whats in waxoyl and dinitrol?

[PgPilot]

Bluestream, I am not sure what you have against Waxoyl, but your posts are WAY off base. I live in Vermont and pound my Land Rover down dirt roads (sprayed with sodium chloride in the summer to keep dust down) and we get 6 months of salt... basically the harshest corrosion environment with the most rust prone vehicle ever, so trust me when I say- Waxoyl is THE BEST CORROSION PREVENTION ON THE WORLD. Hands down, bar none.

The comments regarding trapping water in are totally wrong. Assuming he isn't intentionally slandering Waxoyl, the only explanation is the Waxoyl was applied onto of another product which had trapped the moisture. I say this with confidence as Waxoyl displaces moisture to make a permanent bond with the metal. On several occasions, I have pressure washed vehicles and applied Waxoyl to the wet vehicle and achieved a perfect bond. I prefer to let a vehicle dry before applying as it makes less mess during the application, but you can apply it right over water. Here is a clear example- You can spill Waxoyl in a sink full of water, it will float. If you push it to the edge, it bonds with the the sink as if you had sprayed it to a dry surface.

Regarding your comment "If it was so great why is in not used in the largest market for rusty cars".. Waxoyl had issues with the USA distributor (they started making their own cheaper product selling under the Waxoyl name! Big no-no, ended in a lawsuit) and so pulled out of the market for a long time. Rovers North is the new USA importer and distributor. You can buy the product from them.

... As you can tell this is my first post here. I love Waxoyl so much (I put it on all my friends and families vehicles!) that I had to jump on here and defend the product!

Waxoyl is the best!

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Has anyone tried these?

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g1136.pdf


It says page not found. But if you're referring to their HD Metal Protector it worked well on my 08 Liberty. I applied it in late 07 when I got it and touch it up yearly. It is holding up very well.

 

[buck91]

I was definately unimpressed with HDMP. It seems like it would do a good job, but I noticed surface rust popping in lots of spots on my truck's underbody after its use. Does that mean HDMP caused it? Dunno, maybe it would have been twice as bad without it...but in any case I've switched to Fluid Film.

 

[BRZED]

Pretty sure that Waxoyl is paraffin dissolved in turpentine and mixed with a little oil. If you mix it yourself, it's brushable or can be sprayed.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: buck91
I was definately unimpressed with HDMP. It seems like it would do a good job, but I noticed surface rust popping in lots of spots on my truck's underbody after its use. Does that mean HDMP caused it? Dunno, maybe it would have been twice as bad without it...but in any case I've switched to Fluid Film.


That's a tough call. I'll be using this on my next new vehicle and to re-coat the Jeep. Its not cheap but it does very well in the salt spray tests.

http://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-VpCI-368-P82C28.aspx

 

[Olas]

Waxoyl is why my 33yr old daily driver has no rust and no welds.

Wax, oil, bitumen etc

http://www.smithandallan.com/documents/SDSHM126 Hammerite Waxoyl 2.pdf

 

[BRZED]

Here is my homemade undercoating. Contains turpentine as the solvent, Ballistol, paraffin and red dye. The amount of oil determines how greasy the end product is. The amount of turpentine dtermines the consistency of the product. I presume you can use any mineral spirit if you don't care for the smell of turpentine. You can achieve a soft or a hard product. You may add dye if you like. Mixol works.To mix the components you apply heat. To apply the product you also warm it up so you can apply it. At medium consistency the product goes on pretty thin and dries so it's not sticky to the touch. For the second picture I scraped off some of the coating. You can steam clean the coating off. Experiment and don't hold me responsible if the brew eats up your paint, plastic undercoating, driveway etc. User beware of internet recipes.

 

[Michael_P]

My homebrew uses a toilet bowl wax ring. Even thinned down, the oil penetrates and is very tenacious. The box on the wax ring says no paraffin, petroleum based wax. Seeing paraffin comes from petroleum, I really don't know the difference. I haven't used the homebrew on the cars and truck, but I have used it on my tractor where the salt spreader is hooked up to. After 5 years, no rust on the tractor.

 

[BRZED]

In the interest of full disclosure, I have used my homebrew only on my wheelbarrow and on my gardening tools.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: BRZED
Here is my homemade undercoating. Contains turpentine as the solvent, Ballistol, paraffin and red dye. The amount of oil determines how greasy the end product is. The amount of turpentine dtermines the consistency of the product. I presume you can use any mineral spirit if you don't care for the smell of turpentine. You can achieve a soft or a hard product. You may add dye if you like. Mixol works.To mix the components you apply heat. To apply the product you also warm it up so you can apply it. At medium consistency the product goes on pretty thin and dries so it's not sticky to the touch. For the second picture I scraped off some of the coating. You can steam clean the coating off. Experiment and don't hold me responsible if the brew eats up your paint, plastic undercoating, driveway etc.


Why the ballistol and turpentine? More specifically, did you select ballistol for solvency or another reason, and why did you select turpentine versus other solvents?

I've thought about trying some form of linseed oil (with or without dryers), just as a stand alone coating...

Since turpentine solves petroleum jelly, I wonder how the product would look and behave if the paraffin was replaced by petroleum jelly as a "non drying" variant.

 

[BRZED]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: BRZED
Here is my homemade undercoating. Contains turpentine as the solvent, Ballistol, paraffin and red dye. The amount of oil determines how greasy the end product is. The amount of turpentine dtermines the consistency of the product. I presume you can use any mineral spirit if you don't care for the smell of turpentine. You can achieve a soft or a hard product. You may add dye if you like. Mixol works.To mix the components you apply heat. To apply the product you also warm it up so you can apply it. At medium consistency the product goes on pretty thin and dries so it's not sticky to the touch. For the second picture I scraped off some of the coating. You can steam clean the coating off. Experiment and don't hold me responsible if the brew eats up your paint, plastic undercoating, driveway etc.


Why the ballistol and turpentine? More specifically, did you select ballistol for solvency or another reason, and why did you select turpentine versus other solvents?

I've thought about trying some form of linseed oil (with or without dryers), just as a stand alone coating...

Since turpentine solves petroleum jelly, I wonder how the product would look and behave if the paraffin was replaced by petroleum jelly as a "non drying" variant.


I used Ballistol because I know it prevents further rusting of already rusty tools if applied. Turpentine because I have a large quantity and because I like its smell. As I previously said, varying the proportions of the ingredients, you can achieve a very soft or very hard product. You may well get the same or superior results with different solvents and other ingredients. Please don't expect me to test them all for your convenience. I gave you a starting point for a recipe for something that works for me, but feel free to create your own concoction.

 

[JHZR2]

Where did I ask you to test anything? The starting point is a good one, but different from the usual motor oil and wax type concoction. The use of ballistol vs turpentine was just an interesting tidbit to me.

And I couldn't care less how hard or soft the stuff is, I'm more curious of its capability to creep and self heal, which is why I wonder if petroleum jelly would have a play. I'm a user of known type creeping oils, but a minority component of a wax or petroleum jelly might enable higher staying power.

Doesn't balistol (and petroleum jelly) emulsify into a white liquid when combined with water? Might not make for good additives in high wash areas...

 

[BRZED]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
The use of ballistol vs turpentine was just an interesting tidbit to me.


I apologize for you misreading what I wrote. It is not one "versus" the other.

 

[JHZR2]

Should have said ballistol and turpentine, as was stated in my earlier post just above. I fully realize that you had both in the recipe. The use of two (actually probably more since ballistol is a mix of alcohols and other alkanes) solvents and the reasoning was my curiosity, regardless of the use of one word.

If there's a technical basis and concept behind it, I was all ears. I think you gave your thoughts already though. If nothing else, so be it.