What is the current recommendation for removing spark plugs in aluminum heads? Remove and replace stone cold, warm, or normal operating temperature?
Spark plug removal on aluminum heads
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Check your factory service manual.
Usually, it is cold.
Usually, it is cold.
Change them cold!
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I remove them cold and if I feel too much resistance I turn the plug back and forth several times, each time unscrewing it a bit further than the last time. But since I started using a bit of antisieze the plugs come out with no problem.
Overnight cold unless the manufacture states different. I also use a very small dab of Never Seize.
Stone cold it is. I always use anti seize, but these plugs have never been out and I have about 110,000 miles on them.
I prefer to do it with the head slightly warm to the touch. A spritz of penetrating oil at the base of the threads the day before is a good option as well. Also ever so slightly tighten the plug first before turning it out - helps break any corrosion and the plug to turn freely. Use the smallest ratchet reasonable in order to lessen the chance of any side loading.
I've read NGK's treatise on anti-seize, I still say bollocks to that and put a tiny dab of nickel-based anti-seize on all spark & glow plug threads before hand-threading it first and finishing with a 1/4" ratchet by hand. A couple other issues with their tech bulletin - typical 'trivalent Zinc chromate' coating is not a long-lasting corrosion treatment and the amount of anti-seize they show in the second page is a ridiculous amount. I put a tiny dab on a gloved finger and roll it around the threads, only putting the thinnest film possible onto the plug.
Never had one get dorked up with this method and always had them come out easily.
I've read NGK's treatise on anti-seize, I still say bollocks to that and put a tiny dab of nickel-based anti-seize on all spark & glow plug threads before hand-threading it first and finishing with a 1/4" ratchet by hand. A couple other issues with their tech bulletin - typical 'trivalent Zinc chromate' coating is not a long-lasting corrosion treatment and the amount of anti-seize they show in the second page is a ridiculous amount. I put a tiny dab on a gloved finger and roll it around the threads, only putting the thinnest film possible onto the plug.
Never had one get dorked up with this method and always had them come out easily.
Originally Posted By: scurvy
I prefer to do it with the head slightly warm to the touch. A spritz of penetrating oil at the base of the threads the day before is a good option as well. Also ever so slightly tighten the plug first before turning it out - helps break any corrosion and the plug to turn freely. Use the smallest ratchet reasonable in order to lessen the chance of any side loading.
I've read NGK's treatise on anti-seize, I still say bollocks to that and put a tiny dab of nickel-based anti-seize on all spark & glow plug threads before hand-threading it first and finishing with a 1/4" ratchet by hand. A couple other issues with their tech bulletin - typical 'trivalent Zinc chromate' coating is not a long-lasting corrosion treatment and the amount of anti-seize they show in the second page is a ridiculous amount. I put a tiny dab on a gloved finger and roll it around the threads, only putting the thinnest film possible onto the plug.
Never had one get dorked up with this method and always had them come out easily.
Probably the only reason they state not to use antisieze is because of so many variables at play and they have no control over the amount of antiseize used, even if they were very specific about it. Considering that most people are clueless about these things, but are very quick to sue, it's safer to remove that option all together for the consumer.
Someone actually did dig out a document for Autolite or some other spark plug manufacturer, probably meant for professionals that allowed the use of antisieze.
Just like automakers do not recommend fuel and oil additives. There are so many additives available on the market and so many variables that could negatively impact engine performance and reliability during warranty, that it's simpler to ban their use. Meantime dealers are free to use all sorts of additives without affecting the warranty coverage.
That's the nature of the beast now days. Companies have multiple faces, multiple requirements, multiple stances all aimed at a specific market segment they're trying to cater to.
I prefer to do it with the head slightly warm to the touch. A spritz of penetrating oil at the base of the threads the day before is a good option as well. Also ever so slightly tighten the plug first before turning it out - helps break any corrosion and the plug to turn freely. Use the smallest ratchet reasonable in order to lessen the chance of any side loading.
I've read NGK's treatise on anti-seize, I still say bollocks to that and put a tiny dab of nickel-based anti-seize on all spark & glow plug threads before hand-threading it first and finishing with a 1/4" ratchet by hand. A couple other issues with their tech bulletin - typical 'trivalent Zinc chromate' coating is not a long-lasting corrosion treatment and the amount of anti-seize they show in the second page is a ridiculous amount. I put a tiny dab on a gloved finger and roll it around the threads, only putting the thinnest film possible onto the plug.
Never had one get dorked up with this method and always had them come out easily.
Probably the only reason they state not to use antisieze is because of so many variables at play and they have no control over the amount of antiseize used, even if they were very specific about it. Considering that most people are clueless about these things, but are very quick to sue, it's safer to remove that option all together for the consumer.
Someone actually did dig out a document for Autolite or some other spark plug manufacturer, probably meant for professionals that allowed the use of antisieze.
Just like automakers do not recommend fuel and oil additives. There are so many additives available on the market and so many variables that could negatively impact engine performance and reliability during warranty, that it's simpler to ban their use. Meantime dealers are free to use all sorts of additives without affecting the warranty coverage.
That's the nature of the beast now days. Companies have multiple faces, multiple requirements, multiple stances all aimed at a specific market segment they're trying to cater to.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I remove them cold and if I feel too much resistance I turn the plug back and forth several times, each time unscrewing it a bit further than the last time. But since I started using a bit of antisieze the plugs come out with no problem.
+1
I remove them cold and if I feel too much resistance I turn the plug back and forth several times, each time unscrewing it a bit further than the last time. But since I started using a bit of antisieze the plugs come out with no problem.
+1
Only time you really want to use the anti-seize if you are putting the old plug back in (but then the question is why in the world are you putting them back in?). New (NGK) plugs threads have the plating which essentially works as anti-seize i.e. it will sacrifice itself to prevent plug fusing to head. All my Japanese plugs (6+6+4) have come out easily even after 10year/140K miles on them.
I have never had a plug break after applying neversieze. I HAVE had an NGK made AC Delco pull the threads out however. I always use neversieze and use an in/lb torque wrench set at the low end of the spec range (16?).
JHZR2
Staff member
Totally cold, and I usually loosen and tighten repeatedly in larger and larger arcs to get them out safely. Never had an issue yet, knock on wood...
Always warm, if I have a choice.
Warm and a drop of ATF on the thread of the new plugs before install.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Totally cold, and I usually loosen and tighten repeatedly in larger and larger arcs to get them out safely. Never had an issue yet, knock on wood...
I tried doing that once on a G35 and the spark plugs simply would never screw back in. I still got them out w/o any threads missing though.
Totally cold, and I usually loosen and tighten repeatedly in larger and larger arcs to get them out safely. Never had an issue yet, knock on wood...
I tried doing that once on a G35 and the spark plugs simply would never screw back in. I still got them out w/o any threads missing though.
Originally Posted By: user52165
FWIW - in addition I always hit each plug opening before removal with a good blast of compressed air to blow out any sand, grit, etc. Especially with vertically mounted plugs.
This is important
Ford lists this in their manual as a crucial step when replacing plugs in a Modular engine.
Also, using the factory torque spec is equally important.
FWIW - in addition I always hit each plug opening before removal with a good blast of compressed air to blow out any sand, grit, etc. Especially with vertically mounted plugs.
This is important
Ford lists this in their manual as a crucial step when replacing plugs in a Modular engine.
Also, using the factory torque spec is equally important.
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