Is it worthwhile to do a full flush and fill with fresh brake fluid when I install new rotors and pads?
Flush and Fill Brake Fluid?
- Thread starter Rolla07
- Start date
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Yes
I'm just going to throw this out there..
1) Take the brake line off each corner (?)
2. Pump brakes until all old nasty fluid runs out
3. Refill with appropriate type of brake fluid, pump brakes with Master Cylinder cap off until air is out?
Yes or no
1) Take the brake line off each corner (?)
2. Pump brakes until all old nasty fluid runs out
3. Refill with appropriate type of brake fluid, pump brakes with Master Cylinder cap off until air is out?
Yes or no
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- Mar 3, 2010
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- 2,451
Depending on the system design it may work for some.
Why take line off? That's why there are bleeders.
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
I'm just going to throw this out there..
1) Take the brake line off each corner (?)
2. Pump brakes until all old nasty fluid runs out
3. Refill with appropriate type of brake fluid, pump brakes with Master Cylinder cap off until air is out?
Yes or no
No, do it right or don't do it at all. Get as much fluid out as possible.
I'm just going to throw this out there..
1) Take the brake line off each corner (?)
2. Pump brakes until all old nasty fluid runs out
3. Refill with appropriate type of brake fluid, pump brakes with Master Cylinder cap off until air is out?
Yes or no
No, do it right or don't do it at all. Get as much fluid out as possible.
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
I'm just going to throw this out there..
1) Take the brake line off each corner (?)
2. Pump brakes until all old nasty fluid runs out
3. Refill with appropriate type of brake fluid, pump brakes with Master Cylinder cap off until air is out?
Yes or no
NO.
I'm just going to throw this out there..
1) Take the brake line off each corner (?)
2. Pump brakes until all old nasty fluid runs out
3. Refill with appropriate type of brake fluid, pump brakes with Master Cylinder cap off until air is out?
Yes or no
NO.
When I did the brakes on my explorer, I pumed out the brake fluid with a hand pump and refilled. Then I bled the brakes till the fluid was clear. Its worth doing. Brake fluid doesn't last forever
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
I'm just going to throw this out there..
1) Take the brake line off each corner (?)
2. Pump brakes until all old nasty fluid runs out
3. Refill with appropriate type of brake fluid, pump brakes with Master Cylinder cap off until air is out?
Yes or no
NO. just flush out the fluid according to the manufacturers spec at each wheel using the bleeders. I flush the brake fluid at every pad reline.
I'm just going to throw this out there..
1) Take the brake line off each corner (?)
2. Pump brakes until all old nasty fluid runs out
3. Refill with appropriate type of brake fluid, pump brakes with Master Cylinder cap off until air is out?
Yes or no
NO. just flush out the fluid according to the manufacturers spec at each wheel using the bleeders. I flush the brake fluid at every pad reline.
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Also to add, taking a brake line completely off can have some negative side effects. It can either be a PITA to access on some models. On others if you are not lightning fast at getting it back on, bleeding can be a nightmare. Bleeder valves are there for a reason.
On a 2006 Toyota Hybrid Highlander I thought I would pump the pedal and bleed the brake fluid. No brake fluid came out by pumping the pedal and opening the bleeder screw; instead the dashboard lit up like Star Wars and I ended up bringing the vehicle to the dealer to have the lights on the dash reset. Expensive lesson learned.
Originally Posted By: Kool1
On a 2006 Toyota Hybrid Highlander I thought I would pump the pedal and bleed the brake fluid. No brake fluid came out by pumping the pedal and opening the bleeder screw; instead the dashboard lit up like Star Wars and I ended up bringing the vehicle to the dealer to have the lights on the dash reset. Expensive lesson learned.
Yes, on the Toyota hybrids and certain Lexus models (GS, latest LX) you need to use Toyota Techstream to initiate the electrical pump in order to perform a brake flush/bleed.
On a 2006 Toyota Hybrid Highlander I thought I would pump the pedal and bleed the brake fluid. No brake fluid came out by pumping the pedal and opening the bleeder screw; instead the dashboard lit up like Star Wars and I ended up bringing the vehicle to the dealer to have the lights on the dash reset. Expensive lesson learned.
Yes, on the Toyota hybrids and certain Lexus models (GS, latest LX) you need to use Toyota Techstream to initiate the electrical pump in order to perform a brake flush/bleed.
Brake fluid absorbs alot of moisture. That's its job in part. So it's VERY worthwhile to remove/replace it as often as practical. I use a Vaccula air powered vacuum bleeder. Makes it simple and pumping the brakes isn't required (on most vehicles).
Be cautious of draining a system dry. On some ABS pumps...it's possible to get air in them. And impossible to get it out without forcing the pump to run with a laptop plugged in. Most ABS pumps test run on every start up...but it could take hours to get the air out this way. Most pumps remain sealed (or closed tight) during bleeding...so some old fluid remains after bleeding but not enough to worry about for me.
Using vacuum bleeding never drains the system to allow air in unless you forget to keep the reservoir topped off during.
Brake fluid is the often forgotten fluid that never gets changed by most owners. That and power steering fluid (for vehicles that still use it). Your lines can rust from the inside out...and rust particles are BAD on components before that.
Be cautious of draining a system dry. On some ABS pumps...it's possible to get air in them. And impossible to get it out without forcing the pump to run with a laptop plugged in. Most ABS pumps test run on every start up...but it could take hours to get the air out this way. Most pumps remain sealed (or closed tight) during bleeding...so some old fluid remains after bleeding but not enough to worry about for me.
Using vacuum bleeding never drains the system to allow air in unless you forget to keep the reservoir topped off during.
Brake fluid is the often forgotten fluid that never gets changed by most owners. That and power steering fluid (for vehicles that still use it). Your lines can rust from the inside out...and rust particles are BAD on components before that.
Originally Posted By: neilLB7
Brake fluid absorbs alot of moisture. That's its job in part. So it's VERY worthwhile to remove/replace it as often as practical. I use a Vaccula air powered vacuum bleeder. Makes it simple and pumping the brakes isn't required (on most vehicles).
Be cautious of draining a system dry. On some ABS pumps...it's possible to get air in them. And impossible to get it out without forcing the pump to run with a laptop plugged in. Most ABS pumps test run on every start up...but it could take hours to get the air out this way. Most pumps remain sealed (or closed tight) during bleeding...so some old fluid remains after bleeding but not enough to worry about for me.
Using vacuum bleeding never drains the system to allow air in unless you forget to keep the reservoir topped off during.
Brake fluid is the often forgotten fluid that never gets changed by most owners. That and power steering fluid (for vehicles that still use it). Your lines can rust from the inside out...and rust particles are BAD on components before that.
Why would anyone bleed a working system dry?
You can remove the lines if you want, I would depress the brake pedal an inch or two, supposedly this prevent the MC from completely draining. If you don't, you have a few minutes to get the line back on before problems (emptying the MC) happen.
A few years ago, my friend did a caliper swap on an explorer and left the line for hours, and lost fluid very slowly, so they just kept topping up the MC until it was done.
There is only two ways to bleed the system: pressure bleed and manual pump by the foot.
Brake fluid absorbs alot of moisture. That's its job in part. So it's VERY worthwhile to remove/replace it as often as practical. I use a Vaccula air powered vacuum bleeder. Makes it simple and pumping the brakes isn't required (on most vehicles).
Be cautious of draining a system dry. On some ABS pumps...it's possible to get air in them. And impossible to get it out without forcing the pump to run with a laptop plugged in. Most ABS pumps test run on every start up...but it could take hours to get the air out this way. Most pumps remain sealed (or closed tight) during bleeding...so some old fluid remains after bleeding but not enough to worry about for me.
Using vacuum bleeding never drains the system to allow air in unless you forget to keep the reservoir topped off during.
Brake fluid is the often forgotten fluid that never gets changed by most owners. That and power steering fluid (for vehicles that still use it). Your lines can rust from the inside out...and rust particles are BAD on components before that.
Why would anyone bleed a working system dry?
You can remove the lines if you want, I would depress the brake pedal an inch or two, supposedly this prevent the MC from completely draining. If you don't, you have a few minutes to get the line back on before problems (emptying the MC) happen.
A few years ago, my friend did a caliper swap on an explorer and left the line for hours, and lost fluid very slowly, so they just kept topping up the MC until it was done.
There is only two ways to bleed the system: pressure bleed and manual pump by the foot.
Because sometimes it makes it less messy when working on lines, valves or whatever. I don't like working on a system full of fluid. And I DON'T want pressurized brake fluid in a tool that attaches to the master cylinder. Any accidents and it's going everywhere.
What harm is there in draining a hydraulic system dry if you properly refill the system?
"There is only two ways to bleed the system: pressure bleed and manual pump by the foot".
Those are the same thing. But you may be refering to the pressure tools you can attach to the master cylinders.
ONLY two? You mentioned three. And obviously a fourth that I use...vacuum bleeding is a completely acceptable method. What's wrong with applying vacuum to a bleeder valve and pulling new fluid through a system till it runs clear? I can replace the fluid in a typical pickup in about 20 minutes if the bleeders aren't seized up....by myself...with no mess.
The third method you mentioned on the Explorer works too. I've seen truck mechanics let big truck hydraulic systems gravity drain out. And gravity refill. And it works perfectly for them. So there aren't just two.
What harm is there in draining a hydraulic system dry if you properly refill the system?
"There is only two ways to bleed the system: pressure bleed and manual pump by the foot".
Those are the same thing. But you may be refering to the pressure tools you can attach to the master cylinders.
ONLY two? You mentioned three. And obviously a fourth that I use...vacuum bleeding is a completely acceptable method. What's wrong with applying vacuum to a bleeder valve and pulling new fluid through a system till it runs clear? I can replace the fluid in a typical pickup in about 20 minutes if the bleeders aren't seized up....by myself...with no mess.
The third method you mentioned on the Explorer works too. I've seen truck mechanics let big truck hydraulic systems gravity drain out. And gravity refill. And it works perfectly for them. So there aren't just two.
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You can also do pressure bleeding in reverse, if you have suitable equipment.
And there is no issues usually with letting a master cylinder run dry. A vacuum bleeder will refill everything quickly. A little push on the pedal while under vacuum will clear out any air.
The main key is...know YOUR brake system...and have an understanding of the inner workings of the parts you are messing with. Makes troubleshooting easier.
Even still...sometimes an air bubble can become trapped in system somewhere if you've got air in to begin with. When most tools fail...a good firm pedal bleed can usually force that air out with a rush of fluid.
The main key is...know YOUR brake system...and have an understanding of the inner workings of the parts you are messing with. Makes troubleshooting easier.
Even still...sometimes an air bubble can become trapped in system somewhere if you've got air in to begin with. When most tools fail...a good firm pedal bleed can usually force that air out with a rush of fluid.
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