I've been reading that dino oil begins to breakdown at 250 degrees fahrenheit. Is this the temperature of the oil or the coolant? If I live in an area where the temperature gets to 100 degrees in the summer months, is it okay to use a dino oil?
Dino oil
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Upping the weight would be a 5w40 versus a 5w30 not a 5w30 vs a 10w30. You are correct though that a 5w30 will shear more than a 10w30, but this is only true given the right conditions and most engines today are easy on oil so this is of little concern.
As for dino oil, as long as the manual doesn't specifically state that you need synthetic (99% don't) then you are fine to run Dino in over 100F weather just fine.
I choose to run synthetic in my dino requiring engine because my engine design likes to coke oil, harden valve seals and because my work pays me for my oil changes and so I run the best I can. I also do it for the cold flow advantage in the winter.
Otherwise I would run dino like everyone else...
Steve
As for dino oil, as long as the manual doesn't specifically state that you need synthetic (99% don't) then you are fine to run Dino in over 100F weather just fine.
I choose to run synthetic in my dino requiring engine because my engine design likes to coke oil, harden valve seals and because my work pays me for my oil changes and so I run the best I can. I also do it for the cold flow advantage in the winter.
Otherwise I would run dino like everyone else...
Steve
I would add that if you drive a diesel, some of the "dino" conventional (AKA HDEO oils) can be as good as some of the synthetics. Even in gasoline engines, conventional oil has come a long way from the old days! Oh, and
I guess all the cars that the engines go 250,000 to 300,00+ on dino oil shouldn't? Were did you read that about the 250*?
Originally Posted By: Steve S
I guess all the cars that the engines go 250,000 to 300,00+ on dino oil shouldn't? Were did you read that about the 250*?
I can't remember specifically what websites they were, but they all just mentioned that dino oil begins to breakdown around 250 degrees, which I believe to be true, because it's not synthetic.
I guess all the cars that the engines go 250,000 to 300,00+ on dino oil shouldn't? Were did you read that about the 250*?
I can't remember specifically what websites they were, but they all just mentioned that dino oil begins to breakdown around 250 degrees, which I believe to be true, because it's not synthetic.
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If my cooling system is operating properly, it maintains my engine's internals at a fairly constant temperature. That would mean that the "hot spots" inside the motor aren't significantly, if any, hotter in the summer than in the winter.
Originally Posted By: asamek
If my cooling system is operating properly, it maintains my engine's internals at a fairly constant temperature. That would mean that the "hot spots" inside the motor aren't significantly, if any, hotter in the summer than in the winter.
I disagree...
I know my water temperature in the summer according to my scangauge-II runs about 20oF warmer in the summer than in the winter.
If my cooling system is operating properly, it maintains my engine's internals at a fairly constant temperature. That would mean that the "hot spots" inside the motor aren't significantly, if any, hotter in the summer than in the winter.
I disagree...
I know my water temperature in the summer according to my scangauge-II runs about 20oF warmer in the summer than in the winter.
Interesting!
I have a scanguage II as well, and it reads around 204 summer and winter.
On the other hand, you're a tad bit further north than me...
But even so, I'd hope that the difference wouldn't be enough to cause a failure of the conventional oil.
I have a scanguage II as well, and it reads around 204 summer and winter.
On the other hand, you're a tad bit further north than me...
But even so, I'd hope that the difference wouldn't be enough to cause a failure of the conventional oil.
The 250 F you mention is about OIL temps, NOT water temps.
This temperature is not exactly written in stone, BTW.
But full synthetics are better for real high heat.
How do you know how hot your oil is? An oil temp gauge is the only way.
Dino oils are good for all but the most extraordinary circumstances. Turbochargers and racing are extraordinary, at some times.
Modern cars and dino oils are well able to take 100 heat.
This temperature is not exactly written in stone, BTW.
But full synthetics are better for real high heat.
How do you know how hot your oil is? An oil temp gauge is the only way.
Dino oils are good for all but the most extraordinary circumstances. Turbochargers and racing are extraordinary, at some times.
Modern cars and dino oils are well able to take 100 heat.
Originally Posted By: asamek
Interesting!
I have a scanguage II as well, and it reads around 204 summer and winter.
On the other hand, you're a tad bit further north than me...
But even so, I'd hope that the difference wouldn't be enough to cause a failure of the conventional oil.
Interesting that yours doesn't change... I know it's not my temperature sensor because I replaced it in the past month to cure a problem I'm having and it hasn't changed.
Interesting!
I have a scanguage II as well, and it reads around 204 summer and winter.
On the other hand, you're a tad bit further north than me...
But even so, I'd hope that the difference wouldn't be enough to cause a failure of the conventional oil.
Interesting that yours doesn't change... I know it's not my temperature sensor because I replaced it in the past month to cure a problem I'm having and it hasn't changed.
Patman
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: asamek
Interesting!
I have a scanguage II as well, and it reads around 204 summer and winter.
On the other hand, you're a tad bit further north than me...
But even so, I'd hope that the difference wouldn't be enough to cause a failure of the conventional oil.
Interesting that yours doesn't change... I know it's not my temperature sensor because I replaced it in the past month to cure a problem I'm having and it hasn't changed.
The coolant temperature in my Corvette doesn't change from winter to summer either. It always likes to run at 190F on the highway whether it's the dead of winter or the hottest summer day. It'll spike up higher in the summer in traffic obviously.
As far as oil temp goes, it's definitely hotter in the summer. In winter it'll be just a tick under 200F on the highway, while in the summer on that same highway run it'll be 215 to 220.
Originally Posted By: asamek
Interesting!
I have a scanguage II as well, and it reads around 204 summer and winter.
On the other hand, you're a tad bit further north than me...
But even so, I'd hope that the difference wouldn't be enough to cause a failure of the conventional oil.
Interesting that yours doesn't change... I know it's not my temperature sensor because I replaced it in the past month to cure a problem I'm having and it hasn't changed.
The coolant temperature in my Corvette doesn't change from winter to summer either. It always likes to run at 190F on the highway whether it's the dead of winter or the hottest summer day. It'll spike up higher in the summer in traffic obviously.
As far as oil temp goes, it's definitely hotter in the summer. In winter it'll be just a tick under 200F on the highway, while in the summer on that same highway run it'll be 215 to 220.
Interesting that yours doesn't change... I know it's not my temperature sensor because I replaced it in the past month to cure a problem I'm having and it hasn't changed. shrug
Stevie - don't misunderstand. It fluctuates. I'm talking about where it stays on average. 204 is about the median operating temp - whether it's 110 outside or 18...
Stevie - don't misunderstand. It fluctuates. I'm talking about where it stays on average. 204 is about the median operating temp - whether it's 110 outside or 18...
Yeah I'm talking about average too...
Your car's thermostat is set at a number close to 200F and that will be what your car runs at, regardless of outside temps.
The 100F is pretty cool compared to this. LOTS of cars around here that run on dino in 120F+.
The 100F is pretty cool compared to this. LOTS of cars around here that run on dino in 120F+.
That's what I'm saying, Tempest.
If the coolant temp is relatively constant, then I'd have to assume the internal operating remains relatively constant (higher than the coolant, of course) - which is to say, then, that it doesn't appear to me that summer ambient temps would have a lot of impact on the internal temp of the motor, and there shouldn't be a need for concern about conventional oil self destructing because of outside temps.
If the coolant temp is relatively constant, then I'd have to assume the internal operating remains relatively constant (higher than the coolant, of course) - which is to say, then, that it doesn't appear to me that summer ambient temps would have a lot of impact on the internal temp of the motor, and there shouldn't be a need for concern about conventional oil self destructing because of outside temps.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: asamek
Interesting!
I have a scanguage II as well, and it reads around 204 summer and winter.
On the other hand, you're a tad bit further north than me...
But even so, I'd hope that the difference wouldn't be enough to cause a failure of the conventional oil.
Interesting that yours doesn't change... I know it's not my temperature sensor because I replaced it in the past month to cure a problem I'm having and it hasn't changed.
Every vehicle that I've owned (well except the Contour too new) has stayed within 1-2 degrees all year round. Many different brands and types of engines. From -30 below to 120 above. Verified by the Scanguage or Autometer mechanical water temp gauges over the decades.
Originally Posted By: asamek
Interesting!
I have a scanguage II as well, and it reads around 204 summer and winter.
On the other hand, you're a tad bit further north than me...
But even so, I'd hope that the difference wouldn't be enough to cause a failure of the conventional oil.
Interesting that yours doesn't change... I know it's not my temperature sensor because I replaced it in the past month to cure a problem I'm having and it hasn't changed.
Every vehicle that I've owned (well except the Contour too new) has stayed within 1-2 degrees all year round. Many different brands and types of engines. From -30 below to 120 above. Verified by the Scanguage or Autometer mechanical water temp gauges over the decades.
Maybe it is the cooling system lubricant I use in the system that creates the difference between the times of year.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Maybe it is the cooling system lubricant I use in the system that creates the difference between the times of year.
My view is that some vehicles simply have oddball cooling systems. Combined with airflow, radiator efficiency, thermostat range, and the wonky Canadian winters you and I both experience, I have seen a few weird ones, but only a few.
All the F-150s and Town Cars I've driven have been fairly steady, regardless of whether it's the hottest day in July or the worst day in January. An LTD I had was a little different. It had trouble heating up in the winter since I over-beefed-up the cooling system thanks to a couple summer issues. It had the A/C rad with a little engine and a giant flex fan direct mounted. Fine in the summer, not so fine in the winter.
With my Audi, if it's a cooler day, say 15 C or below, the temperature gauge stays a bit lower. I'm speaking of highway driving so we have consistent cooling. It doesn't get any lower than it does at 15 C, no matter how cold it gets outside. If the ambient temperature is warmer than that, the operating temperature rises a few degrees. When the outside temperature hits about 25 C, the operating temperature hits a maximum and won't go up more, even if it's 35 C outside.
Fluctuations in temperature can be observed when idling in traffic and the fan kicks in and out.
Maybe it is the cooling system lubricant I use in the system that creates the difference between the times of year.
My view is that some vehicles simply have oddball cooling systems. Combined with airflow, radiator efficiency, thermostat range, and the wonky Canadian winters you and I both experience, I have seen a few weird ones, but only a few.
All the F-150s and Town Cars I've driven have been fairly steady, regardless of whether it's the hottest day in July or the worst day in January. An LTD I had was a little different. It had trouble heating up in the winter since I over-beefed-up the cooling system thanks to a couple summer issues. It had the A/C rad with a little engine and a giant flex fan direct mounted. Fine in the summer, not so fine in the winter.
With my Audi, if it's a cooler day, say 15 C or below, the temperature gauge stays a bit lower. I'm speaking of highway driving so we have consistent cooling. It doesn't get any lower than it does at 15 C, no matter how cold it gets outside. If the ambient temperature is warmer than that, the operating temperature rises a few degrees. When the outside temperature hits about 25 C, the operating temperature hits a maximum and won't go up more, even if it's 35 C outside.
Fluctuations in temperature can be observed when idling in traffic and the fan kicks in and out.
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