Car vs M.C Amsoil.

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Which one is safer? I do use m.c ones but car ones are cheaper...so, if there is no difference I would use car ones BUT I would like your inputs. By the way I drive 2002 R1. Thanks.
 
don't use any oils that are "energy conserving" on the API sunburst. many folks here use 15w-40 diesel oils such as rotella and delo. they are cheap and seem to work well. my bike eats oil so i only run mc specific synthetics such as motul or silkoline.
 
quote:

Originally posted by tom slick:
don't use any oils that are "energy conserving" on the API sunburst. many folks here use 15w-40 diesel oils such as rotella and delo. they are cheap and seem to work well. my bike eats oil so i only run mc specific synthetics such as motul or silkoline.

The Amsoil 10W40 car and motorcycle oil are the same thing in different bottles. I was told this by a Amsoil tech support guy. I don't know about the 20W50, but I would assume the same.
 
I would'nt use car specific oils at all. They do not have enough of what we need for bikes like zinc and phosphorous. They have too much of what we do not need like friction modifiers(moly).

You live in Canada so you have access to Petro-can Duron XL 10/40. This semi synthetic oil is very high quality and Jaso Ma rated for bike wet clutches. It specs out very close to the previous formula of Amsoil 10/40 bike oil. They also make a fine synthetic Duron 5/40 and a Duron semi synthetic 15/40. I'm running these oils in two bikes. Duron XL 10/40 is $3.79 a litre at PC warehouses. I'm not affiliated with Petro-can but I should get a commission for all the oil I've sold for them.
 
The new Amsoil MC oil that was introduced in April is now completely different than their car oil formulation.
 
The new Amsoil MC oils are completely different from their 10w-40/20w-50 (AMO/ARO) car oils. The main advantages include GL-1 gear protection under extreme pressures, vastly better shear stability and improved rust/corrosion protection during off season storage.

These attributes also make them excellent candidates for use in Marine inboard applications....

I'd only recommend the purpose built, MC oils now for these applications - particularly for the very high rpm Japanese and British bikes.

Tooslick
 
quote:

Originally posted by rokky:
I would'nt use car specific oils at all. They do not have enough of what we need for bikes like zinc and phosphorous. They have too much of what we do not need like friction modifiers(moly).

That may be a good blanket statement to keep out of trouble, but AMSOIL has lots of ZDDP & no moly. So, I'm not sure what you're trying to say.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Rotaryphone:
Which one is safer? I do use m.c ones but car ones are cheaper...so, if there is no difference I would use car ones BUT I would like your inputs. By the way I drive 2002 R1. Thanks.

Use HDEOs that are also rated for gas engines and the Allison C-4 spec which is a wet clutch and gear spec. Most diesel engine 15W-40 oils are.
 
I'm not knocking Amsoil. Its great stuff but very pricey here.

My statement was very accurate.

Due to emissions laws and catalytic converters, car oils are limited to what chemicals can be used and how much. Link below with info regarding catalytic converters below from AMSOIL.

http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/articles48.htm
 
XS650 is right on the money.

If a diesel oil is rated Allison C4, Caterpillar Powershift, and/or Clark transmissions, they are fine for bike wet clutches.

Diesel oils do have higher amounts of ash/detergent. This will keep an engine cleaner longer and may promote longer valve life due to the cushioning effect of the ash. On the downside, ash is said to create more engine deposits. Ash which is relevant to detergent levels, is a catch22 situation. Too much detergent/ash - longer drain intervals - cleaner engine but possibly more deposits. Too little detergent/ash - shorter drain intervals and a less clean engine - more deposits. Diesel engine oils are designed for extended drains. I'll go with the increased detergent to combat engine acids, combustion by-products, and moisture.
Shell Rotella products are also well liked by bikers and easily available - not too mention cheap.
 
quote:

Originally posted by rokky:
I would'nt use car specific oils at all. They do not have enough of what we need for bikes like zinc and phosphorous. They have too much of what we do not need like friction modifiers(moly).

How about Mobil 1 15W-50 EP?
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Seems to have a lot of Zinc/Phosphorous and less Moly than M1 bike specific oils.
 
quote:

Originally posted by rokky:

Due to emissions laws and catalytic converters, car oils are limited to what chemicals can be used and how much. Link below with info regarding catalytic converters below from AMSOIL.

http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/articles48.htm


Yes the car oils are 10W-30, 5W-30, or even 0W-30. All of these are "energy conserving oils" and are safe for the catalytic converters. OTOH, these oils do contain less phosphorous.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TooSlick:
The new Amsoil MC oils are completely different from their 10w-40/20w-50 (AMO/ARO) car oils. The main advantages include GL-1 gear protection under extreme pressures, vastly better shear stability and improved rust/corrosion protection during off season storage.

These attributes also make them excellent candidates for use in Marine inboard applications....

I'd only recommend the purpose built, MC oils now for these applications - particularly for the very high rpm Japanese and British bikes.

Tooslick


Well, I just ordered MC oil through local amsoil dealer and forgot to mention NEW mc oil. How would I know if I got new or old type oil? It doesn't really matter to me as old type worked well for me anyway.
 
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