Bosch WS vs. Hyundai/Kia OEM Filters?

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knerml

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I am a fan of Hyundai/Kia 26300-35503 oil filters for my 2011 Sorento 2.4L engine.

The filter seems like a good value when buying in bulk, and I am using 3K/4Mo synthetic oil change intervals.

However, these filters do produce some minor valve noise on start-up.

Just tried a Bosch 72228WS Premium Oil Filter. No valve noise on start-up, even at -7 deg F this morning.

The cost is about the same as the OEM filter at
Does anyone know of any reasons not to use this filter over Hyundai/Kia OEM?

The only negative things I have noticed are:
- Lighter construction. Thinner gauge canister.
- Simple square seal.
- Black anti-drain back valve, possibly Nitrile.
 
Originally Posted By: knerml

The filter seems like a good value when buying in bulk, and I am using 3K/4Mo synthetic oil change intervals.


Why such a short OCI with synthetic oil?

The Bosch filter should work fine for your application.
 
1. I am conservative. Since I do my own oil changes the added cost is minimal. And, it is VERY easy to change the oil on this vehicle.

2. This vehicle typically sees short trips and does not get fully warmed up most of the time in the winter. In my opinion, the oil is more apt to see higher combustion contaminates and condensation under these conditions.

3. Even though Kia specifies 7.5K oil change intervals. My driving comes under "severe conditions" and requires 3.75K change intervals.
 
Originally Posted By: knerml
I am a fan of Hyundai/Kia 26300-35503 oil filters for my 2011 Sorento 2.4L engine.

The filter seems like a good value when buying in bulk, and I am using 3K/4Mo synthetic oil change intervals.

However, these filters do produce some minor valve noise on start-up.Just tried a Bosch 72228WS Premium Oil Filter. No valve noise on start-up, even at -7 deg F this morning.

The cost is about the same as the OEM filter at
Does anyone know of any reasons not to use this filter over Hyundai/Kia OEM?

The only negative things I have noticed are:
- Lighter construction. Thinner gauge canister.
- Simple square seal.
- Black anti-drain back valve, possibly Nitrile.



Interesting statement because it seems that H/K oem is supposed to solve/prevent the start up rattle or noise, of at least that's how it's often been pitched on this board. Based on your experience not limited to some aftermarkets as has been frequently stated here.

The Bosch WS would be ok, and I wouldn't be concerned about difference in can gauge or sealing gasket type. I would prefer to stick with a filter with a silicone adbv, same as the oem. But for 3k/4month oci nitrile should be fine. The WS while apparently called a premium filter it is not a Bosch Premium, basically it's the equivalent of a Purolator Classic.

As for a 3k synthetic oci, seems like overkill and lots of quality dino's should easily handle that even under severe driving profile. Just my .02
 
Reading my KIA manual, if you drive your vehicle at all you are under severe service! Not buying it.

My approach was to use a top quality syn, run it 7k (still allowable by the manual's top 7,500) and then do a UOA to prove the oil was still fine at 7k (it was). So now I'm going 7k intervals on full syn and will until warranty expires, then I'll probably jump to 10k.

Seems far more economical to me than changing full syn at 3k due to warranty Gestapo fears. Something for you to consider.

Does your Sorento use a cartridge filter? I think the filter issues experienced by some have actually been confined to spin on filters. Anyway I'm not surprised the aftermarket is working for you, all I've used in our 2012 KIA since we got it is Napa (Wix) filters and never an issue.
 
These are conventional spin-on filters.

My total annual cost is just $70 with Shell Synthetic 5W20 and Kia filter, 3 changes.

So, stretching change intervals produces no real costs savings.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac

Interesting statement because it seems that H/K oem is supposed to solve/prevent the start up rattle or noise, of at least that's how it's often been pitched on this board.


The TSBs on the issue from Hyundai do not specify the noise will be on start up. The problem I've experienced with aftermarket filters on my Hyundai is not start up noise, but a knocking/rattling while running.

To the OP-

I'm surprised at the claim of start up noise with the OEM filter. That's a strange claim I've never heard before.

Either filter should be fine. If you get any other noises after using an aftermarket filter, then try switching back to an OE filter.
 
Quote:
Reading my KIA manual, if you drive your vehicle at all you are under severe service! Not buying it....

Off Topic. Well, if it's like Hyundai and I'm assuming it is, the other part to equation is, or every 6 months whichever comes first. To me, it's however many miles up to 7500 mi. that one can get in that time frame to maintain the warranty. I don't believe there's any way to routinely exceed the 6 month by a significant amount and not put the vehicle warranty at some risk.

That's why if not regularly getting 5k+ miles for 6 months or obtaining synthetic at some super price, a quality dino would be my choice.

The recommended oci is one aspect that puts the H/K vehicle warranty in some perspective. Especially when one looks at something like Hondas 5-10%MM or 1 year whichever comes first oci.

The 2.4L as said, uses a spin on equivalent to the Puro 14459.
 
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Originally Posted By: sayjac

Interesting statement because it seems that H/K oem is supposed to solve/prevent the start up rattle or noise, of at least that's how it's often been pitched on this board.


The TSBs on the issue from Hyundai do not specify the noise will be on start up. The problem I've experienced with aftermarket filters on my Hyundai is not start up noise, but a knocking/rattling while running. ....

The 'or noise' was meant to be as an alternative to a start up rattle. But, the more cogent point for emphasis was that the H/K filter has been promoted as the solution to the noise issue. As the OP has shown, clearly that is NOT true for all 2.4L 'noises' of any origin. So in some cases at least, the OEM suffers the same issue as some aftermarkets. Based on the OP's post as highlighted, that is a factual statement.
 
its good to know. I service 2 Hyundais a 2012 Sonata 2.4 GDI and a 2011 Elantra 1.8. BOTH of these cars are VERY picky with filters. Anything but OEM makes the engine rattle something bad like marbles in a glass jar bad.

Of note the NON DI Motor Elantra is actually tougher on oil than the DI 2.4 in the Sonata. Same oil used (QS UD 5w20) 3K mile test the TBN on the Sonata was 3.1, on the Elantra?? .8!! Im going to do a 2nd oil sample again after 3k on the Elantra to see if it was a fluke.

Anyway, for me its just best to use the OEM filters. Especially since I can get them online for $5 a piece.

Jeff
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: stephen9666

The TSBs on the issue from Hyundai do not specify the noise will be on start up. The problem I've experienced with aftermarket filters on my Hyundai is not start up noise, but a knocking/rattling while running.


Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I service 2 Hyundais a 2012 Sonata 2.4 GDI and a 2011 Elantra 1.8. BOTH of these cars are VERY picky with filters. Anything but OEM makes the engine rattle something bad like marbles in a glass jar bad.


I'd sure like to know how the oil pumps in these cars works. It almost sounds like they are not positive displacement oil pumps, but rather weakly driven pressure pumps or something.

With a well designed positive displacement oil pump, a little more flow resistance shouldn't even matter or phase the pump's performance.
 
I'm not sure what they have but 2 different engine types I have experience with the 2.4 GDI and 1.8 port fuel delivrry BOTH sound better on OEM filters.

If the psi flow rate is the same withan aftermarket filter you would think it wouldn't matter? Like I said though the OEM filters can be had for $5 anyway if you shop around online.
 
Last edited:
I thought some time ago I read the pump is a 2-stage pump, don't recall any more details.
I'm using OEM filters (2010 2.4L) and haven't notice any odd rattle start up noise. I almost want to try another aftermarket filter to see what this is about, but have a stash of OEMs to carry me awhile. Besides, still under warranty, TSB regards to aftermarket filters, very unlikely but my luck if something happen (oil related or not) if I had to take the vehicle in for anything dealer wise, wouldn't want them to note in records that I'm not using OEM filter... maybe this doesn't matter... I dunno.
Matter of fact, I need to soon (my 1st time) make some arrangement on a safety recall notice I recently received regards to the stop lamp switch. I'll have my OEM filter on in case they nose around trying to find something else to case money to fly out of my wallet.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Quote:
Reading my KIA manual, if you drive your vehicle at all you are under severe service! Not buying it....

Off Topic. Well, if it's like Hyundai and I'm assuming it is, the other part to equation is, or every 6 months whichever comes first. To me, it's however many miles up to 7500 mi. that one can get in that time frame to maintain the warranty. I don't believe there's any way to routinely exceed the 6 month by a significant amount and not put the vehicle warranty at some risk.

That's why if not regularly getting 5k+ miles for 6 months or obtaining synthetic at some super price, a quality dino would be my choice.

The recommended oci is one aspect that puts the H/K vehicle warranty in some perspective. Especially when one looks at something like Hondas 5-10%MM or 1 year whichever comes first oci.

The 2.4L as said, uses a spin on equivalent to the Puro 14459.



There's always a lot of discussion about Hyundai's warranty, but how many Hyundai engines do you hear about blowing up?? Personally, I haven't heard of any. I have an '08 Hyundai with a 3.3L V6 and 68,000 trouble-free miles. . .5000 mile OCIs. I don't know anyone with oil-related engine issues. Hyundai is no more likely to deny an engine warranty issue than Honda or Toyota.
 
Originally Posted By: knerml
Just tried a Bosch 72228WS Premium Oil Filter. No valve noise on start-up, even at -7 deg F this morning.


The Bosch filters made in the US are made in the Purolator factory which Bosch purchased a few years back. Model for model each of the Bosch has a Purolator counterpart.

The WS indicates it's one their new Workshop Oil Filters designed for the installer market.

Bosch indicates a 97.5% efficiency for those filters (based on ISO 4548-12 at 20 microns), the same as the Purolator Classic, which is what it is.

I assume the reason for the lack of valve noise is that the Bosch/Purolator is less efficient than the Kia/Hyundai filter and the oil flows more easily through it when cold.

The Bosch Premium is the Purolator PureOne which is 99.9% efficient.

The Bosch DistancePlus and the Purolator Synthetic are the same. They also have 99.99% efficiency but double the capacity (how much dirt they can hold).

I've used the L14459 and PL14459 Purolator on my Hyundai with no particular problems. They are not as well built as the factory filter, which may be the most robust construction I've ever encountered in a spin-on oil filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Robster
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Quote:
Reading my KIA manual, if you drive your vehicle at all you are under severe service! Not buying it....

Off Topic. Well, if it's like Hyundai and I'm assuming it is, the other part to equation is, or every 6 months whichever comes first. To me, it's however many miles up to 7500 mi. that one can get in that time frame to maintain the warranty. I don't believe there's any way to routinely exceed the 6 month by a significant amount and not put the vehicle warranty at some risk.

That's why if not regularly getting 5k+ miles for 6 months or obtaining synthetic at some super price, a quality dino would be my choice.

The recommended oci is one aspect that puts the H/K vehicle warranty in some perspective. Especially when one looks at something like Hondas 5-10%MM or 1 year whichever comes first oci.

The 2.4L as said, uses a spin on equivalent to the Puro 14459.


There's always a lot of discussion about Hyundai's warranty, but how many Hyundai engines do you hear about blowing up?? Personally, I haven't heard of any. I have an '08 Hyundai with a 3.3L V6 and 68,000 trouble-free miles. . .5000 mile OCIs. I don't know anyone with oil-related engine issues. Hyundai is no more likely to deny an engine warranty issue than Honda or Toyota.

The point wasn't to pan H/K's warranty or even engine reliability as much as to illuminate H/K's oci maintenance schedule and how to maximize (cost and oil use-wise) that recommended oci in light of (as KCJeep noted and I agree) H/K's broad definition of 'severe service'. As an owner familiar with the H/K warranty, the intent was to point out that the 6 months portion of the schedule was the greater limiting factor to the recommended oci than the severe/normal service definition. Unless one regularly meets or exceeds 7500 miles in 6 months, time is what would need to observed more than the type of service the vehicle sees. One is easily documented for warranty, time, while the type service is much less so.

All that said, in the age of OLM/MM's and generally longer recommended oci's as the Honda example illustrates, H/K's no OLM/MM 6 month oci is relatively short as compared to some/many other manufacturers. As to whether one chooses to consider that to be related to, or a factor in the advertised engine/powertrain warranty is up to the individual. It is also true though, that regularly not observing the 6 month oci 'could' open an owner to warranty coverage questions in the event of some issue, the same as it would/could for ignoring the warranty maintenance requirements of any vehicle manufacturer. I'd guess that oil and filter change though, is the most common/prominent service requirement to maintain a vehicle warranty.
 
Originally Posted By: Wilhelm_D
...The Bosch filters made in the US are made in the Purolator factory which Bosch purchased a few years back.

Actually, as a joint venture Mann&Hummel and Bosch purchased Purolator back in 2006. However as of March of last year M&H aquired sole ownership of Purolator, acquiring Bosch's portion ownership.

Quote:
Model for model each of the Bosch has a Purolator counterpart.

The Bosch Distance Plus has no Purolator counterpart. Also the rarely seen Bosch Long Life is a wire back media is thought to be synthetic media, but no information is given as the percent synthetic media it is. The Purolator Synthetic (PSL) is advertised as a full synthetic media filter. (more information below)

Quote:
The WS indicates it's one their new Workshop Oil Filters designed for the installer market.

Bosch indicates a 97.5% efficiency for those filters (based on ISO 4548-12 at 20 microns), the same as the Purolator Classic, which is what it is.


I assume the reason for the lack of valve noise is that the Bosch/Purolator is less efficient than the Kia/Hyundai filter and the oil flows more easily through it when cold.

Based on the published efficiency specs of both filters that assumption is not accurate.

As correctly noted according to the Bosch site the WS is rated 97.5%@20um which is the same as the Puro Classic. However, as posted and documented in this thread the H/K OEM has an efficiency rating of 99.2%@50um. So based on the comparitive efficiencies of both filters, in this instance oil filter flow cannot be correlated or related to any engine noise. In fact based on the specs, the H/K oem is relatively inefficient.

Quote:
....The Bosch DistancePlus and the Purolator Synthetic are the same. They also have 99.99% efficiency but double the capacity (how much dirt they can hold).

Z06 above is correct, the BD+ and the Purolator Synthetic are not the same. The BD+ is a synthetic blend media filter while the Purolator Synthetic (PSL) is a wire backed full synthetic media filter. The PSL is rated 99%@25um, the BD+ according to Bosch site rated 99.9%@40um. Media and construction wise the Puro Synthetic would be most similar to the rare Bosch Long Life, but using the published ratings the PSL is more efficient than the BLL. So, they are also not the same.

It does appear though, that Bosch has recently and finally updated the filters specs on it's website.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Actually, as a joint venture Mann&Hummel and Bosch purchased Purolator back in 2006. However as of March of last year M&H aquired sole ownership of Purolator, acquiring Bosch's portion ownership.

The approval of the change in ownership took place in March, 2013. Purolator filters LLC, a joint venture between Bosch and Mann+Hummel, was to be re-named to Mann+Hummel Purolator Filters LLC but that change, which required the anti-trust approval they got last spring, was to be implemented over several months. I have not seen anything on how Bosch will change product line-up or sourcing. At this point its USA made filters are still Purolator-based.

Quote:
The Bosch Distance Plus has no Purolator counterpart.

I assume you're relying on this from 2012:

*New* Purolator Synthetic Filter *Pics*

Quote:
Based on the published efficiency specs of both filters that assumption is not accurate. As correctly noted according to the Bosch site the WS is rated 97.5%@20um which is the same as the Puro Classic. However, as posted and documented in this thread the H/K OEM has an efficiency rating of 99.2%@50um. So based on the comparitive efficiencies of both filters, in this instance oil filter flow cannot be correlated or related to any engine noise. In fact based on the specs, the H/K oem is relatively inefficient.

You lost me there.
 
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