[CUT OPEN] Hyundai/Kia OEM Filter

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KD0AXS

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I don't know what else to say here except what a great looking filter. Price at the local Hyundai dealer is $5.70, so I can't see why I would even want to use anything else. That price includes a new washer for the drain plug too.

This was installed by the dealer before we bought the car and had about 5000 miles on it. Not sure exactly what oil they used, the sticker just said "Chevron". I'm guessing it was 5W-20. I replaced it with another OEM filter and M1 AFE 0W-30. I'll probably be doing 7500 mile OCIs as recommended by the owners manual.



Every single pleat was perfectly straight and nearly perfect spacing.




ADBV looks great and was definitely doing its job. Made a huge mess all over my work bench when I opened it up.




The Hyundai emblem on the bypass valve is a nice little touch.



I'm assuming this is the manufacture date.



Some pics of the new one.



 
Thanks for the cut and post KD0AXS. Looks good
smile.gif
 
I love the Hyundai oil filters and use them on my Honda CRV. I just noticed the Mann+Hummel stamping. My older Hyundai oil filters from a few months ago don't have that stamping. Nice pictures of a nice oil filter. THANKS!!
 
I don't understand adbv valves. What opens them if oil flows through the middle of them ?
 
Basically you would have some oil leak out of the filter Zach1900. MC-910S I have used/use hold oil in the filter. Someone that knows LOT more than me will chime in with info.

Hope I could help some
 
Originally Posted By: zach1900
I don't understand adbv valves. What opens them if oil flows through the middle of them ?


Oil coming from the sump flows through the small outer holes, pushing the ADBV open. Then it flows through the media and into the engine through the large center hole. The ADBV seals against the base plate when the engine is not running, which prevents the oil from flowing backwards through the small holes and back to the sump.
 
Mann Hummel Korea!

What are the specs on this filter?

I'm thinking other applications other than Hyundai.
 
Thanks for the explanation KDOAXS! Hopefully it will all make sense and become clear once I cut open one for myself. I still do not grasp how the oil gets from the inlet perimeter holes, past the ADBV, then INTO the media. It looks like the metal endcaps prevent that. Even so......

Looks great, better than new.

That solo shot of the orange donut, for some reason, is really pretty!

Media looks picturesque. $5.70 seems like a price where everyone wins. They do not seem to be taking a hit by providing quality goods. You seem to be happy with the cost. Looks like nothing was wasted and the penny was not stretched. Five and change for a 5000 mile filter. Could that be the norm with the current monetary system. A dollar for a thousand miles? A bottom dollar filter for 3000 OCI for rarely driven vehicles, $5 for 5k, 10 for extended drains.

Hopefully the torn Purolators that were posted did no real harm. Maybe they can charge what they want ($5 classic, $7.50 P1, 10-11Synthetic or whatever amount they can happily manufacture them for and not feel like their work is meanjngless or feel like a sweat shop slave laborer......I guess I am in the flow camp. I would rather have a filter (air or oil or fuel) that doesnt restrict flow enough to starve the engine or hinder performance, doesnt have to last 100,000 miles. Every 30,000 ceiling with a slight noticable boost in power or smoothness when you do put in a fresh one. Not a rock catcher but also not that is so restrictive that air cannot even pass,lol. Catch my drift? Just a decent flow with decent filtration using decent materials for a decent price that lasts a decent time/miles.

Guess I am wandering off subject today, but cabin or home furnace filters are where we need clean non-toxic materials filtering out pollutants such as pollen, mold, gases, dirt.....all the unhealthy stuff that still have some flow properties to be able to heat and cool adequately.


Does anyone really believe a difference between 99% @ 10 microns versus 98% at 10 microns makes a difference? Will the oil leak out of the gaskets less, will the engine make more power, last longer, burn less oil or the emissions system stay in tune longer because of this? I do not know. I just find it silly that some would rather win the paper race than at the drag strip or in the high mileage/longevity department.


I hear my engine can have oil pump problems. So maybe a filter that gets 99.9% @ 5 microns would keep it alive longer or keep dirt, grime, carbon, soot, etc from building up in the oil system......does that happen or maybe a oil change drain gets what the filter did not catch out of the lubrication system anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Thanks for the explanation KDOAXS! Hopefully it will all make sense and become clear once I cut open one for myself. I still do not grasp how the oil gets from the inlet perimeter holes, past the ADBV, then INTO the media. It looks like the metal endcaps prevent that.


It's a Flap valve, like a sprung door that will let you into a room but not let you get out.
The meatal end of the filter element does not prevent the valve adbv opening, it only seals tight to the base plate in the area around the large centeral hole of the outlet.
 
I'd wager that MannHummel will take care of the Purolator issue. Purolator's new filter line up is on the way.

This Hyundai filter is an excellent choice if your car calls for a PH6607, PH7317, PH3593a, PH9688... sized filter. If it fits, feel free to use it. 20mmx1.5 thread, silicone ADBV, BPV, and media that does a pretty good job of keeping the oil visible clean. Whats not to like?
 
expat,

So the oil goes into the media from the outside of the media to the inside of the metal backing then into the engine galleries, then drips back into the oilpan where it is picked up and forced back into the inlet holes and enters into the filter from the outer perimeter of the media?
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
expat,

So the oil goes into the media from the outside of the media to the inside of the metal backing then into the engine galleries, then drips back into the oilpan where it is picked up and forced back into the inlet holes and enters into the filter from the outer perimeter of the media?


That's about it.

As you see in the illustration, kindly provided, you can also add a Bypass valve.
If the filter media offers too much restriction ie. It's plugged up, excess pressure forces a spring to depress and open a valve that will allow un-filtered oil through to the engine.
 
That filter looks remarkably solid. Incredibly robust.

I'm very curious how long a filter like that could actually run without being replaced.

Quite the bargain.
 
Thanks for the education.

Nice picture Zee0Six,

Expat you answered the question before I asked it, about the bypass..so, just have to confirm, the cellulose media gets clogged or the oil is too viscous to permeate it and instead of the filter can bursting, the pressure somehow opens a (uh, leaf or coil spring....is that the part stamped with the Hyundai logo?) bypass valve to allow nearly unrestricted flow of oil to the engine.


And the only purpose of the ADBV is so every start after the initial oil and filter change is to hold oil for nearly instant flow...aka to avoid a dry start. Like prefilling Big Rig filters to avoid catastrophe, but the ADBV saves a minute amount of wear every time the engine is cranked/started?





Thanks again, eight years on here and there it is.!
 
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