That forum got out of hand, I was banned for a month, and I posted a lot of Toyota Nation.
In the meantime, the oil pan drain plug got messed up, I changed the pan myself and did it successfully, just with a u joint and 1/4drive ratchet and a 6 inch 1/4 drive extension, it wasn't that bad and a utility knife. I struggled with it but that was amongst the easiest of the reapirs.
i did the water pump/serp belt over christmas break, took several days, and struggled, but I got to it successfully.
The ball joint, I did but was confused about the locknut, the nylon locknut, so I got another ball joint (will defect out the one I bought), the moog from advanced auto, and will redo the ball joint procesure this weekend, the toyota dealer I had it inspected at yesterday said the ball joint nut isn't on there propertly, messsing up the ball joint, and therefore needs to be redone. thanksfully, i have aanother ball joint.
As for the taurus, the caliper was still leaking after being remanned, the caliper place, quality caliper, claimed it was the hose, I went back there like 3 times, in like 1 month. I just gave up, and decided to buy a remanned advanced auto carquest wearever for 70.99, but I used speedperks and got it for 50.99 new brakcet and all. I got that a few days ago and plan to install it on the taurus this weekend.
i also got a dealership brake hose, wanted 20.45 for it, I negotiated and got it for 12 dollars becasue though it's new, it says it was manufactured in 2013, and I said it was old and they guy just gave it to me.
I'll install the new caliper and new brake hose (will save the old brake hose just in case) and will see how things go and after this weekend, hopefully all my car issues will be resolved.
I saw the leak coming from the spring part of the caliper, how'd i know if it was the caliper or the hose? hopefully this new equipment I bought will work, I'll turn the old caliper which i had remanned in to get the core back, so i basically wasted 35 dollars on remanning it, as well as the many trips I took there which is far away from where I live.
And I never was trolling, hopefully I'll be all set for now, but I plan to do the taurus serp belt when the weather is better this spring as well as its spark plugs, and then I'll figure out the timing chain leak for the camry, as well as the trans leak. The dealer inspection also noticed the trans case leak but said it's no big deal. a shop wnats 1300 to do it, to reseal it, he said no rebuild necessary.
i did a drain and fill when I did my ball joint job on the trans fluid, to see if that'd help, but it's still leaking, so i'm thinking about changing the filter and gasket and droopping the pan next time, but there are 3 bolts that are hard to get to, so i'm not too sure how to do that as of now, but i've solved the major problems, then i'll continue to work on more issues as the weather gets better.
The dealership didnt' mention struts, but would it hurt if I were to change the struts? when doing the ball joints, i accidentally figured out how to do the struts, essentially by removing the steering knuckle (unnecessary) but not sure about the rears yet, then i'll do an alignment after the struts.
my front tires alre going bad though they're not too terribly old, but by rears are still alright, apparently when you touch the tie rods, you change the alignment, not sure about that, but I did see the outer tie rod when I worked on the ball joint.
Still, i'm confused about the nylon locknut and hope to succeed this time, I heard you dont' press it in but you can use a jack to push the ball joint in, and then instsall the nut and you shoudl be good, I might have crossthreaded the nut is what the parts store people believed.
In the meantime, the oil pan drain plug got messed up, I changed the pan myself and did it successfully, just with a u joint and 1/4drive ratchet and a 6 inch 1/4 drive extension, it wasn't that bad and a utility knife. I struggled with it but that was amongst the easiest of the reapirs.
i did the water pump/serp belt over christmas break, took several days, and struggled, but I got to it successfully.
The ball joint, I did but was confused about the locknut, the nylon locknut, so I got another ball joint (will defect out the one I bought), the moog from advanced auto, and will redo the ball joint procesure this weekend, the toyota dealer I had it inspected at yesterday said the ball joint nut isn't on there propertly, messsing up the ball joint, and therefore needs to be redone. thanksfully, i have aanother ball joint.
As for the taurus, the caliper was still leaking after being remanned, the caliper place, quality caliper, claimed it was the hose, I went back there like 3 times, in like 1 month. I just gave up, and decided to buy a remanned advanced auto carquest wearever for 70.99, but I used speedperks and got it for 50.99 new brakcet and all. I got that a few days ago and plan to install it on the taurus this weekend.
i also got a dealership brake hose, wanted 20.45 for it, I negotiated and got it for 12 dollars becasue though it's new, it says it was manufactured in 2013, and I said it was old and they guy just gave it to me.
I'll install the new caliper and new brake hose (will save the old brake hose just in case) and will see how things go and after this weekend, hopefully all my car issues will be resolved.
I saw the leak coming from the spring part of the caliper, how'd i know if it was the caliper or the hose? hopefully this new equipment I bought will work, I'll turn the old caliper which i had remanned in to get the core back, so i basically wasted 35 dollars on remanning it, as well as the many trips I took there which is far away from where I live.
And I never was trolling, hopefully I'll be all set for now, but I plan to do the taurus serp belt when the weather is better this spring as well as its spark plugs, and then I'll figure out the timing chain leak for the camry, as well as the trans leak. The dealer inspection also noticed the trans case leak but said it's no big deal. a shop wnats 1300 to do it, to reseal it, he said no rebuild necessary.
i did a drain and fill when I did my ball joint job on the trans fluid, to see if that'd help, but it's still leaking, so i'm thinking about changing the filter and gasket and droopping the pan next time, but there are 3 bolts that are hard to get to, so i'm not too sure how to do that as of now, but i've solved the major problems, then i'll continue to work on more issues as the weather gets better.
The dealership didnt' mention struts, but would it hurt if I were to change the struts? when doing the ball joints, i accidentally figured out how to do the struts, essentially by removing the steering knuckle (unnecessary) but not sure about the rears yet, then i'll do an alignment after the struts.
my front tires alre going bad though they're not too terribly old, but by rears are still alright, apparently when you touch the tie rods, you change the alignment, not sure about that, but I did see the outer tie rod when I worked on the ball joint.
Still, i'm confused about the nylon locknut and hope to succeed this time, I heard you dont' press it in but you can use a jack to push the ball joint in, and then instsall the nut and you shoudl be good, I might have crossthreaded the nut is what the parts store people believed.