So it looks like that the AFM oil consumption is no longer an issue for 2012 and 2013 5.3L AFM engines?
The TSB does not list those years.
The TSB does not list those years.
Sludged GM 5.3 oil burner: Need help cleaning up
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Theoretically. Of course, my 2009 wasn't in the original TSB ('07-'08) and it was later revised multiple times to update the fixes and include more vins/later models.
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I would for sure run a quality synthetic from then on out once the engine is repaired, but I feel bad that you have to deal with it on such a new truck. Every time I think of upgrading my vehicles to something newer, I read about this stuff and it makes me happy to keep what I have now. My old '00 Silverado 5.3 has piston slap, but only uses a half quart in 5000 mile OCI. I hope GM got the system down on the new trucks with AFM and DI. Twice the potential for problems my truck won't have. I wish you luck.
Well, after you get GM to fix the problem, I would recommend dumping the AFM thing altogether. I basically disabled the AFM at 240 odometer miles on my 2013 Silverado with 5.3L in it, because I was aware of the oil consumption issues going on. There is a large group of owners that have had positive experiences by deleting the AFM function in regards to oil consumption issues and other internal problems.
Only thing that bothers me, is that the cost of the R&D to develop this AFM stuff gets tacked onto the price of vehicle and most of us really don't want it anyway. My perception is that I paid for 8 cylinders, and I do not want any of them taking union sponsored breaks while I am operating the pickup. They all have to contribute to the task at hand. It is a team effort, and all 8 cylinders have to do their part.
Now we'll just have to see if deleting the AFM, installing a PCV oil catch can, and using Schaeffer 9003D 5w30 full synthetic mitigates any future problems.
Only thing that bothers me, is that the cost of the R&D to develop this AFM stuff gets tacked onto the price of vehicle and most of us really don't want it anyway. My perception is that I paid for 8 cylinders, and I do not want any of them taking union sponsored breaks while I am operating the pickup. They all have to contribute to the task at hand. It is a team effort, and all 8 cylinders have to do their part.
Now we'll just have to see if deleting the AFM, installing a PCV oil catch can, and using Schaeffer 9003D 5w30 full synthetic mitigates any future problems.
The engine will likely need to be torn down. The ring packs get stuck, and the few people I know that have had this happen ended up having the pistons & rings replaced.
Our 2010 Tahoe does not consume any oil at 55k...maybe I just got lucky, or maybe it is the use of HDEO and synthetic oil.
Our 2010 Tahoe does not consume any oil at 55k...maybe I just got lucky, or maybe it is the use of HDEO and synthetic oil.
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Well, after you get GM to fix the problem, I would recommend dumping the AFM thing altogether. I basically disabled the AFM at 240 odometer miles on my 2013 Silverado with 5.3L in it, because I was aware of the oil consumption issues going on. There is a large group of owners that have had positive experiences by deleting the AFM function in regards to oil consumption issues and other internal problems.
Only thing that bothers me, is that the cost of the R&D to develop this AFM stuff gets tacked onto the price of vehicle and most of us really don't want it anyway. My perception is that I paid for 8 cylinders, and I do not want any of them taking union sponsored breaks while I am operating the pickup. They all have to contribute to the task at hand. It is a team effort, and all 8 cylinders have to do their part.
Now we'll just have to see if deleting the AFM, installing a PCV oil catch can, and using Schaeffer 9003D 5w30 full synthetic mitigates any future problems.
I feel the same way about the AFM. How do you feel about start stop technology? I'd be disabling it as soon as I got home from the dealership.
Well, after you get GM to fix the problem, I would recommend dumping the AFM thing altogether. I basically disabled the AFM at 240 odometer miles on my 2013 Silverado with 5.3L in it, because I was aware of the oil consumption issues going on. There is a large group of owners that have had positive experiences by deleting the AFM function in regards to oil consumption issues and other internal problems.
Only thing that bothers me, is that the cost of the R&D to develop this AFM stuff gets tacked onto the price of vehicle and most of us really don't want it anyway. My perception is that I paid for 8 cylinders, and I do not want any of them taking union sponsored breaks while I am operating the pickup. They all have to contribute to the task at hand. It is a team effort, and all 8 cylinders have to do their part.
Now we'll just have to see if deleting the AFM, installing a PCV oil catch can, and using Schaeffer 9003D 5w30 full synthetic mitigates any future problems.
I feel the same way about the AFM. How do you feel about start stop technology? I'd be disabling it as soon as I got home from the dealership.
Originally Posted By: stchman
So it looks like that the AFM oil consumption is no longer an issue for 2012 and 2013 5.3L AFM engines?
The TSB does not list those years.
Supposedly the fixes of the shield over the high pressure spray nozzle in the oil pan and the revised valve cover were rolled into production during the last half of the 2011 model year. (The tsb has the dates for each) So the late 11's, and all of the 12's and 13's have these "fixes" from the factory. Time will only tell if they are fixes or not as most of these trucks haven't hit the mileage where the oil burning problems usually begin.
I disabled the AFM on my current truck with the Range AFM unit at around 350 miles. As stated I paid for eight cylinders and I really like the idea of all of them doing their job. I cannot see much difference in gas mileage vs my previous 2011 truck which ran the AFM until I traded it. In fact, the mileage on the new truck is a little better with AFM off than it was on the old truck with it on. Both trucks were identically spec'd in their drive-trains. Go figure, huh?
So it looks like that the AFM oil consumption is no longer an issue for 2012 and 2013 5.3L AFM engines?
The TSB does not list those years.
Supposedly the fixes of the shield over the high pressure spray nozzle in the oil pan and the revised valve cover were rolled into production during the last half of the 2011 model year. (The tsb has the dates for each) So the late 11's, and all of the 12's and 13's have these "fixes" from the factory. Time will only tell if they are fixes or not as most of these trucks haven't hit the mileage where the oil burning problems usually begin.
I disabled the AFM on my current truck with the Range AFM unit at around 350 miles. As stated I paid for eight cylinders and I really like the idea of all of them doing their job. I cannot see much difference in gas mileage vs my previous 2011 truck which ran the AFM until I traded it. In fact, the mileage on the new truck is a little better with AFM off than it was on the old truck with it on. Both trucks were identically spec'd in their drive-trains. Go figure, huh?
zulu, I would share your hesitation on letting the dealership open the engine up. The engine runs fine; it does use some oil, but it runs fine. I'd be more apt to let them apply the TSB fixes then disable the AFM with a tuner as some others have done. With good synthetic oil and a little hard driving, the rings may unstick on their own. Northstar engines were notorious for this. An Italian tune-up did wonders on those engines; maybe the same is true for these 5.3s as well.
Put the transmission in 2nd and accelerate towards redline then get off the throttle and let the engine braking slow you back down. Do that multiple times, and maybe once a week. From my understanding, engine braking is the mechanism by which the rings experience "negative pressure" if you will and will try to unstick themselves.
Put the transmission in 2nd and accelerate towards redline then get off the throttle and let the engine braking slow you back down. Do that multiple times, and maybe once a week. From my understanding, engine braking is the mechanism by which the rings experience "negative pressure" if you will and will try to unstick themselves.
Originally Posted By: zuluplus30
It is a mechanical problem. GM is well aware of that. AFMs inherently burn a little oil. But the early model years suffer from the PCV valve pulling oil into the manifold and the AFM pressure release valve spraying oil into the deactivated cylinders and gumming up the rings. Once the oil control rings are so gummed up it can no longer control it and keeps pulling more into the cylinders. It's a progressive problem that affects a large number of 2007-2010ish 5.3 motors in all of GM's lineup. They obviously are going to fix the defective parts buy I'm concerned they rings are still so gummed up they will need to be replaced too. I'm just not keen on having the engine torn apart and was hoping for suggestions to clean the ring packs back to acceptable.
In this case the ONLY possible solution might be to use Lubrication Engineers' LE2300 L-X Heavy Duty Chemical Supplement for Oil and Fuel systems... "a combination of oils and chemicals which has been carefully selected utilizing an advanced formulation. It has a unique ability to permeate metal to help today's internal combustion engines achieve maximum performance."
It can be added to Oil (6 oz per gal of crankcase oil) and gasoline fuel (1/2 ounce per gallon of fuel), It should keep the Ring packs cleaner (help to make them unstuck) and keep the PCV setup clean and efficiently working too!
Please avoid any harsh chemical treatments, LE2300 claims to be milder and effective.
Hope it helps and you find a long term solution... keep us posted
It is a mechanical problem. GM is well aware of that. AFMs inherently burn a little oil. But the early model years suffer from the PCV valve pulling oil into the manifold and the AFM pressure release valve spraying oil into the deactivated cylinders and gumming up the rings. Once the oil control rings are so gummed up it can no longer control it and keeps pulling more into the cylinders. It's a progressive problem that affects a large number of 2007-2010ish 5.3 motors in all of GM's lineup. They obviously are going to fix the defective parts buy I'm concerned they rings are still so gummed up they will need to be replaced too. I'm just not keen on having the engine torn apart and was hoping for suggestions to clean the ring packs back to acceptable.
In this case the ONLY possible solution might be to use Lubrication Engineers' LE2300 L-X Heavy Duty Chemical Supplement for Oil and Fuel systems... "a combination of oils and chemicals which has been carefully selected utilizing an advanced formulation. It has a unique ability to permeate metal to help today's internal combustion engines achieve maximum performance."
It can be added to Oil (6 oz per gal of crankcase oil) and gasoline fuel (1/2 ounce per gallon of fuel), It should keep the Ring packs cleaner (help to make them unstuck) and keep the PCV setup clean and efficiently working too!
Please avoid any harsh chemical treatments, LE2300 claims to be milder and effective.
Hope it helps and you find a long term solution... keep us posted
Originally Posted By: zuluplus30
Originally Posted By: Quest
1qt every 1000miles or so? That's a lot of oil ...
This is a genuine mechanical issue that needs mechanical attention. No magical elixir, unicorn pea or those mysterious stoddard solvent will fix your issue.
*sorry*
Q.
It is a mechanical problem. GM is well aware of that. AFMs inherently burn a little oil. But the early model years suffer from the PCV valve pulling oil into the manifold and the AFM pressure release valve spraying oil into the deactivated cylinders and gumming up the rings. Once the oil control rings are so gummed up it can no longer control it and keeps pulling more into the cylinders. It's a progressive problem that affects a large number of 2007-2010ish 5.3 motors in all of GM's lineup. They obviously are going to fix the defective parts buy I'm concerned they rings are still so gummed up they will need to be replaced too. I'm just not keen on having the engine torn apart and was hoping for suggestions to clean the ring packs back to acceptable.
Sounds like a oil catch can is in order.
Originally Posted By: Quest
1qt every 1000miles or so? That's a lot of oil ...
This is a genuine mechanical issue that needs mechanical attention. No magical elixir, unicorn pea or those mysterious stoddard solvent will fix your issue.
*sorry*
Q.
It is a mechanical problem. GM is well aware of that. AFMs inherently burn a little oil. But the early model years suffer from the PCV valve pulling oil into the manifold and the AFM pressure release valve spraying oil into the deactivated cylinders and gumming up the rings. Once the oil control rings are so gummed up it can no longer control it and keeps pulling more into the cylinders. It's a progressive problem that affects a large number of 2007-2010ish 5.3 motors in all of GM's lineup. They obviously are going to fix the defective parts buy I'm concerned they rings are still so gummed up they will need to be replaced too. I'm just not keen on having the engine torn apart and was hoping for suggestions to clean the ring packs back to acceptable.
Sounds like a oil catch can is in order.
No additives. Try detergent Mobil 1 High Mileage synthetic for 1000, then 3000 mile intervals. If after 20,000 miles it shows no improvement, then try additives. They are a last-ditch effort (like amputating a leg is a last resort to save a dying patient).
Originally Posted By: sopususer
With a picture being worth a 1000 words I thought anyone with the 5.3 oil consumption problem might benefit from seeing the tsb from GM addressing the problem. It also has pictures of the affected components.
AFM OIL USAGE TSB
So based on this GM document they now consider 48K miles "high mileage"?
With a picture being worth a 1000 words I thought anyone with the 5.3 oil consumption problem might benefit from seeing the tsb from GM addressing the problem. It also has pictures of the affected components.
AFM OIL USAGE TSB
So based on this GM document they now consider 48K miles "high mileage"?
Originally Posted By: blackman777
No additives. Try detergent Mobil 1 High Mileage synthetic for 1000, then 3000 mile intervals. If after 20,000 miles it shows no improvement, then try additives. They are a last-ditch effort (like amputating a leg is a last resort to save a dying patient).
20,000 miles to see of something is working is a long time, I have one vehicle which that method would take 5+ years to see results. No one looking to clean an engine wants to wait that long.
OP why not check the oil additive section this has been covered 100's of times. All the different cleaning products pro's and con's have been discussed.
No additives. Try detergent Mobil 1 High Mileage synthetic for 1000, then 3000 mile intervals. If after 20,000 miles it shows no improvement, then try additives. They are a last-ditch effort (like amputating a leg is a last resort to save a dying patient).
20,000 miles to see of something is working is a long time, I have one vehicle which that method would take 5+ years to see results. No one looking to clean an engine wants to wait that long.
OP why not check the oil additive section this has been covered 100's of times. All the different cleaning products pro's and con's have been discussed.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
20,000 miles to see of something is working is a long time, I have one vehicle which that method would take 5+ years to see results. No one looking to clean an engine wants to wait that long.
OP why not check the oil additive section this has been covered 100's of times. All the different cleaning products pro's and con's have been discussed.
Times ten. I have seen this issue resolved many times quickly and easily, if indeed the diagnosis is correct.
20,000 miles to see of something is working is a long time, I have one vehicle which that method would take 5+ years to see results. No one looking to clean an engine wants to wait that long.
OP why not check the oil additive section this has been covered 100's of times. All the different cleaning products pro's and con's have been discussed.
Times ten. I have seen this issue resolved many times quickly and easily, if indeed the diagnosis is correct.
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Impatience often leads to disaster (sludge clogs oil pickup & starves engine). Anyway I will revise my recommendation:
- no additives (they are last resort like chopping off leg to save patient)
-Mobil 1 synthetic
- 1000 mile change
- 4000 mile change
- 7000 mile change
-at 10000 check to see if things improved
- no additives (they are last resort like chopping off leg to save patient)
-Mobil 1 synthetic
- 1000 mile change
- 4000 mile change
- 7000 mile change
-at 10000 check to see if things improved
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
20,000 miles to see of something is working is a long time, I have one vehicle which that method would take 5+ years to see results. No one looking to clean an engine wants to wait that long.
OP why not check the oil additive section this has been covered 100's of times. All the different cleaning products pro's and con's have been discussed.
Times ten. I have seen this issue resolved many times quickly and easily, if indeed the diagnosis is correct.
Exactly!
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
20,000 miles to see of something is working is a long time, I have one vehicle which that method would take 5+ years to see results. No one looking to clean an engine wants to wait that long.
OP why not check the oil additive section this has been covered 100's of times. All the different cleaning products pro's and con's have been discussed.
Times ten. I have seen this issue resolved many times quickly and easily, if indeed the diagnosis is correct.
Exactly!
Quote:
sludge clogs oil pickup & starves engine
Is this sludge in the classic sense of gobs of black gooey gunk, or is this more baked carbon in the piston rings & grooves? I think the latter.
sludge clogs oil pickup & starves engine
Is this sludge in the classic sense of gobs of black gooey gunk, or is this more baked carbon in the piston rings & grooves? I think the latter.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
20,000 miles to see of something is working is a long time, I have one vehicle which that method would take 5+ years to see results. No one looking to clean an engine wants to wait that long.
Times ten. I have seen this issue resolved many times quickly and easily, if indeed the diagnosis is correct.
Exactly!
+1.
Originally Posted By: Ken2
Quote:
sludge clogs oil pickup & starves engine
Is this sludge in the classic sense of gobs of black gooey gunk, or is this more baked carbon in the piston rings & grooves? I think the latter.
well by the time 2 full tanks of fuel are completed when using LE 2300 L-X, if a quick result is seen in terms of smoother engine performance , this will show that hard baked carbon is not eh major culprit !
It will be real proof that you can get good cleaning results without waiting for a long time.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
20,000 miles to see of something is working is a long time, I have one vehicle which that method would take 5+ years to see results. No one looking to clean an engine wants to wait that long.
Times ten. I have seen this issue resolved many times quickly and easily, if indeed the diagnosis is correct.
Exactly!
+1.
Originally Posted By: Ken2
Quote:
sludge clogs oil pickup & starves engine
Is this sludge in the classic sense of gobs of black gooey gunk, or is this more baked carbon in the piston rings & grooves? I think the latter.
well by the time 2 full tanks of fuel are completed when using LE 2300 L-X, if a quick result is seen in terms of smoother engine performance , this will show that hard baked carbon is not eh major culprit !
It will be real proof that you can get good cleaning results without waiting for a long time.
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