I have a 99 F150 and just replaced the door lock actuators that failed. The locks work great however now the Power Window on the drivers side will go down about 25% then get really slow until you have to help it with your hand and then gets faster at the bottom. The passenger side seems to be affected to a lesser degree. The passenger side drags a bit but works without manual assistance. Any ideas on why this happened right after actuator replacement? I tried not to damage anything while replacing the actuators.
Power Window Woes
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Similar issue on a 90s Crown Vic I had. Lubed the tracks inside the door and that helped quite a bit. Perhaps some material got into the track or the grease was inadvertently removed. I'd open up the door again, inspect the track where it's slow, and grease it properly. Hopefully that's all you will have to do.
Can't wait for the person justifying owning manual Windows chimed in....
Had a 91 full size Bronco that did the same thing, once it got 2/3 down it would slow down to a crawl. Cleaning and lubricating it did the trick but I had to do it every couple years. The problem was lubricating it attracted dirt, I don't think the door sealed very good.
Fast forward a few years I started having issues with my garage door and a guy turned me on to PB blaster garage door lubricant. He said to use it because when it dries it doesn't attract dirt. He said to first clean the tracks with WD and dry it to remove all the WD and then apply the PB. Wow my garage door was like new. The next time I lubed the Bronco door I used this method and it was good for several years up until I sold it.
I'm not familiar with a lot of chemicals but clean it with your choice of cleaner and find something that doesn't dry tacky.
I even started using it on my door hinges when they start to squeak.
Fast forward a few years I started having issues with my garage door and a guy turned me on to PB blaster garage door lubricant. He said to use it because when it dries it doesn't attract dirt. He said to first clean the tracks with WD and dry it to remove all the WD and then apply the PB. Wow my garage door was like new. The next time I lubed the Bronco door I used this method and it was good for several years up until I sold it.
I'm not familiar with a lot of chemicals but clean it with your choice of cleaner and find something that doesn't dry tacky.
I even started using it on my door hinges when they start to squeak.
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Agree, open up and check it out. Make sure you didnt get any wire harnesses in the way of it or something while you were working on it. Plug the window controls back in and try to operate it while watching its operation inside the door.
Originally Posted By: madRiver
Can't wait for the person justifying owning manual Windows chimed in....
That would be me. I've never had a manual crank window fail. I've replaced plenty of power window regulators.
Can't wait for the person justifying owning manual Windows chimed in....
That would be me. I've never had a manual crank window fail. I've replaced plenty of power window regulators.
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: madRiver
Can't wait for the person justifying owning manual Windows chimed in....
That would be me. I've never had a manual crank window fail. I've replaced plenty of power window regulators.
The gears stripped in the crank window on my Mom's Saturn.
Originally Posted By: madRiver
Can't wait for the person justifying owning manual Windows chimed in....
That would be me. I've never had a manual crank window fail. I've replaced plenty of power window regulators.
The gears stripped in the crank window on my Mom's Saturn.
^^^I've seen that happen too in an old Ford Ranger. Usually it's when the ice is still on the window and you need to crack it open to flip a ciggy butt, check the mail, etc. in the winter.
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