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I would like to know what thread locker will resist contact with Red Line CV2 grease the best. It should be a medium strength thread locker and it does not have to be very heat resistant.
Best grease-resistant thread locker?
- Thread starter moribundman
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uhhmn, none of them. clean the threads with brake cleaner. tighten them. Let it set . then pile on the grease
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To clarify, just in case I wasn't clear about it: I don't want a thread locker that will cure on greasy threads. I want a thread locker that I can use to prevent a bolt from backing out of a propeller shaft. There will be constant contact with grease after assembly. I can wait for the thread locker to fully cure before assembly.
What about using a dab of RTV in lieu of thread locker? RTV shouldn't be affected by grease. If that's a no-go, how about using a tiny bit of epoxy on the bolt threads?
What about using a dab of RTV in lieu of thread locker? RTV shouldn't be affected by grease. If that's a no-go, how about using a tiny bit of epoxy on the bolt threads?
Go to parts store, buy inner tierod end for mid 90's Escort, after getting in your car (where no one can see you), STEAL the enclosed package of locker. It's better than ANY you can buy. Then take part back for refund.
Best,
Bob
Best,
Bob
I'm pretty sure any locktite will work in this case. Once cured I don't think grease will have any effect on it. It not only locks the threads but seals the threads also.
Yep, any locktite will work fine. Matter of fact, red (242?) locktite is used in some applications as a thread locker- and in other applications as an anaerobic gasket eliminator. Once cures, oil (and thus grease) won't do a thing to it.
Propeller shaft?
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Quote:
Propeller shaft?
Yes. It's for my bicycle's drive unit.
My Audi quattro also has a propellor shaft. Audi calls the drive shaft officially "propellor shaft." (to propel = to drive)
Thanks everyone. I'll just try if the Medium Strength Permatex Gel (blue) that I usually use on my car works for my bike.
Pablo suggested using a self-locking bolt with a nylon patch, which is also a good idea. If I can find the bolt in the proper size, I'll use that, too.
RTV would be VERY slow to cure in the spaces between the threads. It would be like being in a tube again.
Locktite will work on clean threads, and a little JB Weld will work well, for sure. A torch will break the bond if you have to get the part off again.
Locktite will work on clean threads, and a little JB Weld will work well, for sure. A torch will break the bond if you have to get the part off again.
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I realize that RTV will cure slowly. It's only an M6 bolt and wouldn't take more than a few days to cure, I suspect. I just found a 6 month old tube of grey RTV that has fully cured. That tube was still 3/4 full!
PS: It should say "propeller" not "propellor" in my previous post. Not sure what possessed me.
PS: It should say "propeller" not "propellor" in my previous post. Not sure what possessed me.
The proper term for what lay people call a drive shaft on an automobile is Propeller Shaft -- or prop shaft.
I can always tell the trained automotive engineers by the use of this and several other terms.
What most of us call valve covers are Rocker Arm Covers (RAC). There are several other terms, but these are the ones that come to mind at the moment.
I can always tell the trained automotive engineers by the use of this and several other terms.
What most of us call valve covers are Rocker Arm Covers (RAC). There are several other terms, but these are the ones that come to mind at the moment.
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So you are saying Audi got the term technically right? Semantically, there is no difference in meaning between the, in this particular case, synonymous meaning of "to drive" and "to propel."
Do they still make engines with rocker arms?
Loctite's Blue threadlockers come in a variety of grades.
242 - The original medium strength
243 - Surface Insensitive, useful on "as received fasteners"
248 - Stick threadlocker, semi solid, easy to use and clean
2440 - Primerless threadlocker, works fast on Stainless and other "inactive" metals...
242 - The original medium strength
243 - Surface Insensitive, useful on "as received fasteners"
248 - Stick threadlocker, semi solid, easy to use and clean
2440 - Primerless threadlocker, works fast on Stainless and other "inactive" metals...
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