95 1.8 Miata change oil change lifter tick

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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I'd go back to 10W30 conventional.


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If you really have the miata HLA tick, and many if not most have it to one degree or another, what seems to work for most folks is a high detergent oil like Rotella T6 5W-40. The reason is a high detergent oil will help clean out the tiny orifices in the lifters, making it easier for them to fill while the engine is running. Short ocis also seem to help during the cleaning process. I used 5k mile oci. Worked for me.

After five or six sessions with T6 I switched to Mobil1 0W-40 and the motor remains quiet. No offense, but I wouldn't use conventional, nor would I use a 10W-30. The goal is good cleaning and good flow quickly. A conventional 10W-30 isn't optimum for meeting those goals.

If your pistons are kissing carbon on the heads, that's an entirely different animal, but I doubt that's the case. Btw, what year is the car?
 
Originally Posted By: RedOakRanch
That's a common miata problem after hard cornering. I used to have one and it did it with all oils. I think you have to put baffles in the pan but I could be wrong. It will be all over miata forums.
Miatas have excellent oiling during cornering and absolutely do not need oil pan baffles. If your pressure drops during cornering in a miata you're 3 quarts low.
 
Originally Posted By: quarterliter
You sure premium isn't required for the miata? CR isn't everything
Premium is completely unnecessary in a stock '95 Miata with timing set at factory specs.
 
Originally Posted By: quarterliter
I would go T6 5w40. Seems like oil pressure is dropping as temp skyrockets. Plus bearing clearances at 230k are larger than stock so going up in viscosity may be a smart choice.
I agree that this is part of the cause, making marginal oiling of the lifters even more marginal. T6 will help because it's a bit thicker, but mostly because it will clean out the lifters.

While on the topic of heat, make sure your cooling system is 100%. Lower coolant temperatures will help, though I would use the factory thermostat.
 
Yeah another miata owner at the course was showing me how his radiator was black and mine was brown. Gotta get on that asap.
 
Originally Posted By: Le_bow_ski
Originally Posted By: quarterliter
You sure premium isn't required for the miata? CR isn't everything
Premium is completely unnecessary in a stock '95 Miata with timing set at factory specs.


Correct! Even in the desert southwest... I've never had to use premium in my '94.
 
Originally Posted By: Le_bow_ski
Originally Posted By: RedOakRanch
That's a common miata problem after hard cornering. I used to have one and it did it with all oils. I think you have to put baffles in the pan but I could be wrong. It will be all over miata forums.
Miatas have excellent oiling during cornering and absolutely do not need oil pan baffles. If your pressure drops during cornering in a miata you're 3 quarts low.


Bingo!!
 
Originally Posted By: Le_bow_ski
If you really have the miata HLA tick, and many if not most have it to one degree or another, what seems to work for most folks is a high detergent oil like Rotella T6 5W-40. The reason is a high detergent oil will help clean out the tiny orifices in the lifters, making it easier for them to fill while the engine is running. Short ocis also seem to help during the cleaning process. I used 5k mile oci. Worked for me.

After five or six sessions with T6 I switched to Mobil1 0W-40 and the motor remains quiet. No offense, but I wouldn't use conventional, nor would I use a 10W-30. The goal is good cleaning and good flow quickly. A conventional 10W-30 isn't optimum for meeting those goals.

If your pistons are kissing carbon on the heads, that's an entirely different animal, but I doubt that's the case. Btw, what year is the car?


Agreed, it's most likely NOT a piston-carbon issue. This is such a common complaint of 99% of all Miatas with HLA adjusters.

I've pretty much decided that the ticking starts to happen approximately 3k after the initial oil change - no matter what oil I choose. Thicker grades often solve the "hot tick" issue while 0w-5w-xx oils flow better and solve the cold ticks.

Many owners on the Miata forum experiment with different grades
until they find results for their cars. I've heard good things about Rotella 5w-40. I personally have tried over a 1/2 dozen oils in my car and found success with Chevron 5w-30 conventional in the cooler months. With over 200k on mine, it seems to like 10w-40 in the hot summer months.
 
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M1 is famous for being noisy in some engines, but since it cured your initial startup noise I'd think a 5w30 (or 5w40) would be the way to go, rather than the 10wXX.

I'd be inclined to try a move away from M1 and see what happens.
 
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Yeah Rotella is definitely next and I think I'm going with 5w40. The main reason I got the M1 is because I got a great deal on 5 quarts of M1 Synthetic and a Bosch filter for $22.
 
I agree with JGmazda about HLA noise returning after 3K miles with various different oils. Has anyone tried Joe Gibbs DT40? I'm really impressed with the viscosity retention this 5W40 has in Porsches. Some of the Miata's HLA noise may just be the design of early 1.8 as this doesn't seem to happen on later cars. The later cars had more combustion chamber squish clearance too so are really quiet.

BTW, for good running on regular gas be sure to adjust timing to specs. It tends to retard with timing belt wear and isn't computer corrected on early 1.8 that don't have knock sensors.
 
Mazda cured the lifter noise problem by eliminating the hydraulic lifters in 1999.

Like JGmazda and JCC I too noticed the return of HLA noise with about 3k miles on the oil, at which point I'd change it. Eventually, as the lifters became cleaner, the interval of relative freedom from HLA noise became greater.

What always causes HLA noise in my '94 (170k miles) is extended idling; probably because of the lower oil pressure at reduced rpms. Once back on the open road the ticking goes away.
 
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