Dr Haas' Motor Oil University Article

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Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Shannow
A lot of 101 is continuation if old wive's tales, written in an era when access to actual science and information was more easy than ever (not microfiche in a University Library, like it was back in the day).

I've been to the university library a few times over the past number of years. The last time I was in the public library, they still had microfiches, but that was over twenty years ago. I should go back there and ask to be directed to them. Oh, that and the typewriter room.
wink.gif



Ha.
Awesome. Micro-fiche. I remember those. You needed them to find the book you were looking for.
Its funny. Looking for a book at the library used to be a multiple step ordeal,now I google it off my phone or iPad and start reading.
 
Can we please get that article taken down or removed? I don't like the idea of perpetuating false or outdated information.
 
Just out of curiosity, why exactly is that article featured on the main page of the site? I mean absolutely no disrespect to AEHaas, but why feature just one user's viewpoints prominently on the main page like that, especially when some of the points seem to contradict more recent information and the general consensus on this site?
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Has he tried TGMO 0W20 yet?

Running a Ford OEM oil is one thing (he does have Ford Expedition I beleive) but I can't see him swinging by the local Toyota/Lexus dealership to pick up oil with Toyota emblazoned on the bottle, even though it is made by Mobil, and he has used M1 oils in the past. That said it certainly would fit with his philosophy of having the lightest oil possible on start-up at room temperature, but being even lighter than Motorcraft 5W-20 at operating temp's, if he asked me I wouldn't recommend it, not of course without first thickening up with some M1 0W-40.

If I owned that car I'd skip the 20 grade altogether and consider trying M1 0w40 all by itself.

But then you wouldn't be optimizing the operational viscosity which is the whole point.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Has he tried TGMO 0W20 yet?

Running a Ford OEM oil is one thing (he does have Ford Expedition I beleive) but I can't see him swinging by the local Toyota/Lexus dealership to pick up oil with Toyota emblazoned on the bottle, even though it is made by Mobil, and he has used M1 oils in the past. That said it certainly would fit with his philosophy of having the lightest oil possible on start-up at room temperature, but being even lighter than Motorcraft 5W-20 at operating temp's, if he asked me I wouldn't recommend it, not of course without first thickening up with some M1 0W-40.

If I owned that car I'd skip the 20 grade altogether and consider trying M1 0w40 all by itself.

But then you wouldn't be optimizing the operational viscosity which is the whole point.


What are the grades of oil recommended for his engine by the mfg? If they recommend 5W20, I stand corrected and take my statement back.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
But then you wouldn't be optimizing the operational viscosity which is the whole point.


Read the last couple of tables in the University, and the "science" of flow versus pressure displayed, the statements that more flow = more lubrication, et al,

If that is the "science" behind "optimising" the operational viscosity, then he's lucky something hasn't blown on him...it's worse than a half ar$sed guess...if based on the theories portrayed as fact.
 
Originally Posted By: windeye
I started reading the article by Dr Haas in the Motor Oil University section, not yet finished. In describing the formulation difference of mineral multigrade oil and synthetic multigrade oil, he stated that mineral 10W-30 (example of multi-grade) uses straight 10 oil and then VII to make it thicker to meet 100C viscosity, while as synthetic 10W-30 oil uses straight 30 oil and no VII's. Is this correct? Then how does synthetic 10W-30 meet 10W requirement? Excerpt as follows:

Quote:


A 10W-30 multi-grade mineral based oil is made from a 10 grade oil and has VI improvers added to thicken the product in a 212°F engine. It acts as a 30 grade oil when hot. It acts more as a 10 grade oil at startup. I remind you that a 10, 5 or 2 grade oil is still too thick to provide lubrication at startup. They are all too thick at startup. There is currently no engine oil thin enough to operate correctly at startup. They all cause excessive wear at startup. Again, we are discussing the needs of my single hypothetical engine for around town driving.

Oil Type Thickness at 75° F Thickness at 212° F
Straight 30 250 10
10W-30 100 10
0W-30 40 10
Straight 10 30 6
Straight 5 20 4
Straight 2 15 3
Straight 0 12 3 ( est )
( Oil Types – Synthetic / Straight varying Thickness )

Let’s look at the make up of synthetic based oils. A 10W-30 synthetic oil is based on a 30 grade oil. This is unlike the counterpart mineral oil based on a 10 grade oil. There is no VI improver needed. The oil is already correct for the normal operating temperature of 212°F. It has a thickness of 10 while you drive to work. It will never thin yet has the same long term problem as the mineral based oil. They both thicken with extended age.


That statement by Dr Haas is not correct. There is no fundamental difference between the formulation of conventional oils and synthetic oils. Without viscosity-index improvers, they would both be thinner at 100 C than with viscosity-index improvers.

However, it's true that synthetic oils have lower concentration of viscosity-index improvers because the base-oil viscosity indexes are higher. Therefore, if the base oil used in a conventional 5W-30 oil has a 4 cSt (@ 100 C) viscosity, the base oil used in a synthetic 5W-30 oil may have a 6 cSt viscosity. (The resulting 5W-30 oil has about 10 cSt viscosity.) That's because the concentration of viscosity-index improvers is less in the synthetic oil, as the base oil has a higher viscosity index. Base oils can be chosen such that the concentration of viscosity-index improvers can be under 3% for a synthetic 0W-20 or 5W-30. This will result in very little permanent oil shear (viscosity loss) and help reduce oil deposits greatly. Nevertheless, note that many synthetic oils sold out there have a lot of viscosity-index improvers in them -- usually less than in conventional oils but still a lot more than 3%.

That article makes some very good points. I especially like the discussion of oil pressure and oil flow. However, it makes some serious false statements regarding basic lubrication as well. One would be the one above. Here is another one:

"As it turns out synthetic oils do cling to parts better as they have higher film strength than mineral oils. Synthetics are thinner overall. They have greater slipperiness. Yet they stick better to engine parts. Again, this concept is the opposite of normal thinking."

This paragraph makes so many blatantly false statements at once that it's almost ridiculous. Most synthetic base oils (except for esters) have poor lubricity and solubility and they don't cling to metal parts -- they are dry oils. (Esters have their own problems -- they block the AW/EP/FM additives and increase wear if used alone.) Synthetics are not thinner in general -- they come in any viscosity. It's true that they have less surface friction. However, they don't stick well to the engine parts -- they have low lubricity. They don't have higher oil-film strength. On the contrary, they have lower oil-film strength due to lower pressure - viscosity coefficients as well as lower lubricity.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
demarpaint said:
What are the grades of oil recommended for his engine by the mfg? If they recommend 5W20, I stand corrected and take my statement back.

This isn't about what you would do. It's also not about what grade the mfg is recommending but rather maintaining a safe operational viscosity for the way Ali Haas and his wife operate their cars.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
demarpaint said:
What are the grades of oil recommended for his engine by the mfg? If they recommend 5W20, I stand corrected and take my statement back.

This isn't about what you would do. It's also not about what grade the mfg is recommending but rather maintaining a safe operational viscosity for the way Ali Haas and his wife operate their cars.



By all means, and if he has a problem I'm sure he has the $$ to fix it if things go bad.
 
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
The Dr seems a straight up guy and if the lighter oil caused problems, I'm sure he would have told us by now.

He'd just use it as an excuse to buy a new Ferrari or Lambo.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
The Dr seems a straight up guy and if the lighter oil caused problems, I'm sure he would have told us by now.

He has posted all the UOAs of what he has run over the years.
I'm looking forward to his posting of the UOA of the Motorcraft 5W-20 he's currently running in the Lambo, the lightest oil he's run to-date I believe. That OTC oil more can relate to vs some boutique formulations from RLI and RL he's run previously.
Although it could be a while before a UOA is posted.
 
Quote:
" Kerosine that is fully additivized may make a good motor oil"


I actually know someone who is running a blend of 50/50 diesel fuel/engine oil with an extra bump of additives as an engine flush right now.

(he owns an independent lubricant manufacturer and has access to additives and lab tests that aren't readily available to everyone)
 
I've done significantly proportioned diesel flushes (but on 20W-50), and done it at idle, so 2cst fuel oil is still a pretty safe blend.

Truth be told, I was very tempted to make a 30 out of some Delo GOld Ultra, with some ATF as it is both a heavyish 40, and highly additised (1.4% ash), so diluting it some would be fairly safe.


Even diesel with a decent slug of VI could be made resemble something that's on the market.

I still don't think that kerosene could have enough FMs added to make it an even passable lubricant...
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
* more flow = more lubrication (actual understanding of hydrodynamics is 100 years old, and it's not flow)


Does someone have a link to a good article on this subject as it applies to crank/rod bearings? Preferrably keeping the language and/or math involved at a basic level.
 
Originally Posted By: Solarent
Quote:
" Kerosine that is fully additivized may make a good motor oil"


I actually know someone who is running a blend of 50/50 diesel fuel/engine oil with an extra bump of additives as an engine flush right now.

(he owns an independent lubricant manufacturer and has access to additives and lab tests that aren't readily available to everyone)


That's some crazy idea right there. You go first!
 
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