15k OCI interval, thoughts 2004 Honda Accord k24a4

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Originally Posted By: 2004tdigls
lol why??

oil is cheap and engines are expensive

why sludge up an engine to save about $50?


Yes, I have to agree.
 
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Do it, you will be just fine. Just keep your oil topped off is all

Agree.

My '94 LS400 OCI with synthetic(but not M1 EP) is 1 year up to 18-19k miles, the engine has more than 370k miles without any problem. I may has vanish under the valve cover, but I don't know for sure because the valve covers were never removed.
 
For a car with unknown history, I think I would do a UOA at 7500 or so before simply jumping into a 15,000.

It shouldn't be a problem, but ...
 
1) how do you know that your car isnt an oil burner? (some K24s from your vintage are)
2) your goal is to 'clean the sucker out'? how does an extended drain do this?

If it were my car I would start out with a well known conventional, check the oil every 1000 miles and determine consumption over 5000 miles. If you are adding quarts of oil in this time period then the extended drains with high dollar oils are not going to save you a dime.
 
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Do it, you will be just fine. Just keep your oil topped off is all

+1 With the kind of driving you're doing, it should be fine. You don't mention what part of the country you live in or whether it's a V6 or 4 cyl Accord. 80 mile commute is an easy drive though - as celica gt mentioned above - keep it topped off & you'll be fine.
 
I've done 13k on my 2005 CR-V, same engine. And that was between 187k-200k overall on the car. The UOA came back saying go to 15k. Full disclosure, I did have to add one quart of make-up.
 
Originally Posted By: bigt61
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Do it, you will be just fine. Just keep your oil topped off is all

+1 With the kind of driving you're doing, it should be fine. You don't mention what part of the country you live in or whether it's a V6 or 4 cyl Accord. 80 mile commute is an easy drive though - as celica gt mentioned above - keep it topped off & you'll be fine.


K24 is the 2.4L 4.
 
Originally Posted By: 2004tdigls
lol why??

oil is cheap and engines are expensive

why sludge up an engine to save about $50?

On the flip side why change out oil that is still good.
I agree with those that say 10k and test would be safe.
 
IIRC, the owner's manual for that model year & engine calls for 7500 on conventional oil under normal service.

With regular maintenance, that engine should be fine for 15k under your driving conditions. However, it's new to you with an unknown service history. I'm with the others who suggest a UOA at 8-10k to make sure there are no problems. If that first UOA is clear, I'd feel much more comfortable doing 15k intervals afterward.
 
You won't have a problem. A friend does 15K with m1 5-30EP on his V6 Dodge van and has had very good success. His last van was a Ford Windstar and he put 200K at 15K OCIs and the engine performed very well and stayed clean with 5-30 EP. Never did a UOA.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
If you're asking for my thoughts . . . . my thoughts are sludge and varnish.


Sorry, but your thoughts in this case are wrong.
 
Considering that Honda recommends 10k/1 year on conventional 5W-20 (normal conditions) I don't think 15k is out of the question for M1 0W-20 EP. If the OP is commuting 80 miles daily then I would consider this normal driving. When I did a UOA on my 2005 Accord 2.4 (no longer own) the numbers looked great after 10k and I would have gone further but sold the car. I say go for 15k!
 
My brother has 180k miles on his Accord with the 2.4L and does 10-12k OCI on bulk valvoline 5w20 and valvoline filter. He drives 45k miles a year now for work. Engine looks ok through fill hole - slight varnish, no sludge. This is apparently when his OLM goes on.

People wonder when to change oil - manuf. puts an OLM monitor on car determined by engineers - customer still questions when and with what product to change the oil...
confused2.gif
 
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Wouldn't hesitate for a second.

Honda 2.4 is a very easy-on-oil engine; and with all highway driving on a stout oil like M1 EP, you won't have any issues.

ONLY caveat is to check oil regularly and top-off as needed.
 
Originally Posted By: GMFan
My brother has 180k miles on his Accord with the 2.4L and does 10-12k OCI on bulk valvoline 5w20 and valvoline filter. He drives 45k miles a year now for work. Engine looks ok through fill hole - slight varnish, no sludge. This is apparently when his OLM goes on.

People wonder when to change oil - manuf. puts an OLM monitor on car determined by engineers - customer still questions when and with what product to change the oil...
confused2.gif



My 2004 Accord doesn't have an OLM or else I would totally use that.

I decided I'm going to continue doing my original plan of a 15k OCI on this car with unknown history. It's my 3rd vehicle and oldest (just a cheap commuter car). My other two vehicles a 2008 Toyota Tundra 5.7 gets 5k OCI using the same M1 0W-20 EP / Toyota filter and my 2013 Nissan Rogue gets 7.5k OCI using M1 5w-30 EP / Fram ultra.

I'm not trying to cheap out on the Honda, it's just more of an annoyance changing 3 vehicles oil/filters so I'm maximizing my run on the Honda since it's the oldest.
 
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Originally Posted By: jdavis
I'm going to run a 15k OCI on my 2004 Accord, M1 0w-20 EP, Fram Ultra, 121k miles on the car, I've had it since 120k miles and don't know the history, roughly 80% highway, will do a UOA after, thoughts? I'm going to clean the sucker out.


Most Honda engines, this one included, seem to be pretty easy on oil, so I can go with the notion of running 15K with a solid oil on a commute of 80 miles each day.
What gives me pause is where you write that you've owned the thing all of a thousand miles and its history is unknown.
I'd feel better doing a few 5K runs of something decent and then going for 15K.
A UOA might be ideal, but probably not really needed.
My thinking is that a few shorter runs of any decent oil should clean up any gross deposits which you might not want to have circulating for 15K and which might even overwhelm the detergent/dispersant capacity of M1 EP on a really long run.
We all like to think of the oil filter as catching all debris, but a lot of it remains suspended in the oil since the particles are too small to be filtered out. All is well until the dispersant capability of the oil is overwhelmed and these small particles start aglomerating into larger and more damaging ones.
JMHO
 
Just an update to this thread, I ended up dumping this M1 EP after 5,000 miles and it was very black. Looking down the fill hole I can see heavy varnish so I opted for the early oil change. I put in M1 HM for it's strong cleaning ability.
 
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