I'm telling you, this guy is making up every inch of this.
Struggling with 2003 Camry update
- Thread starter engineer20
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The camry has 167k miles.
I'm not making this stuff up, if you see earlier, about a year or so ago, i created a thread on the wheel bearing, it was never replaced, and I've always thought I"ve had a wheel bearing issue.
Went to the parts stores today, asked autozone about exhaust maintenance (i asked and am wondering because i hear a rattle from the muffler when the car is running, so i worry that will go out soon).
anyways, he said, you can keep your exhaust system greased to prevent rust (ppl may say you're crazy, but it will prevent rust) as well as changing some of those gaskets.
all 3 parts stores, autozone, advance, and oreilly carried walker muffler/tailpipe/exhause pipe/cat converter, etc, is walker a good brand? it's much cheaper than the oem which the toyota dealership sells
i'm not making this up. i still haven't done an alignment, i'll do so this spring, i plan to replac these after the winter, and the guy at autozone agreed in that if you could wait, hold off on it, do it in the spring, so the salt won't affect it/cause it to rust, and in the fall ,before winter, regrease these parts, and you should be all set and they'll be rustproofed, he was the parts manager and mentioned in about a month or so, he'll put the car up on a lift and give it a good clean.
so yes, there is exhaust maintenance, not much you can do, but you could grease it.
i can send in more pictures as evidence, and there are metric cotter pins at ace hardware
I'm not making this stuff up, if you see earlier, about a year or so ago, i created a thread on the wheel bearing, it was never replaced, and I've always thought I"ve had a wheel bearing issue.
Went to the parts stores today, asked autozone about exhaust maintenance (i asked and am wondering because i hear a rattle from the muffler when the car is running, so i worry that will go out soon).
anyways, he said, you can keep your exhaust system greased to prevent rust (ppl may say you're crazy, but it will prevent rust) as well as changing some of those gaskets.
all 3 parts stores, autozone, advance, and oreilly carried walker muffler/tailpipe/exhause pipe/cat converter, etc, is walker a good brand? it's much cheaper than the oem which the toyota dealership sells
i'm not making this up. i still haven't done an alignment, i'll do so this spring, i plan to replac these after the winter, and the guy at autozone agreed in that if you could wait, hold off on it, do it in the spring, so the salt won't affect it/cause it to rust, and in the fall ,before winter, regrease these parts, and you should be all set and they'll be rustproofed, he was the parts manager and mentioned in about a month or so, he'll put the car up on a lift and give it a good clean.
so yes, there is exhaust maintenance, not much you can do, but you could grease it.
i can send in more pictures as evidence, and there are metric cotter pins at ace hardware
can bad bushings cause bad links? last year, it was just bad bushings, the dealer said, now the dealer, belle tire, etc, say it's bad links and bushings in the rear, as well as a front link
will it cause the sway bar to go bad if you don't replace it, as the sway bar is much harder to replace, though the oem sway bar isn't that much more expensive
i bought mooogs, are moog sway bars good or comparable to oem? heard they needed to be greased, i just bought a grease gun for this purpose
heard that the pistol grip one is better than the lever grip one which is cheaper, the pistol grip averages 19.99 at auto parts stores, and i saw one for 14.99 at walmart, but meijer had a clearnace on it, a tube of 14.1 oz grease (vs the can which is 16 oz, which is better, the tube or the can with the grease?)
and i saw most gresase said gm, chrylser, and japanese cars used one which is lithium based, so use that for the toyota, right, wheraes another kind if moly based and is for ford products and only ford, so i guess i can use the gm/chrysler/toyota one for the camry, and get the ford kind/moly based one for the ford? H freight also sells the grease tubes, there's also mini grease guns, but its' hard to come across mini grease tubes, so i decided to go with the regular grease gun.
got a pistol grip one for only 12 dollars on sale (25% off clearance, normally 16 something).
it's a powerbilt, is powerbilt a decent brand?
how are the harbor freight grease guns? i think it's like 19.99 for the pistol grip, so 16 dollars after a 20% sale (they're having more this month, had one this weekend) but the meijer 12 dollar one is still cheaper, is it any good? and i saw mobil 1 grease was sold in a lot of places. i got the meijer branded grease for 2.99 in a tube, it was on clearance and is usually 3.99 (forgot the brand, i think it was coastal) is coastal grease any good? and it'd work for stab links as well as for a wheel bearing, as a wheel bearing needs to be greased too.
anyways, how are the harbor freight greases, how is coastal for grease, and how is mobil 1, and use the moly (h freight labels by chemical, not by car manufacturer, whereas everywhere else like store brand as well as valvoline (popular and sold everywhere) goes by brand, and mentions material, the gm/japanese one is lithium, and the ford is moly). any comparisons for grease brand? thanks.
and the grease in those cans (or containers) how are those comapred to the tubes you use for the grease gun,and if a grease gun only takes tubes, why do they sell them in those can/containers, and what are those for? Thanks.
will it cause the sway bar to go bad if you don't replace it, as the sway bar is much harder to replace, though the oem sway bar isn't that much more expensive
i bought mooogs, are moog sway bars good or comparable to oem? heard they needed to be greased, i just bought a grease gun for this purpose
heard that the pistol grip one is better than the lever grip one which is cheaper, the pistol grip averages 19.99 at auto parts stores, and i saw one for 14.99 at walmart, but meijer had a clearnace on it, a tube of 14.1 oz grease (vs the can which is 16 oz, which is better, the tube or the can with the grease?)
and i saw most gresase said gm, chrylser, and japanese cars used one which is lithium based, so use that for the toyota, right, wheraes another kind if moly based and is for ford products and only ford, so i guess i can use the gm/chrysler/toyota one for the camry, and get the ford kind/moly based one for the ford? H freight also sells the grease tubes, there's also mini grease guns, but its' hard to come across mini grease tubes, so i decided to go with the regular grease gun.
got a pistol grip one for only 12 dollars on sale (25% off clearance, normally 16 something).
it's a powerbilt, is powerbilt a decent brand?
how are the harbor freight grease guns? i think it's like 19.99 for the pistol grip, so 16 dollars after a 20% sale (they're having more this month, had one this weekend) but the meijer 12 dollar one is still cheaper, is it any good? and i saw mobil 1 grease was sold in a lot of places. i got the meijer branded grease for 2.99 in a tube, it was on clearance and is usually 3.99 (forgot the brand, i think it was coastal) is coastal grease any good? and it'd work for stab links as well as for a wheel bearing, as a wheel bearing needs to be greased too.
anyways, how are the harbor freight greases, how is coastal for grease, and how is mobil 1, and use the moly (h freight labels by chemical, not by car manufacturer, whereas everywhere else like store brand as well as valvoline (popular and sold everywhere) goes by brand, and mentions material, the gm/japanese one is lithium, and the ford is moly). any comparisons for grease brand? thanks.
and the grease in those cans (or containers) how are those comapred to the tubes you use for the grease gun,and if a grease gun only takes tubes, why do they sell them in those can/containers, and what are those for? Thanks.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
so yes, there is exhaust maintenance, not much you can do, but you could grease it.
In all my years of car repair, I've never heard of greasing an exhaust system. What happens when it gets hot?
Are you going to use the same grease that you plan on using on your sway bar links?
so yes, there is exhaust maintenance, not much you can do, but you could grease it.
In all my years of car repair, I've never heard of greasing an exhaust system. What happens when it gets hot?
Are you going to use the same grease that you plan on using on your sway bar links?
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
engineer20:
This is what I highly suggest you do-
1. Sell the Camry. It has a KBB value of $2500
2. Buy a brand new 2016 Mitsubishi Mirage - it even gets 44 mpg
3. Put down the $2500 on the Mirage
The monthly payment on a 2016 Mitsubishi Mirage after your $2500 down payment, is $147 a month for 60 months.
This Camry is DEFINITELY costing you over $147 a month, a brand new car should have no issues for several years.
The Mirage has a 10 year/100,000 mile warranty.
This is what I highly suggest you do-
1. Sell the Camry. It has a KBB value of $2500
2. Buy a brand new 2016 Mitsubishi Mirage - it even gets 44 mpg
3. Put down the $2500 on the Mirage
The monthly payment on a 2016 Mitsubishi Mirage after your $2500 down payment, is $147 a month for 60 months.
This Camry is DEFINITELY costing you over $147 a month, a brand new car should have no issues for several years.
The Mirage has a 10 year/100,000 mile warranty.
The best advice ^^^^^ E20 or anyone will ever get!!!!!
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Thanks for the advice, but only if you told me earlier!
I've already put a lot of monmey in the camry. At this point, there's less to repair than what I've already repaired.
Maybe a year ago, before i put new tires, a new battery, starter, water pump, etc (all these parts) it'd be a good option, but after already putting all this money in, doesn't it make sense to continue and finish the reapirs then have a solid car for several years, as these new parts will be able to get me thru a few years, then buy a new(ish) vehicle then? I might buy slightly used, as a slightly used, but new(ish) car, is much cheaper and you don't pay for the depreciation and it's still under warranty and pretty much problem free.
I've already put a lot of monmey in the camry. At this point, there's less to repair than what I've already repaired.
Maybe a year ago, before i put new tires, a new battery, starter, water pump, etc (all these parts) it'd be a good option, but after already putting all this money in, doesn't it make sense to continue and finish the reapirs then have a solid car for several years, as these new parts will be able to get me thru a few years, then buy a new(ish) vehicle then? I might buy slightly used, as a slightly used, but new(ish) car, is much cheaper and you don't pay for the depreciation and it's still under warranty and pretty much problem free.
how's red grease, i just remembered, and lucas makes grease too. is valvoline a good "best bet?" And mobil 1 is sold everywhere, but it seems their grease isn't worth it, overpriced, and not that much better, i got a bottle of discounted coastal grease from meijer for 2.99, is that any good? why does gm and japanese and chrysler use the same grease, but fords use their own special one, moly based? And what if you use the gm/chrys/japanese grease on a ford? and vice versa, moly based grease on a toyota? Is red grease better and can be used, and how's lucas grease? Thansk.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
Thanks for the advice, but only if you told me earlier!
I've already put a lot of money in the camry.
To someone who hasn't been to college, this is known as "good money after bad". In an engineering economics class, I learned it is also called the "sunk cost fallacy".
Either way, thinking like E20 did in that post is illogical and will lead to wasting a lot of money. You need to decide based on what path will cost the least in the future (e.g. new car where you only need to make the payments), regardless of what you have spent in the past. That money is gone.
Thanks for the advice, but only if you told me earlier!
I've already put a lot of money in the camry.
To someone who hasn't been to college, this is known as "good money after bad". In an engineering economics class, I learned it is also called the "sunk cost fallacy".
Either way, thinking like E20 did in that post is illogical and will lead to wasting a lot of money. You need to decide based on what path will cost the least in the future (e.g. new car where you only need to make the payments), regardless of what you have spent in the past. That money is gone.
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: engineer20
so yes, there is exhaust maintenance, not much you can do, but you could grease it.
In all my years of car repair, I've never heard of greasing an exhaust system. What happens when it gets hot?
Are you going to use the same grease that you plan on using on your sway bar links?
You don't get out much, dishdude.
Most commercial food preparation places grease their exhaust systems. In fact, they grease it so much they have to collect the excess and dispose of it.
Seriously, E20, ever heard of a grease fire?
Originally Posted By: engineer20
so yes, there is exhaust maintenance, not much you can do, but you could grease it.
In all my years of car repair, I've never heard of greasing an exhaust system. What happens when it gets hot?
Are you going to use the same grease that you plan on using on your sway bar links?
You don't get out much, dishdude.
Most commercial food preparation places grease their exhaust systems. In fact, they grease it so much they have to collect the excess and dispose of it.
Seriously, E20, ever heard of a grease fire?
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Dude, why are your posts mini-essays with questions embedded all over the place? You need to be considerate of the reader here. It's migraine-inducing trying to follow all your novels. And seriously, it's become painfully obvious your cars need a lot of help and the work is way beyond your skill level. At first I tried giving you the benefit of the doubt but it's time you realized your limitations and ponied up the cash to have a pro fix your cars right the first time.
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Originally Posted By: mclasser
Dude, why are your posts mini-essays with questions embedded all over the place? You need to be considerate of the reader here. It's migraine-inducing to follow all your novels. And seriously, it's become painfully obvious your cars need a lot of help and the work is way beyond your skill level. At first I tried giving you the benefit of the doubt but it's time you realized your limitations and ponied up the cash to have a pro fix your cars right the first time.
this is why I don't buy that e20 is an engineer. his writing skills, including his perfect grammar, punctuation, and spelling, would tell me that he is an English teacher -- likely at the university level.since he is in Michigan, I would guess that he teaches an advanced English course at u of m, or mich. state.
just an opinion, of course.
e20 -- everyone knows that you cannot use ford grease on an Asian product's muffler bearings.lord help us.
as a couple have said -- get a new vehicle. one gave details on a new car, and you would actually be saving money, by not putting more cash into a car that is worth pocket money.
we're all on to your game. but, keep posting, as your posts are even more entertaining than those of 'prone.
have a good day.
Dude, why are your posts mini-essays with questions embedded all over the place? You need to be considerate of the reader here. It's migraine-inducing to follow all your novels. And seriously, it's become painfully obvious your cars need a lot of help and the work is way beyond your skill level. At first I tried giving you the benefit of the doubt but it's time you realized your limitations and ponied up the cash to have a pro fix your cars right the first time.
this is why I don't buy that e20 is an engineer. his writing skills, including his perfect grammar, punctuation, and spelling, would tell me that he is an English teacher -- likely at the university level.since he is in Michigan, I would guess that he teaches an advanced English course at u of m, or mich. state.
just an opinion, of course.
e20 -- everyone knows that you cannot use ford grease on an Asian product's muffler bearings.lord help us.
as a couple have said -- get a new vehicle. one gave details on a new car, and you would actually be saving money, by not putting more cash into a car that is worth pocket money.
we're all on to your game. but, keep posting, as your posts are even more entertaining than those of 'prone.
have a good day.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: engineer20
Thanks for the advice, but only if you told me earlier!
I've already put a lot of monmey in the camry. At this point, there's less to repair than what I've already repaired.
Maybe a year ago, before i put new tires, a new battery, starter, water pump, etc (all these parts) it'd be a good option, but after already putting all this money in, doesn't it make sense to continue and finish the reapirs then have a solid car for several years, as these new parts will be able to get me thru a few years, then buy a new(ish) vehicle then? I might buy slightly used, as a slightly used, but new(ish) car, is much cheaper and you don't pay for the depreciation and it's still under warranty and pretty much problem free.
No, it's still a good time to do it.
The thing is, the work will never end on your car. You aren't going to get to a point to where the car is "done" and it'll be good to go for a few years, it's a never ending vicious cycle.
By the time you buy oil pans, wheel bearings, have the exhaust replaced, get more new tires, replace the struts, and all of the other stuff, you'll be WAY ahead financially. That's like $1500 in parts I just listed above, about a year's worth of payments. Then what's next year?
Dude, $147 a month. Come on, that's nothing. Plus that's for a 5 year loan, you could go with a 6 year loan for less.
Think of it this way- if you drive the Mirage for 5 years, and it's worth $5000 in 5 years, you could trade it in on another one and have a $100 a month payment for a new one and have a full warranty again, you'll never need to do repairs.
Thanks for the advice, but only if you told me earlier!
I've already put a lot of monmey in the camry. At this point, there's less to repair than what I've already repaired.
Maybe a year ago, before i put new tires, a new battery, starter, water pump, etc (all these parts) it'd be a good option, but after already putting all this money in, doesn't it make sense to continue and finish the reapirs then have a solid car for several years, as these new parts will be able to get me thru a few years, then buy a new(ish) vehicle then? I might buy slightly used, as a slightly used, but new(ish) car, is much cheaper and you don't pay for the depreciation and it's still under warranty and pretty much problem free.
No, it's still a good time to do it.
The thing is, the work will never end on your car. You aren't going to get to a point to where the car is "done" and it'll be good to go for a few years, it's a never ending vicious cycle.
By the time you buy oil pans, wheel bearings, have the exhaust replaced, get more new tires, replace the struts, and all of the other stuff, you'll be WAY ahead financially. That's like $1500 in parts I just listed above, about a year's worth of payments. Then what's next year?
Dude, $147 a month. Come on, that's nothing. Plus that's for a 5 year loan, you could go with a 6 year loan for less.
Think of it this way- if you drive the Mirage for 5 years, and it's worth $5000 in 5 years, you could trade it in on another one and have a $100 a month payment for a new one and have a full warranty again, you'll never need to do repairs.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
but i persevered and finished an engineering degree, and eventually I was able to become an engineer,
Nice fairy tale.. I didn't know Trolling was an engineering field.
Seriously just taking a few of the background classes and you would know all the answers to your terrible questions.
but i persevered and finished an engineering degree, and eventually I was able to become an engineer,
Nice fairy tale.. I didn't know Trolling was an engineering field.
Seriously just taking a few of the background classes and you would know all the answers to your terrible questions.
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If I were you,I'd buy the Mirage and park the Camry with a "for sale" sign on it saying "make cash offer" and put the cash towards the principal of the Mirage.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
If I were you,I'd buy the Mirage and park the Camry with a "for sale" sign on it saying "make cash offer" and put the cash towards the principal of the Mirage.
This works too. The payment on the full $9995 of the Mirage is $191 per month. The $2500 for the Camry would make the payment for 13 months.
To be honest, if I were looking for a new car, I'd really consider the Mirage
If I were you,I'd buy the Mirage and park the Camry with a "for sale" sign on it saying "make cash offer" and put the cash towards the principal of the Mirage.
This works too. The payment on the full $9995 of the Mirage is $191 per month. The $2500 for the Camry would make the payment for 13 months.
To be honest, if I were looking for a new car, I'd really consider the Mirage
- Joined
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- Messages
- 29,558
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
If I were you,I'd buy the Mirage and park the Camry with a "for sale" sign on it saying "make cash offer" and put the cash towards the principal of the Mirage.
This works too. The payment on the full $9995 of the Mirage is $191 per month. The $2500 for the Camry would make the payment for 13 months.
To be honest, if I were looking for a new car, I'd really consider the Mirage
I really like that Mirage you posted! Looks GREAT in white!! Even if E20 just gave away the Camry and bought the Mirage,he'd still be way ahead of the game imo.
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
If I were you,I'd buy the Mirage and park the Camry with a "for sale" sign on it saying "make cash offer" and put the cash towards the principal of the Mirage.
This works too. The payment on the full $9995 of the Mirage is $191 per month. The $2500 for the Camry would make the payment for 13 months.
To be honest, if I were looking for a new car, I'd really consider the Mirage
I really like that Mirage you posted! Looks GREAT in white!! Even if E20 just gave away the Camry and bought the Mirage,he'd still be way ahead of the game imo.
Get a lime green Mirage that way you'll be less likely to be clobbered in it. Since the color stands out so much. You might get 2000-2500 for the Camry as a trade-in. There should be a pretty good supply of them since gas prices are so low right now.
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