Input from Diesel truck owners

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7.3 is bulletproof, slow as molasses but it'll keep pulling forever.

I have an 08 duramax with the DPF deleted and it has been rock solid, gets decent mileage and more than enough power. And it's quiet.

A buddy has an 03 Cummins and aside from a fuel leak we can't quite track down and a cold start issue (pretty sure it's related to the leak) it's great, not so great on the mileage but plenty of torque. Loud as [censored] though.
 
Originally Posted By: beanoil
OOOhhhhh..... The interwebs are a scary place. All those stories about the 6.0. All those problems! I have an 03 F350 with one of those ugly terrible motors. Not a spec of trouble, not a burp, or a hint of indigestion. The majority of 6.0 stories you read are from guys that say, "hey I put this tuner on", and "I was pullin this 15k trailer over the great divide at 70 MPH, and she overheated..."!" Yes, the torque to yield head bolts can be problematic if cylinder pressure is increased substantially. Yes, the oil cooler can be another sore spot if maintenance is not carried out. Yes, the EGR cooler can be a problem... they are in Dmax, and others as well. The FICM can go boink... usually a 180. power supply fixes it, the controller rarely fails. It's demise is usually an owner that lets the batteries go. Low voltage kills the power supply, and then the injectors suffer the same fate because you don't have a solid 48 volts on them. I have found no reason to run any of the fancy high voltage FICM's. You have to do whats right for you, but I've looked around, and for the money, because of their rep, the 6.0 can be had for cheap. I recently read of a guy that picked up an 07 with 29,000 miles because the owner didn't drive it for fear that it would blow. His 16,000 was a good investment, be cause even if he does everything to it he will only have about another 5k in the truck, and it will run another 250k miles. If you test drive a 6.0, I suggest you get some type of monitor, (OBD sender and smartphone app, or an Edge.. you are going to want one anyway) and look at the engine parameters while testing. Coolant to oil temp deltas should be below 15 while cruising unloaded. Look at the degas bottle for slime, and residue. If it still has gold coolant in it, you'll likely see a lot of both. Look for a constant 48 volts on the FICM readout. Use what you find as bargaining chips with the seller. Then get it home, and make a plan. You can go the full monty... Bullet Proof Diesel has a top shelf external cooler set up that works. the caveat being that if you hit a deer, you will damage that precious set up in a hurry, at great expense. They offer an upgraded EGR cooler if you have emission inspections, and want to comply with the Fed's. There are EGR deletes if you want to run afoul of the law, but you run the a low risk of being caught one day, and the fines are steep. To make it dead nuts reliable, you have to address the weaknesses, like any other vehicle ever. A complete flush of the cooling system using VC9 and a switch to Rotella Ultra ELC or Delo XLC is a must. If the temperature deltas are wacked out, replace the oil cooler. A factory cooler is less than 300 on the web. Upgrade to the BPD EGR cooler while you are in there. Or delete the EGR with a kit, but understand those can leak and you'll be back in there again, and they violate the law. Head gasket issues can be addressed if the PO has run a tuner. It's pretty obvious if you have gasket issues, the coolant will be puking from the degas bottle after a spirited run, and you'll likely see a lot of white smoke from the tailpipe. The heads must be flat, factory gaskets work just fine, and ARP studs are on every diesel site. You would find premium parts for whatever you were working on, the 6.0 is no different. If the gaskets show zero signs of problems, the studs can actually be snuck in one at a time without pulling the heads at all. The 6.0 can be very reliable if left stock, or with minor tunes to the FICM (50 hp Atlas tune works pretty dang good IMO), and replacement parts are plentiful to keep it running. It can be darn near perfect with some basic stuff, even if it isn't in good shape when you get it. Studs, machine work, gaskets, new oil cooler, BPD EGR, the proper coolant, 03-04 needs the billet 90mm water pump from BPD,( 05 and up with the 100mm, the newer pumps already have a metal impeller in the replacement world),a FICM power supply and some time will yield an engine that will be very reliable, and you'll still have less in it than you would a new truck. I know the post is long and rambles, sorry. Hopefully you can get the high points, and realize that it's not much different than anything else... address the weak points, upgrade where needed, and drive the heck out of it.


http://www.autoblog.com/2013/10/25/ford-settles-navistar-power-stroke-class-action-suit/
 
My ute is turbodiesel...love it.

Better mileage than the V-6 gasser (7km/l versus 10), relatively unaffected by operation in the city on the rare occaisons that I need to go there.

Can put a tonne in the tray if needed, and tow 3, the gasser was good for 2.5.

turbodiesel passenger cars are even becoming sought after main stream in Australia
 
Originally Posted By: beanoil
OOOhhhhh..... The interwebs are a scary place. All those stories about the 6.0. All those problems! I have an 03 F350 with one of those ugly terrible motors. Not a spec of trouble, not a burp, or a hint of indigestion. The majority of 6.0 stories you read are from guys that say, "hey I put this tuner on", and "I was pullin this 15k trailer over the great divide at 70 MPH, and she overheated..."!" Yes, the torque to yield head bolts can be problematic if cylinder pressure is increased substantially.


Actually, no, they are ALWAYS a problem...especially since Ford raised cylinder pressures beyond the maximum spec from IH!

Quote:
Yes, the oil cooler can be another sore spot if maintenance is not carried out. Yes, the EGR cooler can be a problem... they are in Dmax, and others as well. The FICM can go boink... usually a 180. power supply fixes it, the controller rarely fails. It's demise is usually an owner that lets the batteries go. Low voltage kills the power supply, and then the injectors suffer the same fate because you don't have a solid 48 volts on them. I have found no reason to run any of the fancy high voltage FICM's. You have to do whats right for you, but I've looked around, and for the money, because of their rep, the 6.0 can be had for cheap. I recently read of a guy that picked up an 07 with 29,000 miles because the owner didn't drive it for fear that it would blow. His 16,000 was a good investment, be cause even if he does everything to it he will only have about another 5k in the truck, and it will run another 250k miles.


Yeah...the 6.doh is great, after you spend a fortune re-engineering it!

Quote:
If you test drive a 6.0, I suggest you get some type of monitor, (OBD sender and smartphone app, or an Edge.. you are going to want one anyway) and look at the engine parameters while testing. Coolant to oil temp deltas should be below 15 while cruising unloaded. Look at the degas bottle for slime, and residue. If it still has gold coolant in it, you'll likely see a lot of both. Look for a constant 48 volts on the FICM readout. Use what you find as bargaining chips with the seller. Then get it home, and make a plan.


Yeah...a truck that needs a "plan" for when (not if, WHEN) something grenades is a WONDERFUL choice!
sick.gif


Quote:
You can go the full monty... Bullet Proof Diesel has a top shelf external cooler set up that works. the caveat being that if you hit a deer, you will damage that precious set up in a hurry, at great expense. They offer an upgraded EGR cooler if you have emission inspections, and want to comply with the Fed's. There are EGR deletes if you want to run afoul of the law, but you run the a low risk of being caught one day, and the fines are steep. To make it dead nuts reliable, you have to address the weaknesses, like any other vehicle ever. A complete flush of the cooling system using VC9 and a switch to Rotella Ultra ELC or Delo XLC is a must. If the temperature deltas are wacked out, replace the oil cooler. A factory cooler is less than 300 on the web. Upgrade to the BPD EGR cooler while you are in there. Or delete the EGR with a kit, but understand those can leak and you'll be back in there again, and they violate the law. Head gasket issues can be addressed if the PO has run a tuner. It's pretty obvious if you have gasket issues, the coolant will be puking from the degas bottle after a spirited run, and you'll likely see a lot of white smoke from the tailpipe. The heads must be flat, factory gaskets work just fine, and ARP studs are on every diesel site. You would find premium parts for whatever you were working on, the 6.0 is no different. If the gaskets show zero signs of problems, the studs can actually be snuck in one at a time without pulling the heads at all. The 6.0 can be very reliable if left stock, or with minor tunes to the FICM (50 hp Atlas tune works pretty dang good IMO), and replacement parts are plentiful to keep it running. It can be darn near perfect with some basic stuff, even if it isn't in good shape when you get it. Studs, machine work, gaskets, new oil cooler, BPD EGR, the proper coolant, 03-04 needs the billet 90mm water pump from BPD,( 05 and up with the 100mm, the newer pumps already have a metal impeller in the replacement world),a FICM power supply and some time will yield an engine that will be very reliable, and you'll still have less in it than you would a new truck. I know the post is long and rambles, sorry. Hopefully you can get the high points, and realize that it's not much different than anything else... address the weak points, upgrade where needed, and drive the heck out of it.


Or forget trying to polish that terd, and get something that is, you know...RELIABLE! The only reason to buy a truck with a 6.doh would be for scrap value or a bit more in order to DESTROKE it with Cummins power.
 
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
Originally Posted By: DemoFly
I see people buying and rebuilding older diesels a lot more than I used to.

It's a status symbol to have a 12v Cummins here. 6spds are priced above $25,000 regardless of mileage.

It must beat the alternative to buying new.


They cost $70,000 grand and are too complicated. Defeats the whole purpose of a diesel.


Well now, that might be indeed the sticker price, but anyone who actually pays that is a certain fool. It doesn't take being Donald Trump to get at least 20% off the sticker. I am certainly not the premier negotiator in the world and I have averaged 20% off sticker for the last 2 decades on all my vehicles.

I couldn't justify from a cost benefit standpoint going with diesel for my 2015 2500HD. I chose gas. Not disappointed one bit. I deal with enough diesel issues with all my other stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: beanoil
OOOhhhhh..... The interwebs are a scary place. All those stories about the 6.0. ... address the weak points, upgrade where needed, and drive the heck out of it.



Everything you say is undoubtedly true, but maybe the OP just wants a newer truck to drive, not a new hobby!
 
Dodge/Cummins: For 03-08, be prepared to replace the entire front end. The following parts blow, and received re-engineered designs as a result:

Power Steering Gearbox
Power Steering Pump
Haltenberger Steering linkage
Steering damper

I wouldn't mess with those 4-speed autos. They really don't get the ratios right. Durability is kinda questionable too. Built right, they can take a monster of power.

Don't know what all of the other complaining is about. Both of my Rams have a ton of mileage and look like new.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
My ute is turbodiesel...love it.

Better mileage than the V-6 gasser (7km/l versus 10), relatively unaffected by operation in the city on the rare occaisons that I need to go there.

Can put a tonne in the tray if needed, and tow 3, the gasser was good for 2.5.

turbodiesel passenger cars are even becoming sought after main stream in Australia


Amen! It seems the diesel engine has been emission controlled to death in the US, while the rest of the world happily drives them for millions of trouble free kilometers! We recently returned from a 2600km roadtrip in the Outlander, with 6 people and a roof pod, and it averaged 7 litres per 100km - try that with a petrol ("gasser") engine.

Went to friends house for a BBQ last weekend, and of the 7 vehicles there, 5 were diesel - a Toyota HiLux and Landcruiser, Ford Ranger, Ford Mondeo and my Mitsubishi. And all of them made it home without a DPF delete!
 
With what they have done to the complexity of diesels in the last few years, I would say to stay away unless you absolutely need it to tow very heavy loads. Otherwise today's gassers will last plenty long enough, when they do go the rest of the truck will need lots of work without any of the drama that many owners of newer diesels have had to go through.
 
90% of diesel light duty truck owners don't need a diesel. 75% of diesel light duty business purchases don't need diesel either.

Switching my wrecker fleet from diesel to all gas was the best thing I've ever done.

Case in point you can have Ford install a new reman crate V10 with a warranty for about $500 more than replacing a turbo.

Everything is cheaper with gas and they tow just fine. My gas wreckers do not have any lack of power.
 
Originally Posted By: ToadU
90% of diesel light duty truck owners don't need a diesel. 75% of diesel light duty business purchases don't need diesel either.

Switching my wrecker fleet from diesel to all gas was the best thing I've ever done.

Case in point you can have Ford install a new reman crate V10 with a warranty for about $500 more than replacing a turbo.

Everything is cheaper with gas and they tow just fine. My gas wreckers do not have any lack of power.


I think you covered pretty well the fact that the typical operations of your trucks are well outside of anything that almost anyone is going to see in their typical life or business. I understand full well that gas is working for you, because your DPF'd diesels were guzzling the fuel and causing themselves a lot of issues with the constant idling.

I'm going to guess however, that your wreckers don't make a big habit of towing 9-10 tons over relatively long distances. I'd be too afraid to have a gun and my fuel bill in the same room if I did that.
 
DoubleWasp,
good point, the wreckers trucks here in town probably don't go more than 30 miles most directions
 
Originally Posted By: ToadU
90% of diesel light duty truck owners don't need a diesel. 75% of diesel light duty business purchases don't need diesel either.


Actually, I would put the numbers closer to 99.999% and 98%.
 
I owned a 96 f350 powerstroke it was a great truck but only a reg cab,so i sold it for a chevy 2500 with 6.0 gasser yikes.Sold that and ordered a brand new 2005 ram 2500 cummins in 04 .Been the best truck i have had yet.Other than reg maintenance oil, brakes, 2 water pumps and front end rebuild once,it's been awesome.110,000 miles and runs like new and looks like it too. New cost's wayy too much and all the very expensive emissions stuff is crazy no thank you.Next truck will be gas and prob smaller,no need for a 2500.Seems most of the utility companies and ambulances are all gassers now no more diesels,ambulance is useless broke down on way to emergency.
 
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Originally Posted By: ToadU
90% of diesel light duty truck owners don't need a diesel. 75% of diesel light duty business purchases don't need diesel either.

Switching my wrecker fleet from diesel to all gas was the best thing I've ever done.

Case in point you can have Ford install a new reman crate V10 with a warranty for about $500 more than replacing a turbo.

Everything is cheaper with gas and they tow just fine. My gas wreckers do not have any lack of power.


Pretty much, my friend who is a Dr was test driving a 2500 Ram recently, loaded to the gills with the Cummins. The salesman with us was actually honest. He said most people buy diesels for the sound, the last one he sold was to an accountant who liked the sound...

All you have to do is look at how they are finished inside and the price....do you really need leather, nav, and a sunroof to tow equipment on muddy job sites. Nope.

They are marketing them to my friend who quite frankly is cross shopping it with a Range Rover and a Suburban...
 
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Well I Guess I am the 1% or 5% or 10%. My long highway runs loaded(truck not me) make an ideal diesel decision. I always order with leather as it cleans much easier. I live in a rural farming community where the diesel trucks outnumber gas power as thats whats needed, one friend hauls hay several times a week. I do agree though if you take a snapshot of the country as a whole there are probably more diesels sold than need be, but who is anyone of us to judge what someone else does with their own money? The OP came on here looking for model year/makes for suggestions, not to be deterred by "buy a gas" comments.

It could be my duty cycle or pm or whatever, but I have been driving diesel trucks since the 80's and have never had any type of the "internet catastrophic failure" that I have read about, and that included two different 6.0 Power Strokes. We did have a '93 Chevy diesel that ended up being an electrical nightmare with gremlins throughout the entire wiring harness until one day a little gremlin decided to start welding under the dash and shut me down along the road. We bypassed the shut-off on the injection pump, jumped the solenoid, and drove it directly to a dealership to be traded.

Even with that truck the engine never give me any trouble, and for its time put out good power compared to the other offerings. If one is looking for a used diesel the secret is trying to find one that hasn't been tuned and driven on the highway.
 
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