270,000 mile Ford Ranger tear down M1 10w30
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Originally Posted By: KingCake
Has anyone here ever seen an engine WITHOUT crosshatch left? Nope.
I worked in a machine shop in my younger days and saw plenty of engines w/o crosshatch marks left. I did a rebuild of an old I6 that had a ridge at the top of the cylinder that had to be close to 1/8" of an inch. This was many years ago but it happened, often in fact.
Has anyone here ever seen an engine WITHOUT crosshatch left? Nope.
I worked in a machine shop in my younger days and saw plenty of engines w/o crosshatch marks left. I did a rebuild of an old I6 that had a ridge at the top of the cylinder that had to be close to 1/8" of an inch. This was many years ago but it happened, often in fact.
Here is one of the cylinder. Look like minimal wear to me.
Here are the ones showing the piston damage. I will take more as I tear it down further.
http://motorcycleproducts.org/Ranger/
Perry
Here are the ones showing the piston damage. I will take more as I tear it down further.
http://motorcycleproducts.org/Ranger/
Perry
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Has anyone here ever seen an engine WITHOUT crosshatch left? Nope.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Has anyone here ever seen an engine WITHOUT crosshatch left? Nope.
I worked in a machine shop in my younger days and saw plenty of engines w/o crosshatch marks left. I did a rebuild of an old I6 that had a ridge at the top of the cylinder that had to be close to 1/8" of an inch. This was many years ago but it happened, often in fact.
Several, in fact. A automotive machine shop that I do welding work for tears down and rebuilds engines. You see plenty there.
Has anyone here ever seen an engine WITHOUT crosshatch left? Nope.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Has anyone here ever seen an engine WITHOUT crosshatch left? Nope.
I worked in a machine shop in my younger days and saw plenty of engines w/o crosshatch marks left. I did a rebuild of an old I6 that had a ridge at the top of the cylinder that had to be close to 1/8" of an inch. This was many years ago but it happened, often in fact.
Several, in fact. A automotive machine shop that I do welding work for tears down and rebuilds engines. You see plenty there.
Perry, at this point I'd just throw a used piston in it and let it eat. Eyeball the rod and check specs. After that, maybe a lower mileage junkyard motor would be the cheapest thing. Just throwing it out there. That piston was definitely FUBAR.
Yeah, I'm with a decent set of used pistons, Ball Hone the cylinders with kerosene and new Hastings rings. As long as you are there, new rod and main bearing inserts would be a good thing (std), timing set, and you'll be good to go into the sunset
Personally, I'd have the head into a good machine shop for a premium valve job (5-angle) as that aids quit a bit in low lift flow, so a bit more TQ in the lower revs
Personally, I'd have the head into a good machine shop for a premium valve job (5-angle) as that aids quit a bit in low lift flow, so a bit more TQ in the lower revs
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Every modern engine will show crosshatch at 300-400K if maintained with the cheapest of SN oils.
At 10K OCI? Every modern engine?
10K is standard now
Maybe where you come from, but out here even the State mandates 6K changes. I do 5K. None of my friends or business acquaintances do anything longer than 7,500 ...
As far as seeing engines w/o cross hatch, I've seen a lot of them with 1/16 ridge, 0.040 taper, etc.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Every modern engine will show crosshatch at 300-400K if maintained with the cheapest of SN oils.
At 10K OCI? Every modern engine?
10K is standard now
Maybe where you come from, but out here even the State mandates 6K changes. I do 5K. None of my friends or business acquaintances do anything longer than 7,500 ...
As far as seeing engines w/o cross hatch, I've seen a lot of them with 1/16 ridge, 0.040 taper, etc.
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Every modern engine will show crosshatch at 300-400K if maintained with the cheapest of SN oils.
At 10K OCI? Every modern engine?
10K is standard now
Maybe where you come from, but out here even the State mandates 6K changes. I do 5K. None of my friends or business acquaintances do anything longer than 7,500 ...
As far as seeing engines w/o cross hatch, I've seen a lot of them with 1/16 ridge, 0.040 taper, etc.
I believe you are confused.
http://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/UsedOil/OilChange/
There is no mandate it is just an effort to educated the public that 3K OCI's are a thing of the past. Even in the 50's Chrysler had a OCI recommendation of 5K. The biggest opposition to this ad campaign is jiffy lube and dealerships. I have even read an article were a Chrysler service manager stated that 3.5K should be the recommended interval because it is normal for a new vehicle to consume 1 or 2 quarts of oil in 2,000 miles.
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: KingCake
Every modern engine will show crosshatch at 300-400K if maintained with the cheapest of SN oils.
At 10K OCI? Every modern engine?
10K is standard now
Maybe where you come from, but out here even the State mandates 6K changes. I do 5K. None of my friends or business acquaintances do anything longer than 7,500 ...
As far as seeing engines w/o cross hatch, I've seen a lot of them with 1/16 ridge, 0.040 taper, etc.
I believe you are confused.
http://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/UsedOil/OilChange/
There is no mandate it is just an effort to educated the public that 3K OCI's are a thing of the past. Even in the 50's Chrysler had a OCI recommendation of 5K. The biggest opposition to this ad campaign is jiffy lube and dealerships. I have even read an article were a Chrysler service manager stated that 3.5K should be the recommended interval because it is normal for a new vehicle to consume 1 or 2 quarts of oil in 2,000 miles.
Probably going to put in new pistons and rings. Might do the bearings if they look worn at all. Will most likely do the main seals. The head does need some work. The width on the exhaust valve seats are like .14". I think that is about twice normal. Intake seats are a little wide but look ok to me. I think it will at least need the exhaust seats reground and new exhaust valves. Thinking about doing it myself if I can find the tools relatively cheap. Good machine shops are hard to find. Don't want to pay then have to redo it anyway.
Perry
Perry
M1 is a waste of money. My 03 ranger with the duratec 2.3 still runs perfect.Engine has never been opened up. Doesn't burn or leak any oil. Turned 312,000 miles today. Supertech oil and supertech filters every 5,000 miles all its life until the past 3 years it started getting $1 a quart autozone clearance oil and purolator classic filters. Never spent over $10 dollars on any oil change for this truck including filter. Just the cheapest four quarts of oil and a cheap filter. Still drive it 80 miles daily and would drive it anywhere without hesitation. Any sn oil these days will do just as good with regular oci's.
Here are some valve train pics. Exhaust seat looks toast. I was not able to measure any wear on the valve stem with my calipers.
Contact area is way too wide. Even hardened seats recede into head in time.
Minor Pitting but it will lap out.
Barely Scuffed.
This truck was driven about half country roads and half highway miles at 80-85 MPH. It was driven about 70 miles a day round trip with my foot on the floor most of the time. This engine was run hard. For years this truck has been running bad due to vacuum leaks etc. I finally got tired and pulled the manifold and found the vapor recovery line full of holes. I had to raw hide the truck to get it to run at all. This is when the screw fell into the intake. Compression was about 160psi on all cylinders before tear down even the bad cylinder. I will most likely remove the EGR system.
Perry
Contact area is way too wide. Even hardened seats recede into head in time.
Minor Pitting but it will lap out.
Barely Scuffed.
This truck was driven about half country roads and half highway miles at 80-85 MPH. It was driven about 70 miles a day round trip with my foot on the floor most of the time. This engine was run hard. For years this truck has been running bad due to vacuum leaks etc. I finally got tired and pulled the manifold and found the vapor recovery line full of holes. I had to raw hide the truck to get it to run at all. This is when the screw fell into the intake. Compression was about 160psi on all cylinders before tear down even the bad cylinder. I will most likely remove the EGR system.
Perry
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Looks good.
Originally Posted By: dave1251
I believe you are confused.
http://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/UsedOil/OilChange/
There is no mandate it is just an effort to educated the public that 3K OCI's are a thing of the past. Even in the 50's Chrysler had a OCI recommendation of 5K. The biggest opposition to this ad campaign is jiffy lube and dealerships. I have even read an article were a Chrysler service manager stated that 3.5K should be the recommended interval because it is normal for a new vehicle to consume 1 or 2 quarts of oil in 2,000 miles.
My dad recently bought an 07 Ion for my younger brother and the Chevy dealer's window sticker was for 5000 miles and I was pleasantly surprised by that. I would have thought of all places dealers will try and get you in more and more often.
I believe you are confused.
http://www.calrecycle.ca.gov/UsedOil/OilChange/
There is no mandate it is just an effort to educated the public that 3K OCI's are a thing of the past. Even in the 50's Chrysler had a OCI recommendation of 5K. The biggest opposition to this ad campaign is jiffy lube and dealerships. I have even read an article were a Chrysler service manager stated that 3.5K should be the recommended interval because it is normal for a new vehicle to consume 1 or 2 quarts of oil in 2,000 miles.
My dad recently bought an 07 Ion for my younger brother and the Chevy dealer's window sticker was for 5000 miles and I was pleasantly surprised by that. I would have thought of all places dealers will try and get you in more and more often.
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That head looks excellent.
Originally Posted By: cpsychoholic
M1 is a waste of money. My 03 ranger with the duratec 2.3 still runs perfect.Engine has never been opened up. Doesn't burn or leak any oil. Turned 312,000 miles today. Supertech oil and supertech filters every 5,000 miles all its life until the past 3 years it started getting $1 a quart autozone clearance oil and purolator classic filters. Never spent over $10 dollars on any oil change for this truck including filter. Just the cheapest four quarts of oil and a cheap filter. Still drive it 80 miles daily and would drive it anywhere without hesitation. Any sn oil these days will do just as good with regular oci's.
M1 is a waste of money. My 03 ranger with the duratec 2.3 still runs perfect.Engine has never been opened up. Doesn't burn or leak any oil. Turned 312,000 miles today. Supertech oil and supertech filters every 5,000 miles all its life until the past 3 years it started getting $1 a quart autozone clearance oil and purolator classic filters. Never spent over $10 dollars on any oil change for this truck including filter. Just the cheapest four quarts of oil and a cheap filter. Still drive it 80 miles daily and would drive it anywhere without hesitation. Any sn oil these days will do just as good with regular oci's.
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That valve train is spotless!
This engine is under no real stress other than the drivers foot
Throw a turbo on there and jack up the fuel flow and see what it does with that maintenance regimen ...
Nice that it'll be able to be put back together with minimal hassle and parts
But that ain't the 2.3 220HP turbo motor in my Saab ... Different oil for different jobs ...
Throw a turbo on there and jack up the fuel flow and see what it does with that maintenance regimen ...
Nice that it'll be able to be put back together with minimal hassle and parts
But that ain't the 2.3 220HP turbo motor in my Saab ... Different oil for different jobs ...
Originally Posted By: cpsychoholic
M1 is a waste of money. My 03 ranger with the duratec 2.3 still runs perfect.Engine has never been opened up. Doesn't burn or leak any oil. Turned 312,000 miles today. Supertech oil and supertech filters every 5,000 miles all its life until the past 3 years it started getting $1 a quart autozone clearance oil and purolator classic filters. Never spent over $10 dollars on any oil change for this truck including filter. Just the cheapest four quarts of oil and a cheap filter. Still drive it 80 miles daily and would drive it anywhere without hesitation. Any sn oil these days will do just as good with regular oci's.
Why is M1 a waste of money as you say? You do 5K OCIs with dino. I did 10K OCIs with M1 10-30 in my 3.0 Ranger with 354K.
M1 is a waste of money. My 03 ranger with the duratec 2.3 still runs perfect.Engine has never been opened up. Doesn't burn or leak any oil. Turned 312,000 miles today. Supertech oil and supertech filters every 5,000 miles all its life until the past 3 years it started getting $1 a quart autozone clearance oil and purolator classic filters. Never spent over $10 dollars on any oil change for this truck including filter. Just the cheapest four quarts of oil and a cheap filter. Still drive it 80 miles daily and would drive it anywhere without hesitation. Any sn oil these days will do just as good with regular oci's.
Why is M1 a waste of money as you say? You do 5K OCIs with dino. I did 10K OCIs with M1 10-30 in my 3.0 Ranger with 354K.
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