about those belt dressings
- Thread starter rhondas
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Snake oil and never use on a serpentine belt.
Whatever you do, don't use it on a serpentine belt. It only works on V-belts. Personally, I'll never use that [censored] ever again. It makes a terrible mess by splattering black sticky pieces of rubber all over the engine. And it's immune to any kind of engine cleaner.
NO DRESSINGS ON ANY BELTS OF ANY KIND
/rant
Nobody that I'm aware of uses belt dressing on automobiles anymore.
If you have belt squeaking problem (presumably serpentine belts you dealing with), it's caused by the belt and/or poor pulley alignments.
water pump, idle-tensioner pulley, auto serpentine belt tensioner, etc. will all contribute to belt squeaking/squealing when they are mechanically in-question.
Sometimes, certain crankshaft arrangements will cause groaning.
Q.
If you have belt squeaking problem (presumably serpentine belts you dealing with), it's caused by the belt and/or poor pulley alignments.
water pump, idle-tensioner pulley, auto serpentine belt tensioner, etc. will all contribute to belt squeaking/squealing when they are mechanically in-question.
Sometimes, certain crankshaft arrangements will cause groaning.
Q.
I've used them before. Made the belt kind of tacky and the rubber softened up somewhat,more supple and less dry and prone to cracking.
Any of my vehicles that get the winter off get a spray of belt dressing prior the fogging the intake then unhooking the battery.
I never had any problems like the ones being described in this thread. I can say for certain that the brand I use(co-op) increases the tackiness and thereby eliminates slip and keeps the belt from cracking by keeping the rubber supple and softish.
I don't know what merkava is referring to and its certainly not snake oil. And I've never had a serpentine belt failure either.
Coincidence?
Any of my vehicles that get the winter off get a spray of belt dressing prior the fogging the intake then unhooking the battery.
I never had any problems like the ones being described in this thread. I can say for certain that the brand I use(co-op) increases the tackiness and thereby eliminates slip and keeps the belt from cracking by keeping the rubber supple and softish.
I don't know what merkava is referring to and its certainly not snake oil. And I've never had a serpentine belt failure either.
Coincidence?
Funniest belt dressing experience was in the late 90s commissioning an MDF plant.
Plant had a lot of belt drive fans, 400hp, 4-6 V-belts on multi groove pulleys. Multiple V-Belt drives need matched belts, or the short one takes the brunt, glazes, then loads up the next.
http://gatesbeltsandapplications.blogspot.com.au/2011/09/v-belt-matching.html
No matched sets (was late 90s, and fairly remote), but a lot of belts in store, and the fitter fitted them.
Motors were started "Star-Delta"... http://electricalnotes.wordpress.com/2012/03/16/star-delta-starter/ and often had a decent "chirp" from the belt on the change in motor torque.
Unmatched belt set, meant that there was bulk slippage on the low torque part of run-up, when the short belt was taking the load.
Loads of belt dressing got the slippage controllable, until the "change", when black stuff flew everywhere, and canvas started flapping...write that up to experience...then do it all over again.
Plant had a lot of belt drive fans, 400hp, 4-6 V-belts on multi groove pulleys. Multiple V-Belt drives need matched belts, or the short one takes the brunt, glazes, then loads up the next.
http://gatesbeltsandapplications.blogspot.com.au/2011/09/v-belt-matching.html
No matched sets (was late 90s, and fairly remote), but a lot of belts in store, and the fitter fitted them.
Motors were started "Star-Delta"... http://electricalnotes.wordpress.com/2012/03/16/star-delta-starter/ and often had a decent "chirp" from the belt on the change in motor torque.
Unmatched belt set, meant that there was bulk slippage on the low torque part of run-up, when the short belt was taking the load.
Loads of belt dressing got the slippage controllable, until the "change", when black stuff flew everywhere, and canvas started flapping...write that up to experience...then do it all over again.
YEARS AGO a friend's father-in-law, who was a farmer with lots of equipment to coax life out of, swore running a belt loose with a shot of dressing once in a while was the way to go.
...but that was a long, long time ago in a lifestyle which has passed. Kira
ps Shannow: What's an MDF plant?
...but that was a long, long time ago in a lifestyle which has passed. Kira
ps Shannow: What's an MDF plant?
Originally Posted By: Kira
ps Shannow: What's an MDF plant?
Medium Density Fibreboard, aka craftwood etc.
We were light on work in the late '90s, so I was hired out to be commissioning engineer on one of them.
http://www.siempelkamp.com/fileadmin/med...s_lines-eng.pdf
ps Shannow: What's an MDF plant?
Medium Density Fibreboard, aka craftwood etc.
We were light on work in the late '90s, so I was hired out to be commissioning engineer on one of them.
http://www.siempelkamp.com/fileadmin/med...s_lines-eng.pdf
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Snake oil and never use on a serpentine belt.
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Gee thanks , because that's all I have on both vehicles my pathfinder and my Sonata there's is nothing but serpentine belts
Snake oil and never use on a serpentine belt.
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Gee thanks , because that's all I have on both vehicles my pathfinder and my Sonata there's is nothing but serpentine belts
You got to think.... "Why is the rubber softening" "How does this stuff work?"
Like others have said - all you are doing is kick-starting a breakdown of your belts. Except, instead of dry-rotting from compounds volatilizing out of the rubber, you're adding chemicals to break it down back into it's components - in lay mans.
Stay away from stuff like this. 99% of the time, a "quick-fix" is really just a messed up way to get home. After that - you gotta fix it the right way or else you're just hurting yourself in the end.
Another way to look at it - $150 for new belts at a shop vs. $5 for a can of dressing and $2,500 for a new engine when that belt fails the wrong way.
Like others have said - all you are doing is kick-starting a breakdown of your belts. Except, instead of dry-rotting from compounds volatilizing out of the rubber, you're adding chemicals to break it down back into it's components - in lay mans.
Stay away from stuff like this. 99% of the time, a "quick-fix" is really just a messed up way to get home. After that - you gotta fix it the right way or else you're just hurting yourself in the end.
Another way to look at it - $150 for new belts at a shop vs. $5 for a can of dressing and $2,500 for a new engine when that belt fails the wrong way.
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