2001 buick century-get rid of dexcool?

[autodummy]

I panicked last year over the horror stories about the Dex cool problems GM had. Soo, I changed out the Dexcool stuff with the regular green stuff. This was done at a Buick Dealer. Now I am concerned that this was the right thing to do. I noticed some traces of Red in the over flow tank. Should I go back to the Dexcool when next replacement time comes or keep with the green stuff? It's been about a year since I did this. The "Quickie Lube place recommends changing back to the Dex Cool (their Brand) ASAP.
What do you recommend?

 

[JHZR2]

if it wasnt flushed properly, dex+green=sludge.

I dont think dex is inherently bad, and if you change it at a reasonable interval, it should be OK.

Id go to the quickie place, and as for a discount on two flushes. Get one done, drive maybe 1000 miles, then do another.

JMH

 

[Matt_S]

I'd go back to Dexcool. IMO, it was unfairly blamed for problems mostly involving intake manifold gaskets or bad radiator caps. Sludging Dexcool is the RESULT of those problems, not the CAUSE. Keep an eye on your coolant level, as everyone should, and you should be fine.

I agree it needs to be very thoroughly flushed, not just drained and filled. I actually switched to green and back in my car. When I went back, I flushed thoroughly with water, added Prestone Super Cleaner, drove 3 - 6 hours, per the instructions, flushed again, then added the Dexcool. I'd suggest you do something similar.

 

[Brett Miller]

I would do another drain and fill with regular green. When the intake gaskets went on my S-10 the mechanic replaced with regular green and a thorough flush. You won't find many GM mechanics with kind words about Dex-Cool.

 

[autodummy]

Thanks for the replies. So far the voting is 2 for changing back to Dexcool, 1 for keeping with the green stuff.
I guess the only unanswered question is; Does the green stuff contribute to improper lubrication of plastic parts, gaskets, etc that was designed to be used with Dexcool? Will there be any Long Term problems if I contunue to use the older Green stuff and just change every 24,000 miles?
The Buick Dealer that changed to the Green stuff last year seemed to be immediately aware of my concerns and offered no caveats about "going Green"

thanks for your inputs!!!

 

[Mickey_M]

quote:

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autodummy:
.... I guess the only unanswered question is; Does the green stuff contribute to improper lubrication of plastic parts, gaskets, etc that was designed to be used with Dexcool? Will there be any Long Term problems if I contunue to use the older Green stuff and just change every 24,000 miles? .....

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Neither really "lubricates" anything.

Dexcool doesn't contain silicates, so it's easier on water pump seals and so on - you might notice the difference in the 80,000 - 120,000 miles range.

You could consider G-05, the stuff Daimler-Chrysler and Ford are using.

It splits the difference between DexCool and Standard Green.

 

[Matt_S]

Mickey's recommendation is the same one I make to people who are hesistant to use Dexcool. You really don't want to go back to the green stuff. It precipites silicates (same as in sand), which coats everything and leads to problems down the road. I really think, though, that Dexcool is not the problem. You'll be fine as long as all your gaskets and seals are good. Just keep an eye on the level.

 

[Ray H]

Refreshing to see descriptions of DEX-COOL other than, "orange death" on this forum for a change. For a cheap (and green, no less...) "DEX-COOL", consider either the Prestone yellow jug extended life or the SuperTech (blue jug) "universal" extended-life antifreeze concentrates. Both are made by Prestone and list the same corrosion inhibitor chemistry as Prestone's own "DEX-COOL Compatible and Fully GM Approved" antifreeze (gray-silver jug, orange dye) that sells for $2.00 more per gallon. What else do they lack besides the orange dye? The GM logo and "DEX-COOL" trademark GM charges Prestone for. One final point: neither the SuperTech nor the Prestone "universal" extended life antifreeze concentrates contain phosphates or silicates.

 

[1 FMF]

I recommend doing some research and getting a feel for which types and brands of coolants are going to be around 5-10 years down the road. Then purchase that kind which will be most available. As it is now, Ford has their own kind and state you must use only Ford type. Same with GM and "death-cool"

and chrysler, honda, etc. And to be able to get those only at the dealer are too expensive (except havoline dexcool).

Last time I looked, it looks like prestone, zerex, peak, supertech, all the brands at auto parts stores and walmarts/targets are touting compatible with everything. Is that the G05 stuff? I wouldn't worry about the little bit of red mixed with your green coolant, dexcool claims some tolerance. Run it and get your money's worth, then when you're ready for the next coolant service, go with one of those "compatible with everything" ones.

I ran dexcool in my 1999 LS1 till 2002 when I sold it, changed it once, in 2001. And just serviced my 2002 LS1 this past summer. I've had no problems with dexcool, but I do believe the coolants coming out now are better than the dexcool, and will probably run that in the future.

 

[outrun]

Switch to G-05.

The coolant infuser exchanger machines are pretty good at getting the block radiator, heater core stuff out.

Try one machine infusion of plain water and Prestone flush and run it 30mins.

Then drain out and infuse with 50:50 G-05 and distilled/deionized water.

I lost my respect for Dexcool and recommend G-05 to pretty much anyone.

G-05 is a definate upgrade over Green as I understand it.

Unless you have G-11 or G-48 in there and then i'd say stay with the same stuff.