Front brakes overheated

[toneydoc]

I changed the front brake pads on my Jeep about a month ago. Today it was really hot and I had several long downhills where I had to brake for traffic and lights.
I kept thinking I smelled burning brakes. When I stopped for a red light, sure enough I saw some smoke coming from my passenger side tire/wheel area. I had to go about another 3 miles to get to a place with some water and area to pull wheel and look about.
I poured a couple gallons of water on the hub and brake assembly to cool them off after I got wheel off. The pads were still compressed to the rotor somewhat and the wheel would not turn freely.
So I took a tool and broke the pads free of the rotor and got the assembly to move freely. I then drove it home. Luckily most of it was freeway and did not require any braking. I used emergency brake when I did have to brake and slowed down long before I had to.
Any way, I got home without further problems or brake issues. My question is should I or do I need to do anything with those pads? And if so, what do you recommend?
Thanks to all

 

[spk2000]

What kind of pads are they? They may give you a new set even if they think you might have abused them. When I worked at Akebono we would get Hummer claims that were obvious abuse. Covered them anyways. Not all manufacturers are that forgiving but many are.

 

[Kool1]

If your brakes don't squeal, your pads should be o.k. I would be more concerned about the rotors. I would check them for warpage and if they aren't warped I would at least deglaze them with sandpaper.

 

[901Memphis]

Replace rotors and pads if financially possible.

 

[eljefino]

Well the pads should move freely. If you pull the caliper and they're sticky in their guides, grind 'em down. If it's the caliper's fault, go at it from that angle.

 

[2civics]

+1 (?) for having brake problems and then getting on the freeway anyhow.

That would have scared me to the back roads.

 

[RoadRaceJosh]

It sounds as though the right-side brake caliper's piston may be hanging up. Phenolic caliper pistons when they go bad will swell and soft seize. This happened to me about 9 months ago and I ended up replacing the caliper in the parts store parking lot. Mine didn't smoke, but it pulled towards the bad caliper until I hit the brake pedal and then it pulled strongly to the other side as the cold brake worked much better.

 

[Rand]

sounds like you need to fix the problem. Only you know how bad it was. In addition to the cause of the problem the rotors and pads might need replacement as well.

Are the pads binding up? clean up the hardware and grind them until they move smoothly.

is it a caliper issue? replace the caliper?

Caliper slide issue? Remove/clean/re-grease with something decent like sil-glyde

 

[SwampSurvivor]

In my experience, once the vehicle gets above 6 or 7 years old, the pistons in the caliper (NOT sliders) seize. Went through this on my Jeep.

It was much easier to throw a set of calipers at it

 

[901Memphis]

It might not be a bad idea to just replace everything. The calipers are possibly the problem and the consumable stuff (pad/rotors) are now scorched, so replacing all 3 should make it stop like a brand new truck.

You can get everything on Rockauto cheap.

 

[toneydoc]

Im busy for a few days but will get into it in a little bit.

I thought I would pull it apart, look at everything and check functionality.

Should be a good afternoon.

 

[andyd]

I take the caliper apart and buff up the slide and lube them with silicone grease. I pop the piston out 3/4 of the way, before I take the caliper off. Then, I pull the piston out and clean it up with a brush and a soft wire wheel on a bench grinder. I use a lot of Sil-Glyde and a big C clamp to to re-fit the puck. The calipers are the ATEs on my 88 528e. I have plenty of used parts to choose from, so I practiced. As for the pads and the rotor, I would take a knotted wire wheel to the rotor surface. 60-80 grit sand paper will work. If the pads haven't cracked, knock the glaze off and re-use.

 

[wrcsixeight]

I don't think I would have been pouring water on the caliper if it got that hot.

Did it make a 'Ting' sound when you did that?

I recently replaced my calipers and pads. My calipers rest in some Flat ways where they can slide, but the old pads were tapered back to front and obviously were not sliding properly despite the liberal application of Sylglide.

Closer inspection of the ways the calipers reside in revealed they were far from flat and there was a depression where the inner pad rested.. I used a file to make the surface flat and smooth, then wetsanded them with 220, 400 600 and 800 grit until they were buttery smooth.

The new Napa calipers which were painted black, were also not flat where they would rest in the ways. The paint drips got filed flat and the same wetsanding treatment.

I installed them with permatex green hi temp brake grease, which is thinner than Sylglide. They slide back and forth in the ways buttery smooth. I'd also sanded the rotors according to the directions that came with my Hawk HPS pads, and performed their bed in procedure.

My brakes have never worked better. My Vehicle turned old enough to drink back in 2011, and of all the newer vehicles I get to drive regularly, none of them requires less effort on the brake pedal to stop the vehicle. I am very impressed with the bite of the Hawk HPS pads, and their mild and quiet manners when driven sedately.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Pouring water on is a good way to destroy the rotor, too

 

[SHOZ]

What kind of pads? Did you bead them in when you put new ones on?