Are the components from Energy Suspension good? Are they better than OEM replacement parts? About 20 years ago when polyurethane suspension components first started coming out, I saw a few leaf spring and sway bar bushing split (I think they were Rancho parts). They split a lot sooner than the factory rubber ones they replaced. Have the polyurethane components gotten better and will they last as long as stock parts (10+ years or 100k+ miles)? How much better or worse is the ride quality? This is for a 2001 GMC truck, and I don't do any heavy off-road driving. I am not really looking for handling improvement. I want something that is as good as, or better than, stock, but for the same cost or less.

I've used a number of their products, from a complete polygraphite front bushing kit, to greasable polyurethane sway bar bushings, to bump stops (all on separate vehicles).

I prefer rubber bushings in the control arms/leaf springs, but polyurethane (as long as it's greasable) on the sway bar. Ride quality with the polygraphite front bushing kit was horrible (and I eventually paid a garage to put it all back to rubber). But ride quality does not really suffer with the sway bar products, and handling improves.

The quality itself from every Energy Suspension product I've had as been very good.

They're performance-oriented (typically) and are very good.

It also depends what specific bushings you want to replace.

Energy and other companies offer poly bushings for applications they really shouldn't be used for.

For example, you can buy poly bushings for the lower control arms on my girlfriend's VW Beetle. But, poly bushings shouldn't be used for at least one of the bushings, because of the way the bushing needs to flex.

Long story short, do a little searching on a forum specific to your vehicle and see what people say. Just because you can buy a poly bushing, that doesn't mean it's appropriate for the job.

I need them for the sway bar end link, and I might replace the sway bar bushings as well.

Sway bar end links are easy, bushings can be easy to strong cuss word producing [esp in the front].

Energy suspension bushings are very good.

Note that urethane should be greased - special lube is best, but use whatever you have instead of dry.
I like to dimple bushings for grease retention. Like a golf ball, only smaller concavities. A dremel tool with a round burr tip does this in a minute.

Rubber flexes, and urethane is a bearing -the part rotates in it.
This is why rubber suspension bushings like control arms should be final tightened with the weight of the car on the tires, and urethane should not matter.

I think those are appropriate uses for poly bushings, but I'm no expert.

I installed Energy Suspension sway bar end link bushings on the xB last year, as the original bushings showed quite a few cracks after 100k+. I've been pleased with the improved handling, but can't speak to how long they'll last.

As long as you do not over-tighten the end link bolts, and over-bulge/split the bushings, they last a LONG time.

Mine typically last >75K miles, even with sticky tires on wide wheels, and stiff shocks and springs, with both open-track and VERY rough pavement street use.

I have them on the Trans Am, I have been pretty happy with them. Helped it to feel a bit more solid.

Hi mechtech2

What type of grease is recommended? There was a recent thread, but not sure what the final verdict was. I'm about to purchase a 2001 SVT Cobra and plan to replace any worn bushings. I'd be buying the front sway bar bushings with the zerk fitting. Which "tube" for grease gun is best?

thx Joe

I put ES endlinks onto my old Buick. It made a nice difference in how the car handled. They proved pretty durable, too. I'd use their stuff again.

I've used several of their products in the past, and have had problems with none of them. They make quality products from my experience.

Prothane (and others) offer a polyurethane specific grease (clear, and VERY tenacious/viscous) in 14 ounce grease gun cartridges, but it is NOT cheap!! (>$36.00/tube!!! )

The 'right' grease is urethane sway bar specific. Good luck finding it in the first place.

I generally use moly chassis grease.
If you have zerk fittings, make sure there are grooves to distribute the lube all around. I still like my internal dimples - they are little reservoirs.