Removing rusted, very stuck brake rotors

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Originally Posted By: supton
Honda M77 I belive The_Critic (or The_Eric?) recommends this stuff. I tried it recently, and found it does work much much better than Sta-Lube.

It is absolutely amazing how it works on brakes in areas with lots of snow. It reduces or eliminates corrosion like nothing else I've tried over the decades. No type of anti-seize even comes close.

Honda's "Moly 77" is a much-less-expensive copy of the true Molykote M77, but I am assured that it works identically to Molykote's version. Honda's part number in Canada is 08798-9010CH. Might be different in the US.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
Where do you use it on the brake system?


M77: Any place where movement occurs. On the pad ears where they slide on the stainless steel shims in particular, although I like to remove the shims and apply paste onto the caliper, as that is a major source of rust and thus (eventual) binding. I don't use it on the pad shims (anti-noise shims) as I have not had reason to do so (doesn't make noise dry), nor on caliper slide pins.
 
I have a handful of nuts-bolts-washers in my tool box for exactly this reason. Interesting thing...
In the past month and a half, I did brakes on my Wife's 09 Kia Sorento, my stepdaughter's Jeep Liberty and my 09 Suburban. The Jeep and the Kia both fought me all the way. I had to pop the rotors off using the bolt trick.
I could not remember the last time I swapped rotors on my truck so I was expecting the worst. The rotors slid off the suburban with nothing more than my fingers.
I guess GM does a better job with whatever coatings they use on their hubs. It was a nice surprise to get a break.
 
acetylene torch between the lugs on the rotor hat till you hear it pop and the rotors pop right off.
 
a Dab of whatever is in the grease gun hits the hub contact points. I dont bother with anything except brake grease for the slides
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
Where do you use it on the brake system?

Anyplace where there is metal-to-metal sliding action.

Sand off all rust first.
 
Eric from south main auto uses an air hammer. He lives in New York and doesn't have a problem at all. Buzzes them loose in about 10 seconds at most.
 
Between the bolt/nut technique and the Molykote 77 referral, this post gets five stars!
Thank you
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I always remove the brake discs shortly after I purchase a new vehicle and burnish anti-seize into the disc/hub interface. Never have a problem with removing the discs, not after twelve years.
 
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