Varnish Treatment

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Originally Posted By: Zaedock
I rebuild engines and was curious how you verified everything was clean. Given your response, I'll take a gander you looked through the fill hole, which is cool.


Yeah I just looked thru the fill hole. I could see that the top of the head with the rocker arms, push rods, valve springs, valve spring washers, and head bolts all looked like bare metal again. No brownish tint anymore.
 
I know some think AutoRx is snake oil and I respect that. I used to think the same until I tried it in several applications. One was in my trail Jeep after I installed a low mile replacement engine after a tough roll over (couldn't shut the engine down in time). It had a slight weep from the timing cover that has been p'ssah for quite a few years now. A HM oil may have worked also, but I bought several bottles for less $ and figured I'd try it out.

I also used it in a friends neglected Jeep 258. At the time, the recommended clean and rinse phase was 3,000 miles with conventional. I didn't see my friend for about twice the interval on each phase and the results after the rinse blew me away. I used Delo SAE30 from my stash and the oil filter was like a solid brick of pOOp. It was pretty awesome.
 
no worrries, it does make sense totally, I just figured that by 3 it was kaput as in its cleaning ability, I know its a waste in the sense that the tbn is probably still stellar. But Im gonna stretch it out this time, I'm going to have to lock up the fresh 0w40 I got this weekend and give someone other than I the key so i don't get itchy oil fingers in a few thousand k.
 
A dude on the commodore website said using the Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 used at 5000 km intervals changing both oil and filter cleaned up his VX supercharged v6 commodore after it had been serviced by the dealer.

After a couple of oil changes he could see the shiny metal thorough the rocker cover oil filler beginning to appear again.

If do go for the Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 or some other brand in the first OCI for the cleanup process do this oil filter thing
1. change the filter early say at 1200 km-1500 km top up and
2. then oil filter again around 3000 km top up and
3. then change the oil and filter at 5000 km.

This process will help prevent the varnish layers as the oil layers are removed due to the differing chemistry from clogging up the filter and new layer deposited in the change over process. Some on this board may tell you its not longer necessary to change the filter. I would recommend you do oil filter thing its cheap insurance plus you are adding fresh oil/additives as top up.

In the second OCI cycle I would change the oil filter at mid point say 2500 km top up and then change oil and filter at 5000 km.

Myself I would go for a semi synthetic. I am currently using the Penrite Everyday Plus 5w-40 and will switch to the Penrite semi synthetic Diesel 5 with a 5w-40 viscosity next oil change in about 2000 kms.
 
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Spetz

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And is a high mileage oil necessary if I am using something like Auto RX?


Forget the AutoRx. These high mileage oils work plenty well by themselves.


I agree.

I would try the cleaning process WITHOUT the Auto-RX in the first couple of OCIs. Terry a long time chemist/analyst member on this forum (he provided an oil analysis service as he was in that business) sometime ago claimed it was the real deal.

With the quality of current oils Auto-RX may no longer be required. When I made this statement about 5 years ago on this forum Auto-RX Frank the formulator of the product got upset. You can always try it later; if at all.
 
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Virginoil, the reason I was looking at Auto RX is that time is somewhat crucial for me currently.

I am at 192K km and my 200K service is coming up which is an expensive one.

The engine uses oil and I suspect it is the valve seals.

I want to put new valve seals in but only after cleaning the varnish, and before the 200K service is due as if the valve seals do not fix my oil consumption then I assume the valve guides are worn too.
Meaning if the heads go for a service it would be cost beneficial to do that with the timing belt, radiator flush etc (200K service)
 
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