copper jumper cables

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
I have a bunch of old 10 gauge pure copper speaker wire, I bought 4 clamps and made my own 10' jumper cables by double up the 10 gauge speaker wire, so that the home made jumper is about 7 gauge.

I tried it once to jump start the LS400, it works okay and the wire didn't get too hot, just barely warm.

Welding cable is best, but it is not cheap either, nor are good clamps.

I agree. To make a good 10-12' with 4-6 gauge welding cable and good clamps then the cost will be more than $30.

Since I have some 10 gauge copper wire laying around, I like to have some good use from it, I paid less than $4 for 4 cheapo clamps so that my cost was only $4.

It looks cheap but it works.


Until you go and try to start my Cummins diesel.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Until you go and try to start my Cummins diesel.


Ive not had issues with the 1.7kW starters on my MBs. Your cummins has a 2.5kW starter, which means roughly 800W or roughly 75A additional current, which is a decent amount.

Is there a listing of the current thresholds for safe use of different gauge/length booster cable? I imagine it is somewhat different than the basic AWG tables for continuous use...

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: Donald
Until you go and try to start my Cummins diesel.


Ive not had issues with the 1.7kW starters on my MBs. Your cummins has a 2.5kW starter, which means roughly 800W or roughly 75A additional current, which is a decent amount.

Is there a listing of the current thresholds for safe use of different gauge/length booster cable? I imagine it is somewhat different than the basic AWG tables for continuous use...


Did the MBs have single or dual batteries like the Cummins? Then there is the power for the heated plates in the air intake. I kind of have the feeling that if the two batteries in the Cummins cannot get you started, not sure how much a jump would help?

 

[JHZR2]

One grp 49 battery... 5 glow plugs. Not sure how much the draw is for your air heater... All I have is the starter kW spec.

But the point is still the same... Is there a transient rating for 12V service for booster cables. Obviously the continuous current rating for a wire is goin to be much lower than what is allowable for a transient use.

 

[Donald]

What does the copper clad do? Its percentage is low so it cannot help with carrying more power or better flexability, so maybe prevent corrosion? Or a gimik to make it look like copper if you looked at the wire in the store?

 

[spackard]

Copper-clad keeps meth-heads from stealing your jumper cables

 

[martinq]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Or a gimik to make it look like copper if you looked at the wire in the store?

BINGO!

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: spackard
Copper-clad keeps meth-heads from stealing your jumper cables

There's no "skin effect" with DC.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
One grp 49 battery... 5 glow plugs. Not sure how much the draw is for your air heater... All I have is the starter kW spec.

But the point is still the same... Is there a transient rating for 12V service for booster cables. Obviously the continuous current rating for a wire is goin to be much lower than what is allowable for a transient use.



I have never measured the current draw for the air heater plates, but they cycle on/off for the first few minutes of running. The battery voltage shows 12V when they are on and slightly above 14 when they are off. So not close to what the starter uses, but probably the next highest draw of current draw on the vehicle.

 

[dickwells]

Copper clad keeps al from forming the resistive surface layer upon contact with air.

 

[zzyzzx]

I am still using jumper cables I bought in the early 80's. I did take the precaution to solder the copper cable to the clamps though. I have my doubts as to if that would work on those copper clad cables.