is easiest on the oil. mobil 1 would probably go easily 7.5 to 10 for highway use. I understand you want to stay within warranty specs. A good conventional oil will do just as well and save you some money. You are getting no benefit from syn over conventional at that change interval.

 

[JerryBob]

Yeah, I wasn't clear if they meant miles or OCI miles. My owner's manual specifically says to use synthetic. Hard to find 0W20 (also specified) that is not synthetic.

 

[JOD]

Does the mfg really require 5K OCI's with 0W20? That seems nutty to me.

You mention highway miles as if they're somehow harder on the engine, but really they're not. That's the easiest driving you can do. You could easily extend the OCI if there's not a warranty concern.

Mg is an additive of the oil, so there's no concern there. Blackstone doesn't do "oil-specific" averages of oil additives.

If you really have to do 5K OCI's on 0W20, I probably wouldn't bother with any more UOA's, because the oil could easily do twice the mileage with your driving habits. That said, I thought Toyota was on 10K OCI's on cars spec'd for 0W20?

 

[JerryBob]

I can't speak to that, but as I mentioned, I have never seen 0W20 in conventional motor oil in any stores in my area.

My time and trouble in seeking it out is probably not worth the savings.

 

[JerryBob]

Originally Posted By: JOD
Does the mfg really require 5K OCI's with 0W20? That seems nutty to me.


For a 4 Cyl, they do. I believe the 6 cylinders might be different.

 

[JerryBob]

Originally Posted By: JOD

You mention highway miles as if they're somehow harder on the engine, but really they're not. That's the easiest driving you can do. You could easily extend the OCI if there's not a warranty concern.



Where exactly do you infer that? I fully understand that highway driving is easier.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: JerryBob
Originally Posted By: JOD

You mention highway miles as if they're somehow harder on the engine, but really they're not. That's the easiest driving you can do. You could easily extend the OCI if there's not a warranty concern.



Where exactly do you infer that? I fully understand that highway driving is easier.


From the following quote:

Originally Posted By: JerryBob

I paid for a TBN out of curiosity, but do not intend to extend the manufacturer-specified 5k OCI to 7.5K as suggested in the report, especially since this was all highway driving.


I get that you want to keep the warranty intact, but the above suggests that the driving parameters play a role as well.

 

[JerryBob]

Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: JerryBob
Originally Posted By: JOD

You mention highway miles as if they're somehow harder on the engine, but really they're not. That's the easiest driving you can do. You could easily extend the OCI if there's not a warranty concern.



Where exactly do you infer that? I fully understand that highway driving is easier.


From the following quote:

Originally Posted By: JerryBob

I paid for a TBN out of curiosity, but do not intend to extend the manufacturer-specified 5k OCI to 7.5K as suggested in the report, especially since this was all highway driving.



Exactly. The next bit of driving I do will not be highway driving, so a TBN of 3 on oil used for highway driving cannot be used as a basis for a decision for oil used under different circumstances.

 

[jimbrewer]

Originally Posted By: Brybo86
based on the title I thought you went 14k on the oil, you don't need M1 if you are only going 5k OCIs, mobil super would be plenty


well, for that matter, if the original poster is putting so few miles on his car, his chances of wearing out the engine in the next twenty years is next to nil no matter what he does.

 

[NO2]

I'd check with Toyota to see if they changed the OCI to 10K. We had a 2010 Camry 2.4L and they changed the interval from 5K to 10K after the maintenance schedule was published. Toyota kept the 'severe' OCI at 5K.

 

[RN89]

Just out of curiosity, for those that say "you're not benefiting using syn over conventional" then what do you say to those that recommend running a good synthetic to "clean things up after so many miles of running conventional?"

I've seen that recommendation many times...wouldn't a good quality conventional changed a regular intervals keep the engine just as clean?

 

[77GrandPrix]

6 quarts of make up oil? Really?

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: RN89
Just out of curiosity, for those that say "you're not benefiting using syn over conventional" then what do you say to those that recommend running a good synthetic to "clean things up after so many miles of running conventional?"

I've seen that recommendation many times...wouldn't a good quality conventional changed a regular intervals keep the engine just as clean?


Well, I for one wouldn't make that claim. Detergent levels and base oils are two different things. It does seem that some synthetics make that advertising claim, but I guess you could tell more by looking at the levels of detergents in a VOA.

It's kinda moot in this case, though. The engine is brand new.

 

[dnewton3]

Several things to note here ...

What they "recommend" for vis and what they "require" for an API cert are two different things. I suspect you could easily run an SN 5w-20 dino lube and still be covered under warranty. However, you should read your manual carefully to make sure.

5-7.5k miles on any syn is a total waste. Your driving is about as easy on oil as could ever hope to be; highway driving brings things up to temp and keeps them there. Most any dino could easily do this. There are dino UOAs with 2x this distance that have just as good results.

I'm not saying the M1 didn't do well by the engine; that's not true. I'm saying it is bashing your wallet. See the difference?

Also - I will change your thread title; it is misleading. Please follow our posting convention for thread titles; makes it easier for searching, etc.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: RN89
Just out of curiosity, for those that say "you're not benefiting using syn over conventional" then what do you say to those that recommend running a good synthetic to "clean things up after so many miles of running conventional?"

I've seen that recommendation many times...wouldn't a good quality conventional changed a regular intervals keep the engine just as clean?


Dino oil changed every 3000 miles in my 2000 Century sure didn't keep it clean. My father was the original owner and had the oil religiously changed either by the dealer or local shops. I took the car at about 84,500 miles and looking down the oil fill hole at the mess in there was not impressive at all. It was loaded with varnish. I have pictures of the mess in the oil additive section, under "My Kreen test".

 

[dnewton3]

Some applications challenge any lube; that is not the fault of the lube. Some Toyota engines, the SL2 Saturns, etc; they are known sludgers. The Toys have very high head temps issues which cook the oil. The Saturns have a poor oil ring design that does not let oil drain off the piston well. These are not the fault of the lube; it's a design issue.

At the other end of spectrum, there are some engines that simply don't care what lube you run. The old "slant six" Chryslers, the 4.9L I-6 Ford, the Ford Vulcan, the GM Duramax, the Nissan VG30E. These engines can run on any house brand qualified lube and easily surpass the OEM OCI with no harm whatsoever; no wear issues and no sludging.

Your 2000 Centruy may have been varnished up with dino at 3k mile OCIs, but it probably would have been just as dirty with syns at 5k miles. Some engines just have a penchant for chewing up lubes.

I will also note that "varnish" is not always harmful. True sludge is a problem, but discoloration and light surface coating is not a problem. Since I cannot see inside your valvecover, I have no ability to know how bad it is, or if it actually effected anything. Do your UOAs show a degradation of wear control, specfically due to this varnish layer, or is it just an asthetic objection you have?

Read my signature line; it's very accurate. ANY product can be under or over utilized; it's a matter of knowing the application and monitoring the results. In a manner of speaking, it's not unlike a performer in public - you have to know your audience if you want to succeed. And so you have to know your equipment traits to pick your lube and OCI.

 

[demarpaint]

I agree with everything you've said. There are a lot of blanket statements made here like: run a synthetic like [xyz] for a few short to clean up an engine, or dino oil changed every 5,000 miles will keep an engine clean, A few short runs with PYB or a good HM oil will clean that mess up, yada, yada, yada. My point in mentioning my Buick is short OCI's and dino oil don't always keep an engine clean, [I can't speak for synthetic in that application because it wasn't used]. Blanket statements, and one size fits all can get people in trouble sometimes. What is interesting with the Buick was my father was the original owner and has every invoice for work done. If I bought it from a complete stranger that would have been a different story, but then again had I actually had to pay for the car I would have passed.

 

[JerryBob]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Several things to note here ...
I'm not saying the M1 didn't do well by the engine; that's not true. I'm saying it is bashing your wallet. See the difference?

Also - I will change your thread title; it is misleading. Please follow our posting convention for thread titles; makes it easier for searching, etc.


I believe you. But I buy the oil/filter combo on sale at AAP and do it myself. So the actual money I'd be saving is about what I spend every two days on subway fare to commute. So in absolute terms, it isn't that big of a deal. I am just going to keep life simple and follow the owner's manual to the letter.

Plus, I am rich, so who cares about the money