diesel to clean sludge
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Originally Posted By: Nebroch
Local dealerships are using similar chemicals (Forte is one common brand).
It's quite stupid actually, first they increase OCI to 2 years/20k miles, and then "fix" the sludge/deposit problem with these solvents
LOL, you are soooo correct.
I remember Forte, back in the '80s where I worked. Had a flush, and a fortifier..an extra $30 per OCI, back in 1987.
Local dealerships are using similar chemicals (Forte is one common brand).
It's quite stupid actually, first they increase OCI to 2 years/20k miles, and then "fix" the sludge/deposit problem with these solvents
LOL, you are soooo correct.
I remember Forte, back in the '80s where I worked. Had a flush, and a fortifier..an extra $30 per OCI, back in 1987.
today as i was leaving the property i saw him at the rv. he waited till he set the fast idle as low as possible. turns out the rv has a really deep pan with cooling ridges. he ended up putting 3 qts of 5w30 and a gallon of diesel in it. hes on his 5th 5 minute soak. no strange noises yet besides 20 psi less oil pressure
Originally Posted By: Shannow
My first car was a heavily neglected Inline six, with 7 years on 20W50 dino (and Lord knows what before that), so badly sludged, that the rockers had their own tracks int eh valve cover...I scraped out a couple quarts of black gunk in rocker and sideplates.
Filled with Kero (no oil) and just idled it...drained out like black used oil, thick...did it again, then a couple of very shorts OCIS on rubbish oil.
Used a litre of diesel every OCI as an idle flush for some time after that.
I was young, and lucky...it worked, and did no damage...I'd do it again, but probably with diesel rather than Kero.
bobbydavro has an interesting point
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3546847/Re:_Castrol_0W-30_Belgium_vs_C#Post3546847
Originally Posted By: bobbydavro
Ive know ultra high performance race oils use un-additised diesel as a base oil with rediculous levels of friction modifiers
I don't doubt that if you can get some FM in there, you could do a diesel flush quite safely at idle, multiple short periods, no load....now biodiesel, esterified edible oils could be amazing in such an application.
Esterfied edible oils?
Like canola oil for example.
We had a member here using canola at least in some part in his engine. He was messaging me with updates but I haven't seen nor heard anything recently.
So would canola oil work,albeit probably not as fast as a solvent but not quite as risky either.
My first car was a heavily neglected Inline six, with 7 years on 20W50 dino (and Lord knows what before that), so badly sludged, that the rockers had their own tracks int eh valve cover...I scraped out a couple quarts of black gunk in rocker and sideplates.
Filled with Kero (no oil) and just idled it...drained out like black used oil, thick...did it again, then a couple of very shorts OCIS on rubbish oil.
Used a litre of diesel every OCI as an idle flush for some time after that.
I was young, and lucky...it worked, and did no damage...I'd do it again, but probably with diesel rather than Kero.
bobbydavro has an interesting point
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3546847/Re:_Castrol_0W-30_Belgium_vs_C#Post3546847
Originally Posted By: bobbydavro
Ive know ultra high performance race oils use un-additised diesel as a base oil with rediculous levels of friction modifiers
I don't doubt that if you can get some FM in there, you could do a diesel flush quite safely at idle, multiple short periods, no load....now biodiesel, esterified edible oils could be amazing in such an application.
Esterfied edible oils?
Like canola oil for example.
We had a member here using canola at least in some part in his engine. He was messaging me with updates but I haven't seen nor heard anything recently.
So would canola oil work,albeit probably not as fast as a solvent but not quite as risky either.
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A braver man than I.
I'd drop the oil pan and decide if further action was warranted.
Then proceed slowly.
I'd drop the oil pan and decide if further action was warranted.
Then proceed slowly.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Esterfied edible oils?
Like canola oil for example.
We had a member here using canola at least in some part in his engine. He was messaging me with updates but I haven't seen nor heard anything recently.
Was thinking more of the ester than the oil (have tried 1,000km of canola at the end of an OCI on my Caprice varnish to no avail).
Biodiesel is an esterified vegetable oil...AutoRx is an esterified lanolin....more along the lines of where I was headed. Pretty sure Schaeffers had one as well.
Esterfied edible oils?
Like canola oil for example.
We had a member here using canola at least in some part in his engine. He was messaging me with updates but I haven't seen nor heard anything recently.
Was thinking more of the ester than the oil (have tried 1,000km of canola at the end of an OCI on my Caprice varnish to no avail).
Biodiesel is an esterified vegetable oil...AutoRx is an esterified lanolin....more along the lines of where I was headed. Pretty sure Schaeffers had one as well.
Diesel fuel might seem a bit harsh on seals. I would use LM Engine flush at 50% dosage and then change the oil. I am always worried on flushes and figure half as much equals half of any problems. If it works then you fixed half your situation and have another half of the can for future problems. I cant remember where I read it, but Moly is known to keep carbon and sludge from sticking. Maybe instead of a flush using a high moly oil or moly additive to help the issue is something to try. Hyundai / Kia recommend pennzoil/quaker state. Looking at data tables they both have moly/boron in them. Maybe its to combat these exact issues?
^^^^
Most likely a marketing arrangement more than anything IMO as just about any name brand oil would be more than sufficient to take the cars well beyond warranty. Their silly short OCI recommendations further make the actual oil choice irrelevant as well, other than meeting proper specs.
Most likely a marketing arrangement more than anything IMO as just about any name brand oil would be more than sufficient to take the cars well beyond warranty. Their silly short OCI recommendations further make the actual oil choice irrelevant as well, other than meeting proper specs.
Originally Posted By: leroyd92
he ended up putting 3 qts of 5w30 and a gallon of diesel in it
I think nothing at all will happen: the sludge won't disappear, and the engine won't get damaged. I tried the same method on a slightly sludged smart car engine: 50%/50% diesel/oil mixture, engine already warm, then let it idle for 20 minutes, then immediately drain everything and change oil and filter... and nothing happened, sludge is still there, engine runs well as before.
I've heard of someone taking away the valve cover and the oil pan, then pressure washing everything with hot soapy water... I don't know the results though
best,
DH
he ended up putting 3 qts of 5w30 and a gallon of diesel in it
I think nothing at all will happen: the sludge won't disappear, and the engine won't get damaged. I tried the same method on a slightly sludged smart car engine: 50%/50% diesel/oil mixture, engine already warm, then let it idle for 20 minutes, then immediately drain everything and change oil and filter... and nothing happened, sludge is still there, engine runs well as before.
I've heard of someone taking away the valve cover and the oil pan, then pressure washing everything with hot soapy water... I don't know the results though
best,
DH
There's nothing out of line what he wants to attempt should be just fine.
We had an old 79 LTD 351 v8 years back had a terrible lifter tick the car was heading to the scrap yard so we decided to drain the oil and re-fill it with strait diesel fuel no oil, we ran it at low rpm's for a wile and it cleaned it up stopped the tick he decided to run the car yet, it ran fine for years to come then he did junk it.
We had an old 79 LTD 351 v8 years back had a terrible lifter tick the car was heading to the scrap yard so we decided to drain the oil and re-fill it with strait diesel fuel no oil, we ran it at low rpm's for a wile and it cleaned it up stopped the tick he decided to run the car yet, it ran fine for years to come then he did junk it.
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