Simple Repairs made MORE Difficult

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Originally Posted By: linksep
Originally Posted By: asand1
Setting the engine/trans on a table and lifting the car off...


Unfortunately that's been getting WAY too common... To replace timing belts on a Ferrari, sure, the owners can afford that and there's only a couple thousand people in the world that will ever even have cause to whine about it.

Lifting the car off the engine to replace spark plugs on a 1993-2002 Camaro? Don't think the typical Camaro owner has/had the budget for that. (Yes, I know there was a TSB or something that changed the procedure to "drill access holes in the inner-fender").

Removing the engine to reseal the oil pan on a 1992-2002 Cadillac Eldorado? Sure, maybe the original owner won't live long enough for the pan to leak, but some poor sucker years down the road is gonna end up with that car...


Yeah oil pan leaks on Northstar engines are a real downer. Have to drop the exhaust, which is right under the pan... Seems simple. But to get the exhaust off the transmission has to come out- and of course to get that out, you have to drop the sub frame. I've done that before, working on my back as at the time the shop I worked for didn't have a lift.
 
On the 2nd Gen F Body Trans Ams you accessed the spark plugs through the front fender wells. Replacing plugs on the 1969-1970 required removing the P/S pump.
 
Originally Posted By: Lubener
I read somewhere where you have to remove the bumper to change a head light on an Audi. Also some late model Chryslers, you have to remove the left front tire and the plastic inner fender panel to remove the battery.


On my 03 A6, the front bumper has to come off to remove the headlight assembly because one bolt is obstructed by the lip of the bumper cover. Many guys would take those bolts out at their first timing belt service so if they ever needed/wanted to remove the headlights it was much easier. To replace just the bulb, that can be done without bumper removal but it's tight.

Also, to remove the rain cover for the ECU on my A6 I first had to remove the two windscreen wipers and arms. Then the rain deflector pops off and then the last screw for the cover can be accessed. That screw did not go back in upon installation of everything else.
 
Every single one of them is a genuine PITA in one way or another.
The real old cars are some of the worst, many parts were tweaked and hand fit, not uncommon either to find oddball threads and sizes.

After much thought, the easiest car i ever worked on was a 1965 Ford Cortina GT 1500 (non lotus). If you could get by the horrific positive ground Lucas electrics the whole car could be serviced and rebuilt with basic hand tools and a #2 Phillips.
 
On my girlfriend's '01 Grand Am v6, in order to change the serpentine belt the passenger side motor mount bolts must be removed, then the entire engine jacked up about 1 inch.
 
Audi A4 - everything was much more difficult than necessary - except driveshafts - those were easy.

My FX45 needs a liquid filled rear differential support bushing replaced - it only comes as part of a complete rear subframe. About stupid.
 
Another one I can think of off the top of my head is the thermostat in a GM 3.1. One of the two bolts is obstructed by the exhaust crossover pipe. What?
 
It's not just Audi. To change a headlight bulb on a 02-06 Nissan Altima you have to take the front bumper off.

I think you may be able to change it by disconnecting things inside the engine bay to make room, but the Nissan factory service manual and owner's manual says to take the front bumper off. rofl
 
Oil pan gasket on my old Buick Regal.
Steering rack in just about anything is a PITA.
Power steering pump on FWD 3800.

Seems any timing belt I have done, except for a MoPar 2.2/2.5 has been some of my least favorite maintenance.

Plugs and wire on any 4th Gen F-body are poop.
 
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the Chrysler PT Cruiser. So many things about it are annoying that I don't really want to think about it.

They put a transverse engine where there should have been a longitudinal engine.
 
Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork
In a current thread, the OP says to change his Mazda Radiator, the bumper has to come off.

Another poster said to change his serpentine belt, a motor mount had to be removed.

Vehicles today are made better and repairs may be less frequent,
but for the DIYer, more frustrating.

I have a 2002 Ford Ranger that when I do simple repairs, it's not to difficult to work on. I have easily done:
* Air & fuel filter
* Plugs & wires
* Shocks
* Change all 6 fluids
* Radiator

Only once did I have to take it to a Mechanic because of a coolant leak around the timing chain cover. The skill level was beyond me.

Question: What repairs have you done where you could not believe the vehicle was designed that way.

Make / Model:
Year:
Broken part & What had to be removed:


1984 Ford Escort Diesel
Changing the timing belt. According to the service manual, the first step was, "remove engine".
 
Originally Posted By: HangFire
The old 70's Opel Manta took the cake for me. You cannot pull the engine, you must drop it, which involves removing the rack & pinion VERY CAREFULLY which is "not recommended". I junked it. No one rescued it.

All Detroit ball joints that I've ever replaced. All hot riveted. But when I had some replaced on my Dakota on recall, the dealer's new ones had bolts and nuts. Curious how that's not good enough for production but it's better for the recall.


Quicker on the assembly line.

Quote:
99 Ford Taurus starter solenoid wire was permanently wired into the harness. To replace it the aftermarket part had a splicing kit. I suppose Ford thought they were so good they never needed replacing? Or maybe it was just a disposable car.


Again: quicker on the assembly line. Also, one less plug is one less point of failure.
 
1978 Ford LTD-

To change the blower motor for the heater, you must remove the passenger front wheel and cut a hole in the rear of the wheel well. There's an indentation for this purpose. the repair manual from Ford also lists a patch panel for this, but I've never seen one.
 
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
Another one I can think of off the top of my head is the thermostat in a GM 3.1. One of the two bolts is obstructed by the exhaust crossover pipe.


Depends on the vintage. On the older MPFI version, the thermostat is wide open with easy access. On the later SFI 3100 (and 3400) engines, not so much.

There's a little L-shaped wrench available to make this task a lot easier.
 
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Having to remove or disconnect 1 engine mount is pretty common on a lot of FWD car, even in the 90s.

Don't even tell me about those 3G/4G Taurus radiator that has to come from the bottom...


Did my wife's 3rd Gen about 4 months ago. I thought from the bottom!? Turned out to be pretty easy and did it at night in the driveway.
 
Water pump on my pre-3800 is a pain. Also, the magnet for the cam sensor requires removing the timing cover.
Removing the air filter requires wrenches, NO quick release tabs. Other than that, she's pretty easy to work on.

Things on the 3800 got increasingly more complicated as years went by, but nothing compared to most new stuff out there.

Car companies don't want you doing anything anymore, including checking trans fluid! "We" can't be trusted anymore.

Society as a whole has gone in that direction and it's very sad.
 
Originally Posted By: babyivan

Removing the air filter requires wrenches, NO quick release tabs. Other than that, she's pretty easy to work on.

This was one thing that annoyed me about my 2002 VW Jetta 1.8T

Why would anyone need 20 screws to hold that kind of air filter in place?
 
Worst cars by far are Audis

Everything seems to be difficult and time consuming on an Audi.

I was borrowing my mom's Audi 4000 years ago and it spontaneously threw its belts. The new alternator belt could be put back on but the A/C belt required removal of an engine mount.

I was doing an install on a recent model Audi about a month ago. Guess where I found the relay panel?
Under the windshield washer reservoir.
Of all the places in the world to put a relay panel! Why under something that people pour a solution that often contains something corrosive like methanol?

It's like an economic system imposed on the buyer. Wolfgang spent many years to become an Audi technician. Who are you to deny him his livelihood by doing your own repairs? We will make it so that you must do this as a full time job to do simple repairs and maintenance.

I hate the Mercedes ML and the Cherokee and Durango that are based on it. It is difficult to get to the battery (under the passenger front seat) and I wonder how long it will be until someone puts the wrong battery in, it outgasses, and someone inside lights a cigarette blowing up everyone in the car.
 
Originally Posted By: Spazdog


I hate the Mercedes ML and the Cherokee and Durango that are based on it. It is difficult to get to the battery (under the passenger front seat) and I wonder how long it will be until someone puts the wrong battery in, it outgasses, and someone inside lights a cigarette blowing up everyone in the car.

Batteries belong under the hood, IMO. BMW likes to put them under the back seat, iirc... and for what reason I have no idea
 
Quote:
=Spazdog It is difficult to get to the battery (under the passenger front seat) and I wonder how long it will be until someone puts the wrong battery in, it outgasses, and someone inside lights a cigarette blowing up everyone in the car.


That is a stupid design.
 
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