best 0W20

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
You don't need or want a 0wXx in Texas.
I'll give you the OK to run 5w20 with a 1/2 Qt of Dual Rated fleet HDEO 10w30 thrown in for good benefit

**cough**, **cough**...bovine scatology! I assume this is a reference to the heat in Texas? My FX4 has not found a problem with switching to a 0W-20 diet in Texas, Montana, Wyoming, or New Mexico in the blistering heat...




Just goes to show that facts and data don't get into arco's way when telling a good story

 

[0w20something]

I just went by a Honda dealership here in south Houston. They want $8.90 per quart for the Honda 0W20 Full Synthetic. I then stopped by a Toyota dealership And got a case of quarts for $75.00 plus tax. Great price I think for such a high grade 0W20. I am sticking with Amsoil filters for now.

 

[kschachn]

OK, if you think so. I suppose that's what is most important.

Originally Posted By: 0w20something
I then stopped by a Toyota dealership And got a case of quarts for $75.00 plus tax. Great price I think for such a high grade 0W20. I am sticking with Amsoil filters for now.

 

[Nate1979]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Whimsey
Originally Posted By: Nate1979
City Star or Bullseye if they make 0w-20

It saves you the angst of your oil turning from amber to black, it comes out of the bottle already black and preloaded the contaminants

.

Whimsey


Not Wolf's Head - thats a pretty good oil.



Wolf's Head is good oil.

I think he was making reference to the PQIA couldn't identify what was in Bullseye or City star ... it was a mix of used oil , some coolant, ATF and who knows what else.


Well they do have a unique add pack

. Yes I was definitely joking.

 

[MobilinHyundia]

Bullseye!!

The worst of the worst!

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
OK, if you think so. I suppose that's what is most important.

Originally Posted By: 0w20something
I then stopped by a Toyota dealership And got a case of quarts for $75.00 plus tax. Great price I think for such a high grade 0W20. I am sticking with Amsoil filters for now.


Agreed, for something that only has "SN" as it's performance specification, it sure makes people feel good.

 

[CT8]

Freeway driving is the easiest driving an engine can see.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: kschachn
OK, if you think so. I suppose that's what is most important.

Originally Posted By: 0w20something
I then stopped by a Toyota dealership And got a case of quarts for $75.00 plus tax. Great price I think for such a high grade 0W20. I am sticking with Amsoil filters for now.


Agreed, for something that only has "SN" as it's performance specification, it sure makes people feel good.


Yes, but if that's all the automobile mfr requires, there's really no need to use oil certified for Formula1 or WRC duties. Not my cup of tea either, mind you, but to each his own.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
Why does everyone prefer TGMO over the Mazda 0w20?


I'm guessing it is mainly because of lower cost per quart, with secondary reasons being; availability, and it being made here in the USA, by XOM.

But yes, the Idemitsu made MGMO does have a higher VI, and more moly (IF the TGMO has the older, 'dimer' type moly in it and not the newer, 'trimer' type, but who knows??).

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
BTW TGMO is ANY oil that meets ILSAC gf5 in the recommended weight. SO, if your Toyota dealer uses Wolf's Head or Peak 0w20 in bulk - for servicing - that's TGMO.


None of that is accurate.

Toyota Genuine Motor Oil is not a specification, and it's not "whatever the dealer uses"; it's a product that is sold by the Toyota parts network. Peak 0W-20 in bulk drums is not Toyota Genuine Motor Oil. Wolf's Head 0W-20 in bulk drums is not Toyota Genuine Motor Oil. Mobil 1 0W-20 in bulk drums is not Toyota Genuine Motor Oil.

Toyota Genuine Motor Oil is Toyota Genuine Motor Oil. It can be purchased by the bottle from the dealer's parts counter. It can sometimes be purchased out of a bulk drum. If the dealer uses other oil in their drums, and they fill your container with it, you won't be getting Toyota Genuine Motor Oil; you'll be getting "whatever the dealer uses".

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
You don't need or want a 0wXx in Texas.


0W-XX will operate just the same, or even better, than 5W-XX...even in Texas. If paying for synthetic oil, there's very little reason to not use a 0W-XX, especially in a Toyota GR engine or a Honda K engine.

Jason, well said.
Sorry you are incorrect in correcting me this time. Yes bottles of (XoM) TGMO on the parts shelves is TGMO wher current spec.
But
Do you want to see the Toyota motor company TSB describing what TGMO IS?

 

[Koz1]

I like the Mazda with Molys specs, I cant even buy it in Canada.
TGMO is the best deal and a great 0w20.
My first OC will be TGMO.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
You don't need or want a 0wXx in Texas.
I'll give you the OK to run 5w20 with a 1/2 Qt of Dual Rated fleet HDEO 10w30 thrown in for good benefit

**cough**, **cough**...bovine scatology! I assume this is a reference to the heat in Texas? My FX4 has not found a problem with switching to a 0W-20 diet in Texas, Montana, Wyoming, or New Mexico in the blistering heat...




Just goes to show that facts and data don't get into arco's way when telling a good story


Go ahead and use your false, bargain priced, non-synthetic 0w20 with tons of varnish causing vii and poor additisation. And Yes it fails (at minimum 1 of 2) TEOST and is given a waiver for CAFE reasons.

You see how well this stuff works in a highly stressed engines, ne: my cars.

5w20 is a nice multigrade as it DOESNT require a high % of vm or require a high % of non-polar hydro-finised stock. I would challenge that there is NO REALISABLE benefit to running a 0w20 in Texas whatsoever. Building high vm in a group III blend is not uber alles or without a downside in stressed applications.

Continue to PRETEND like you pretend most synthetic sold in North America is a technical Synthetic lubricant.
Nice brainwashing job, Big Oil!

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
You don't need or want a 0wXx in Texas.
I'll give you the OK to run 5w20 with a 1/2 Qt of Dual Rated fleet HDEO 10w30 thrown in for good benefit

**cough**, **cough**...bovine scatology! I assume this is a reference to the heat in Texas? My FX4 has not found a problem with switching to a 0W-20 diet in Texas, Montana, Wyoming, or New Mexico in the blistering heat...




Just goes to show that facts and data don't get into arco's way when telling a good story


Go ahead and use your false, bargain priced, non-synthetic 0w20 with tons of varnish causing vii and poor additisation. And Yes it fails (at minimum 1 of 2) TEOST and is given a waiver for CAFE reasons.

You see how well this stuff works in a highly stressed engines, ne: my cars.

5w20 is a nice multigrade as it DOESNT require a high % of vm or require a high % of non-polar hydro-finised stock. I would challenge that there is NO REALISABLE benefit to running a 0w20 in Texas whatsoever. Building high vm in a group III blend is not uber alles or without a downside in stressed applications.

Continue to PRETEND like you pretend most synthetic sold in North America is a technical Synthetic lubricant.
Nice brainwashing job, Big Oil!


If he's running M1 EP 0w-20 he's using a "true synthetic" (going by the German definition) because it is 70% PAO.

 

[kschachn]

Man, you've jumped the shark. I used to kinda half read your posts but this is ridiculous.

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Go ahead and use your false, bargain priced, non-synthetic 0w20 with tons of varnish causing vii and poor additisation. And Yes it fails (at minimum 1 of 2) TEOST and is given a waiver for CAFE reasons.

You see how well this stuff works in a highly stressed engines, ne: my cars.

5w20 is a nice multigrade as it DOESNT require a high % of vm or require a high % of non-polar hydro-finised stock. I would challenge that there is NO REALISABLE benefit to running a 0w20 in Texas whatsoever. Building high vm in a group III blend is not uber alles or without a downside in stressed applications.

Continue to PRETEND like you pretend most synthetic sold in North America is a technical Synthetic lubricant.
Nice brainwashing job, Big Oil!

 

[tig1]

Arco implies 0-20 causes varnish. Here's a pic of my Fusion at 145K with 10K OCIs. M1 0-20.

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Arco implies 0-20 causes varnish. Here's a pic of my Fusion at 145K with 10K OCIs. M1 0-20.


No, he implied using cheap 0W20s with poor VIIs would cause it, not M1.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: tig1
Arco implies 0-20 causes varnish. Here's a pic of my Fusion at 145K with 10K OCIs. M1 0-20.


No, he implied using cheap 0W20s with poor VIIs would cause it, not M1.


And how would we know which 0W-20's those are?

 

[Koz1]

PAO comes from Ethylene which primarily comes from crude oil.
Shell and other Company's make Base stocks from Methane gas but they are only considered a Type 3 base stock (Not true Synthetic)which is total and absolute [censored].
PAO is not the only syn get over this garbage info.
Both are a GTL type Synthetic baseoil.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL


If he's running M1 EP 0w-20 he's using a "true synthetic" (going by the German definition) because it is 70% PAO.
Show me.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL


If he's running M1 EP 0w-20 he's using a "true synthetic" (going by the German definition) because it is 70% PAO.
Show me.
Show me. ++

M1 0w30 AFE was technical but isn't anymore at last look. Same would go for 0w20 which is an easier formulation.
Anyway, I've run the old majority PAO formulation and it was a good oil.

Recently Only 0w20 Valvoline kept the 2001 FB25 Subaru wet TC system free and operating and only 0w20 Valvoline showed no varnish on left side VVT housing (through the fill.) Of course Varnish on Rings lands is more important and I can see it but can feel poor cyl-cyl balance. Oils used over 10 OCI were: Subaru(Idemitsu), M1, QSGB, and VSP.

++ I recall the Korean MSDS as the only way to know formulation rather than a good showing thru expository rheology and certain revelatory ASTM standardized tests).