97 Integra Ls Motor Oil

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Ive read through the fourm and read that theres really no best oil it all depends on the correct motor oil weight, what your car manual says and so on. I know my integra uses 5w-30 and I have synthetic in now but didnt know which oil to go with. Everyone Ive heard and read about is using Mobil 1 or Royal Purple which are kinda expensive Mobil 1 is not so bad at walmart though $22 for 5 quarts! but Castrol is $14 for 5 quarts and so is penzoil and quaker state. But more people use M1 and castrol??

I have 162,000 miles on my teggy right now
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and bought it used so this is my first real oil change and want to start off good!
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whats my best choice? and advice?
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Please read

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1664795#Post1664795

IE filling out some more details will help...I took the liberty of adding erroneous information until you can fill us in.

1. What kind of vehicle you have : 97 Acura Integra
2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well : 5w30
3. Where you live : Florida
4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?) : My drive style is just like the guys in Fast and the Furious.
5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?) : I live my life a quarter mile at a time. Wide Open Throttle every where, even if it my destination is 5 feet away.
6. Whether your car has any known problems : The big bench seat spoiler in the back.
 
We ran M1 and PU 5w-30 in ours until it rusted away at 182k. Never used a drop.

Id use that at the 7500 mile OCI with confidence.
 
I use what ever syn I get on sale in my teg, currently I am running Quaker state syn.

This generation of Honda motors is not picky at all, I have ran 15w40 to 0w20 with no low or high oil pressure problems.
 
Pennzoil Ultra 10w-30 if you can find it, pair it with a Fram Ultra filter at Walmart for 7500 miles

Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1 or another name brand synthetic 10w-30 with the same filter for 7500 miles

Pennzoil Conventional, Super Mobil 5000, Quaker State Advanced Durability... you cant go wrong with any of those for 5000 miles and a Fram Tough Guard.

Personally, i prefer Shell (Pennzoil & Quaker State) products.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Umibozu
Please read

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1664795#Post1664795

IE filling out some more details will help...I took the liberty of adding erroneous information until you can fill us in.

1. What kind of vehicle you have : 97 Acura Integra
2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well : 5w30
3. Where you live : Florida
4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?) : My drive style is just like the guys in Fast and the Furious.
5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?) : I live my life a quarter mile at a time. Wide Open Throttle every where, even if it my destination is 5 feet away.
6. Whether your car has any known problems : The big bench seat spoiler in the back.


1)97 integra

2) API SG or SH energy conserving 2 grade oil, 5w30, change every 3,000 miles

3) I live in Florida

4)I drive easy like going 50 in a 45 and 80 in a 70 type driving

5)My daily drive I go to school 250 miles away but only drive there and back about 3 times for the whole year. At school campus is 10 miles from where I live

6)Known problems cv axles have to changed, need a tune-up because gas seems like finishing too fast, dont know what condition the water pump and timing belt are in
 
If you don't know when the water pump, timing belt and tensioner were last changed, put that task at the top of your to-do list.
Once that service is done, you'll be good to go for as long as you're likely to own this car.
Don't find out the hard way that you should have done this work, either.
This Honda engine isn't going to care too much about oil or filter choice.
Most Hondas don't and you do live in a climate where real cold is not a consideration.
Use any conventional 5W-30 on 5K drains or any syn on 7.5K drains.
Honda did recommend 7.5K or one year on any API SG 5W-30 when your car was new, so these should be very conservative intervals.
I hope you enjoy many miles of happy ownership.
In this generation of Honda product, you probably will.
 
Welcome to BITOG!

This month, check out Napa Synthetic. It is on sale for $3.49 until the 31st, and it is rebranded Valvoline Synpower.

If there's no Napa near you, get the M1 High mileage 5w30 from Walmart.

It's nice to see a stock Integra! I didn't know they still existed.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
If you don't know when the water pump, timing belt and tensioner were last changed, put that task at the top of your to-do list.
Once that service is done, you'll be good to go for as long as you're likely to own this car.
Don't find out the hard way that you should have done this work, either.
This Honda engine isn't going to care too much about oil or filter choice.
Most Hondas don't and you do live in a climate where real cold is not a consideration.
Use any conventional 5W-30 on 5K drains or any syn on 7.5K drains.
Honda did recommend 7.5K or one year on any API SG 5W-30 when your car was new, so these should be very conservative intervals.
I hope you enjoy many miles of happy ownership.
In this generation of Honda product, you probably will.


Will a free OBD reading, I think its free at autozone, check to see if anything else needs service?
 
The code reader will only tell you of trouble codes.
If you have no CEL, you probably have no stored codes.
It can't tell you that if you don't change the timing belt in the next X miles, it'll fail with disasterous consequences.
Hondas are interference engines as a rule. A timing belt failure is therefore to be avoided.
 
Originally Posted By: Juelz
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
If you don't know when the water pump, timing belt and tensioner were last changed, put that task at the top of your to-do list.
Once that service is done, you'll be good to go for as long as you're likely to own this car.
Don't find out the hard way that you should have done this work, either.
This Honda engine isn't going to care too much about oil or filter choice.
Most Hondas don't and you do live in a climate where real cold is not a consideration.
Use any conventional 5W-30 on 5K drains or any syn on 7.5K drains.
Honda did recommend 7.5K or one year on any API SG 5W-30 when your car was new, so these should be very conservative intervals.
I hope you enjoy many miles of happy ownership.
In this generation of Honda product, you probably will.


Will a free OBD reading, I think its free at autozone, check to see if anything else needs service?


Unfortunately an OBD reading will not give you information on the timing belt, tensioner, or water pump. With unknown maintenance history I would replace all three for peace of mind as previously suggested.
 
Originally Posted By: Juelz
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
If you don't know when the water pump, timing belt and tensioner were last changed, put that task at the top of your to-do list.
Once that service is done, you'll be good to go for as long as you're likely to own this car.
Don't find out the hard way that you should have done this work, either.
This Honda engine isn't going to care too much about oil or filter choice.
Most Hondas don't and you do live in a climate where real cold is not a consideration.
Use any conventional 5W-30 on 5K drains or any syn on 7.5K drains.
Honda did recommend 7.5K or one year on any API SG 5W-30 when your car was new, so these should be very conservative intervals.
I hope you enjoy many miles of happy ownership.
In this generation of Honda product, you probably will.


Will a free OBD reading, I think its free at autozone, check to see if anything else needs service?


If you were closer I would check the wear and age for you on the timing components
frown.gif


Your best bet it to get in with the Honda forums down there and have someone like me more local tell you whats up on your T.belt.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
The code reader will only tell you of trouble codes.
If you have no CEL, you probably have no stored codes.
It can't tell you that if you don't change the timing belt in the next X miles, it'll fail with disasterous consequences.
Hondas are interference engines as a rule. A timing belt failure is therefore to be avoided.

is there a way of telling when its going bad since I cant ask the guy when it was last changed?
 
Originally Posted By: Brenden
Originally Posted By: Juelz
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
If you don't know when the water pump, timing belt and tensioner were last changed, put that task at the top of your to-do list.
Once that service is done, you'll be good to go for as long as you're likely to own this car.
Don't find out the hard way that you should have done this work, either.
This Honda engine isn't going to care too much about oil or filter choice.
Most Hondas don't and you do live in a climate where real cold is not a consideration.
Use any conventional 5W-30 on 5K drains or any syn on 7.5K drains.
Honda did recommend 7.5K or one year on any API SG 5W-30 when your car was new, so these should be very conservative intervals.
I hope you enjoy many miles of happy ownership.
In this generation of Honda product, you probably will.


Will a free OBD reading, I think its free at autozone, check to see if anything else needs service?


If you were closer I would check the wear and age for you on the timing components
frown.gif


Your best bet it to get in with the Honda forums down there and have someone like me more local tell you whats up on your T.belt.


I wish you were closer too
frown.gif
I am on club integra and I visit team integra those two fourms are both pure integra based. Do shops do full inspections or safety inspections where they will check the timing belt?
 
It's a bit time consuming to pull the timing belt cover, to inspect the belt. No shop will do so for free.

Even the usual brake inspections are simply pulling the wheel and having a LOOK SEE. They don't remove the pads to full inspect everything.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
It's a bit time consuming to pull the timing belt cover, to inspect the belt. No shop will do so for free.

Even the usual brake inspections are simply pulling the wheel and having a LOOK SEE. They don't remove the pads to full inspect everything.


ok thanks
 
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