Is a high mileage 07 Volvo S60 a good buy?

[OM605]

I like my old worn 96 C-class manual but i'm looking for something more modern with less age related issues, automatic, with a good sound system and good seats. Preferably a diesel too. I drive a lot for work and don't have time much time to spend on replacing parts. My first choice is a 04 to 09 W211 E-class but they are still a bit pricey for me if i want something sorted and decent.

There's a 07 Volvo S60 an hour drive away from me. It has a 5 cylinder 2.0 turbo diesel 163 hp and an Aisin TF-80SC 6 speed transmission. 308,000 km on the clock but it looks really good, especially the leather interior. Owner told me there's a full service history from new. What is the service interval for this transmission for this car model? What are the weaknesses and things to check first?

MOT shows only two minors faults: slightly worn front discs and a suspension bushing. I am told these cars are bulletproof and mileage shouldn't be an issue but i'd like to avoid playing russian roulette.

 

[Astro14]

The Volvo P2 chassis is a durable, reliable, car that is easy to service and has good parts availability.

Suspension bushings (front lower control arm) are an “every 80,000 mile” part. They are not hard, and I would simply put a set of new Volvo, or Lemfoerder, control arms on the car.

Brakes on this car piece of cake. A rotor and pad change is easy.

The TF-80 is a good unit. Volvo did not specify a service interval but this it is my belief that any transmission needs regular fluid changes.

It’s a good idea to check the service records as you are doing.

But if transmission fluid changes are not among those records, at 300,000 km, I would probably walk away from this one

 

[OM605]

He or she just told me that the transmission has been serviced numerous times. That's good to hear. I'll have to go through the records to verify it. Is there a dipstick to check how the ATF looks?

 

[ecotourist]

When I had a 740 Turbo, a trusted Volvo specialist repair guy told me that Volvos start needing a lot of repairs when they get past 300,000 km. That's for an older generation but the comment may carry forward.

And those older Volvos might have been better than newer ones.

But if you're willing to keep up with the repairs I don't see any reason not to keep going. I gave up on mine because it had a bit of rust in difficult to repair places after "only" 18 1/2 years.

 

[Kira]

At 192,500 miles (308 Kkm) it should've seen a timing belt (with pulleys) change by now. If done on time, 105,000 miles, the second T-belt change is soon. This is when you include the water pump. Volvo water pump is good for 2 timing belt changes. Fudge the numbers as you see fit.

The 2007 (what I'm driving now in petrol) saw a change to steel lower control arms. In earlier years, Volvo used an alloy arm.
I installed polyurethane bushings into my '02's arms. Powerflex (UK) says the polys fit the '07's as well. Consider those as they added a touch of firmness.
Ignore those who say they impart a harsh ride. The improvement is great.

Also, I got the subframe mount fillers on sale and popped them in. It's a high school kids job but also loaned a touch of firmness to the ride so don't mock.

I'm not among those who'll go deep into their bank accounts for large diameter wheels and ridiculously low profile tires but do whatever you like, obviously.
When you hit a pothole, bend/break a wheel and lose an expensive tire, don't forget I told you so. (kidding but serious at the same time)

GO and join: www.volvoforums.org.uk They have a huge diesel membership.

I couldn't recommend this vehicle more.

You may experience a frayed wire in the rear liftgate loom at the hinge.

Remember, the 5W5 (not a 193 or 194) bulb goes in the license plate lights.
The thinner 193 + 194 might light but they'll loosen, buzz and heat up.
These three lights are 3v., 4v., and 5v respectively.
The sockets, and those of the headlights are extraordinarily cheap. Be ready to replace them....no big deal at all.

 

[OM605]

At 192,500 miles (308 Kkm) it should've seen a timing belt (with pulleys) change by now. If done on time, 105,000 miles, the second T-belt change is soon.

Indeed, the owner told me there are two years left before it's due.

 

[Oillover]

Ah, the Volvo S60! A fine vehicle. Mine was a 2004, had a lot of good times in that car. Once I drove that truck all the way to Newark! Couldn't believe it made it, but that old ride was one tough son-of-a-*****. It was a long trip but I just popped in my Johnny Cash cassette tapes and I was set for the whole ride. Do you listen to Johnny Cash? Great man, he was.

 

[Kira]

Newark, Delaware?

 

[gman2304]

Newark, Delaware?

Hopefully, not Newark, New Joisey….

 

[Kira]

I can't hold your response against you but it's not 1966 anymore.
It ain't no glamour destination but a lot of people get a lot of work done there....which is more than a lot of places can boast in this world.
just sayin'

 

[dlundblad]

The Volvo P2 chassis is a durable, reliable, car that is easy to service and has good parts availability.

Suspension bushings (front lower control arm) are an “every 80,000 mile” part. They are not hard, and I would simply put a set of new Volvo, or Lemfoerder, control arms on the car.

Brakes on this car piece of cake. A rotor and pad change is easy.

The TF-80 is a good unit. Volvo did not specify a service interval but this it is my belief that any transmission needs regular fluid changes.

It’s a good idea to check the service records as you are doing.

But if transmission fluid changes are not among those records, at 300,000 km, I would probably walk away from this one

Not to hijack OP’s thread, but how does the P2 XC90 with the Yamaha V8 compare reliability wise to say a P2 with the 2.4t?

 

[Astro14]

Not to hijack OP’s thread, but how does the P2 XC90 with the Yamaha V8 compare reliability wise to say a P2 with the 2.4t?

I’ve heard that the Yamaha V-8 is pretty reliable, but that the GM auto behind it is not. I’ve got no first hand experience with either. The AW transmissions and the 5 cylinder are very reliable, so I’ve stayed with that architecture

 

[meep]

I’ve had 3 s60s of that generation and they were all solid vehicles, built to a quality and standard I’ve not seen anywhere else. one important trick to Volvo ownership is to keep them fixed. If the current owner has done that, it says a lot, because they DO break little things over time.

the primary things to look for are evidence of a fouled PCV system, timing belt replacement, no ABS light. Non-turbo models are prone to a 1-2 shift flare. Floor it a couple of times on the test drive to make sure no “reduced engine power” message pops up.

if it all checks, run synthetic oil in it to ward off PCV issues, and enjoy the car.

a few fond memories - amsoil signature series ATF and a magnafine filter fixed the 1-2 shift flare in the NA model I had. did the same for the turbo model I had, but it didn’t have the problem and simply kept soldiering on. One of mine used a quart every 1000 when purchased. At every change I added half a can of seafoam, and by 15000 miles of my own, it had stopped consuming oil. The models with 3 speakers in the front doors sound better than the models with 2. Models with halogen headlights were more effective at throwing light on the road than the fancy HIDs.

its worth buying a code scanner than resets the airbag light. As soon as you start working on the vehicle, this error is very easy to trip. $120 on Amazon.

they ride much better with the smaller wheel sizes. It’s also amazing how much debris, potholes and frozen slush they can absorb, mile after mile, without breaking your teeth. These are IMO some of the best FWD sedans made.

if you are a DIY guy, it took me a year or so to get comfortable with working on them. They have a different “style” than a Toyota or Honda. It took me a minute to get used to it. After some wrench time, however, I came to quite appreciate the way these are put together.

oh, the seats. Of course you know that Volvo seats are revered as the best. I have found the drivers side bolster is a common wear and tear point. I was able to re-sew mine using a needle and thicker thread, either carpet thread or maybe “spider wire” fishing line, running the needle through the original thread holes or using a pair of pliers to exhibit enough force to push through. Was able to do it with the seat in the car.

 

[OM605]

Thanks! There's a second car i'm interested in, it is the exact same car but with a cream leather interior instead of black, same mileage (301,000 km) and the price is the same but it is a 06 and it looks like there were two different auto transmissions installed, a 5 speed (and 6?) AW55-50/51 SN or the 6 speed TF-80SC. Is the 5 speed any better or worse than the 6 speed?

 

[meep]

all 3 of mine had the 5. IMO the 5spds which came with the turbo variants seemed to hold up better, and I personally preferred the cream interior.