2015 Tacoma 2TRFE 237k mi; Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 4.7k mil, with a mobil 1 filter

[hansj3]

As the title says I have a 2015 Tacoma with a 4 cylinder. I ran Pennzoil Platinum 0W20 and a mobile one filter. I ran it just over 4600 miles, just shy of the 5000 mi recommended interval.

Looks like they were concerned about the iron and potassium, in the flash point is just under the spec.

Any thoughts on this other than what they posted?

I've had a recurring issue, on Cold starts below. Freezing, The oil light stays on for an extended period of time.

 

[dnewton3]

Sounds like those cold starts may be leading to a delayed oil pressure situation. How long is "extended" anyway? Seconds? Minutes?

I can't imagine the oil vis is the issue; plenty thin enough to flow to the pump so cavitation is highly unlikely.

Perhaps a mechanical problem? Maybe the pump relief isn't closing down, and it's bleeding off too much pressure?

I'm sure there's a spec for the pressure at the pump, and also at some galley port. You might investigate those values and take some measurements if you have the time/skills to do so. Otherwise, perhaps take it to a shop and get a quote on checking the pressure at cold start, and even after warm-up.

 

[JavierH19]

As dnewton3 said it could be a a pump issue. The relief valve might get stuck open causing pressure buildup to take longer.

There may also be something clogging the pickup tube since oil suction seems delayed. Perhaps an oring might be broken as well. How easy or difficult would it be for you to drop the pan. If It's 2wd It shouldn't take long at all.

 

[fantastic]

With 237k in a truck with potentially 0w-20 the whole run I'd imaging that it's probably low compression. I'd take each spark plug out & do a compression test then compare with what Toyota's minimum psi is for that engine are. As a band aid you could go to a 0w-40 to try & get some pressure back but no guarantees. Also, what the others noted but I'd start with my suggestion as it may be the cheaper option first.

 

[hansj3]

Mechanically I'm starting to think it's the VVT system. Either the camshaft actuator or the solenoid.

As far as oil pressure, last time I did it was a summertime but it was above spec at idle both cold and hot. I can't quite remember what it was but I know it was above 20 psi idle

Compression, I tested a few years back, and again, I couldn't tell you what the numbers were, but I remember them being reasonable.

Unfortunately this truck is four-wheel drive, and the 2015's were a test bed for the third gen trucks, so they are kind of a pain in the ass. I checked the pickup tube but I was not able to fully drop the pan, but at least I know that's clear. I also check the oil pump relief, It has an external access. The pump itself is cast into the front cover.

I tried thicker oils, and it seems to like it in the summer time, but it really does improve with thinner oils and cold weather.

As far as the duration, the incident I mentioned to them lasted about 50 seconds or so. Enough to freak me out, but it didn't seem to cause irreparable damage. Most of the time it's about 20 seconds. Both of those are an order of magnitude longer than I like to see.

Long term, it's only ever happens to me about 5 to 10 times a year. I'll probably just keep driving it until I need a clutch and deal with it then.

I guess my bigger question is long-term out of those numbers look?

 

[twX]

Mechanically I'm starting to think it's the VVT system. Either the camshaft actuator or the solenoid.

I doubt it's a problem with anything downstream of the oil pressure switch. Less restriction in the oiling system will lower the pressure, but oil pressure at cold idle should be 50+ psi, and the oil pressure light should deactivate above ~2-5 psi. Nothing downstream of the pressure switch will cause such a drastic drop in oil pressure.

The first thing I would do is rule out a problem with the oil pressure switch. This might be difficult to do if the problem is intermittent, but you could install a proper oil pressure gauge in the cab.

Assuming the oil pressure switch is accurate, it's got to be related to the oil pump or pickup, or to excessive restriction between the oil pump and pressure switch (like a defective oil filter). If the problem occurs with different oil filters, you can pretty much rule out that theory.

 

[fantastic]

Well, with the potassium spiked a bit the head gaskets might have a minor leak into the combustion cylinder. Does this have anything related to the Iron spike? Don't know unless you've consistently done a UOA to see it starting to happen. I'd say the Iron wear may be upper valve train but I'd just keep on trucking for as long as possible BUT if the Potassium starts rising high enough that you see coolant loss then it's time to get new gaskets & you'd have the option for rebuilt heads at that time too.

 

[Oliveoil2]

Well, with the potassium spiked a bit the head gaskets might have a minor leak into the combustion cylinder. Does this have anything related to the Iron spike? Don't know unless you've consistently done a UOA to see it starting to happen. I'd say the Iron wear may be upper valve train but I'd just keep on trucking for as long as possible BUT if the Potassium starts rising high enough that you see coolant loss then it's time to get new gaskets & you'd have the option for rebuilt heads at that time too.

This^^^