Royal Purple Can Do What??

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Ok folks, I have been on the fence on some oil brands for some time to try out. I recieved this brochure from Royal Purple and how and the heck can an oil do this? If it truly does what it says than it must be the Oil King to Metal.

I will post it up here as a link. I scanned it in from the Brochure. Is this a snake oil? Or is it the real deal?

Royal Purple
 
In short....they are touting the benefits of 'moly plating'.

Go to the main page of this site, and read 'moly basics'....it will explain what you are seeing.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
In short....they are touting the benefits of 'moly plating'.

Go to the main page of this site, and read 'moly basics'....it will explain what you are seeing.


Can you provide a link to the "moly" part at RP website. I can't find it anywhere.
 
User testimonials mean diddly squat when it comes to oils and performance.

I've said this before and i'll say it again.

New oil > Old oil

New oil performs better then old dirty oil.

You can dump a high quality synthetic oil after 10,000 miles and pour in the cheapest dinosaur juice you can find and you'll FEEL a difference in performance.


I personally wouldn't want on oil polishing up and scrubbing the heck out of my engine's internal parts to "smooth" them out or what not.
Thats how stuff starts rattling and going bad.
 
from my understanding its not that RP rubs or wears anything out, it Moly Plates the Metal surface. Thus reducing wear.

I am looking into this. Redline has a TON of moly in it to and I was considering that oil as well. If the Moly works as good as some companies say, then it would be worth it.

Do a search in BITOG for "moly plate" and look. Its interesting.
 
Here's an interesting thread on RP, 41 pages long
smile.gif


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1689105&page=1
 
Schaeffer also has high levels of Moly. Cheaper than RP and RL too, I believe. But for the ordinary person it seems to be hard to find.
 
My only experience with RP was with the RP XPR 10/40 or known as Racing 41. I used it because I was running WMI (Water/Meth/inj) at the time and needed an oil formulated for use with alcohol fuels. I ran the oil for about 10K miles.

I never had any problems with the oil other than it seemed my car used a little oil, about 1/4 qt in 3K miles. Well within normal, especially on a car with 380whp. BUT, the WMI kit came out, and so did the Racing 41.

I have now been back on M1 EP for about 6K miles. Using 10/30 EP and it uses NO oil in 3K miles. So I am confused. 40w I lose oil? 30w I don't. I will just chalk it up to the 60whp difference in my car now, vs then. I also noticed ALLOT of lifter tick with RP and None with M1.

Now the Reason why I am considering RP XPR 5/30 is I don't think the RP itself caused the lifter tick, but the thicker viscosity did. Even though, it is a 10/40 vs a 10/30 I wouldn't think it would make that much of a difference at start up but it did. Even when the engine was warm the lifters ticked. M1 no tick.

Not to rule out RP, I think they make a good oil, but the claims are just WAY OUT THERE. Then again, Amsoil does the same thing, Claims, Claims and More Claims. Only "Claims" I believe are ones I see with my own eyes, and on my own account.

Then there is Redline, that is one company that just stays quiet, never makes "claims" and just sells a good oil in the quiet. For some reason I want to give their oil a try too. Only thing I am worried about with Redline is if the Esters will prematurely wear out my Turbo Journal Bearings. The end caps of these bearings are Brass, and being a soft metal, I am kinda worried how Esters will affect it over time.
 
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Originally Posted By: hate2work

RP is good oil, but I think it's over priced for what you get.


+1 It is good...but not that good. If you want moly get honda or toyota oil. Honda oil is fairly cheap, MotorCraft has a good amount of moly too. The new thing is Borates. You can look into them but Pennzoil Ultra has a good amount and is an outstanding oil at a much cheaper price than RP. $26.50 at walmart.
 
I am looking more into the Race oil area. I think my car falls into Race oil category making 200bhp per liter. Not that my M1 EP isn't doing a good job. I am sure it is for DD use, but when I am on the dyno for hours at a time, and eventually back on the AutoX course, I just think that a Race Oil may have more pros vs cons.

Just getting groceries and seeing 5K RPM ones in a blue moon, then other oils may be just fine, but 8K rpm seen often and 26lbs of boost being thrown down your engines throat? mmmm I think the Ultra is going back on the shelf. I have considered the M1 HM though. SL rated, Decent ZDDP, and a high HTHS, but a a rather low Flashpoint is what is keeping me from buing it so far.

I am on the fence on RP XPR 5/30 or Redline 5/30, if not one of those, then the M1 will sufice for DD duties.
 
Me on the Dyno, that day put down 320whp 315wtq on 91 pump gas. Stock Block and Turbo. Not bad for a 4 banger!

Evo Dyno
 
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Ester vs. pao?!
Likely different moly add packs

Short track guys in my area love the Redline Gear oil, while the dragsters in this area love the Royal Purple trans fluids. Neither use much of the engine oils.
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Partial to pao's myself. I'd vote RP.
 
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If you`re using your Evo for mostly racing and dyno,how about a good racing oil like Valvoline VR1 or Pennzoil GT? You can get VR1 in a 30 wt,but the GT only comes in a 50 or 60 wt.
 
Originally Posted By: sr17
Schaeffer also has high levels of Moly. Cheaper than RP and RL too, I believe. But for the ordinary person it seems to be hard to find.
It is a phone call away from a wonderful site sponser
 
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