If you torque them,don't waste your time and gas by driving around the block and doing it again.
Installing Lug Nuts: in the air vs on the ground
- Thread starter The Critic
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Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
I would be most concerned with car on the ground the weight of the vehicle on the wheel and friction of the tire on the ground keeping the rim from tightening evenly and having induced runout.
Even if your lugs were 2mm too loose, that's more than one thread, the flex of the sidewall would let you torque 'em down without scraping the tread.
If you measured how much a tire "jumps" as it slides sideways loading/ unloading the jack it's way more than this.
I would be most concerned with car on the ground the weight of the vehicle on the wheel and friction of the tire on the ground keeping the rim from tightening evenly and having induced runout.
Even if your lugs were 2mm too loose, that's more than one thread, the flex of the sidewall would let you torque 'em down without scraping the tread.
If you measured how much a tire "jumps" as it slides sideways loading/ unloading the jack it's way more than this.
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I either snug with a wrench, or impact and drop the wheels fully or partially to the ground then torque.
+1
I either snug with a wrench, or impact and drop the wheels fully or partially to the ground then torque.
+1
5 to 10 out of spec is still out of spec.
Howdy Warped Rotors.
Originally Posted By: TFB1
If you know your vehicle and impact you can tighten lugs within 5-10ft lb of spec and never use a torque wrench...
I set my gun to #2, and crisscross the sequence, go around twice and call it a day...
Howdy Warped Rotors.
Originally Posted By: TFB1
If you know your vehicle and impact you can tighten lugs within 5-10ft lb of spec and never use a torque wrench...
I set my gun to #2, and crisscross the sequence, go around twice and call it a day...
I always check the seats are dry and the threads well anti seized(its when you get grease/antiseize on the seat that they don't like staying tight). Get them snug in the air, then lower the car just enough to get the tires on the ground and torque to spec.
Originally Posted By: George7941
Originally Posted By: djb
Most modern car wheels are 'hub centric'
Gotta be careful here. Most modern car wheels appear to be hub-centric bacause the hole in the middle of the wheel is a nice snug fit on to the hub. My Sierra wheels fits nicely on to the hubs.
But that does not necessarily mean that they are hub-centric. True hub-centric wheels have flat-flanged lug nuts and this way the lug nuts play no role in centering the wheel. This is the way with medium and heavy duty trucks.
My Sierra has lug nuts with a cone-shaped mating surface and thus it is really a lug-centric wheel. I think most cars have the conical lug nuts.
Nice catch!
A detail that most might not realize.
My VW has those conical shaped lug bolts that need to be properly centered before you can tighten them properly. I always install the wheel off the ground then install the bolts making sure that the conical area is properly centered, then I hand tighten them very snug, finally drop the car on the ground and torque to spec.
Originally Posted By: djb
Most modern car wheels are 'hub centric'
Gotta be careful here. Most modern car wheels appear to be hub-centric bacause the hole in the middle of the wheel is a nice snug fit on to the hub. My Sierra wheels fits nicely on to the hubs.
But that does not necessarily mean that they are hub-centric. True hub-centric wheels have flat-flanged lug nuts and this way the lug nuts play no role in centering the wheel. This is the way with medium and heavy duty trucks.
My Sierra has lug nuts with a cone-shaped mating surface and thus it is really a lug-centric wheel. I think most cars have the conical lug nuts.
Nice catch!
A detail that most might not realize.
My VW has those conical shaped lug bolts that need to be properly centered before you can tighten them properly. I always install the wheel off the ground then install the bolts making sure that the conical area is properly centered, then I hand tighten them very snug, finally drop the car on the ground and torque to spec.
The main thing I do is keep the wheel fully seated on the hub as I gradually tighten all the lug nuts. I always give it a little shake to make sure the wheel does not wobble. Finger tight until it's seated, half torque in the air, full torque on the ground. Drive, be happy.
Originally Posted By: George7941
Originally Posted By: djb
Most modern car wheels are 'hub centric'
Gotta be careful here. Most modern car wheels appear to be hub-centric bacause the hole in the middle of the wheel is a nice snug fit on to the hub. My Sierra wheels fits nicely on to the hubs.
But that does not necessarily mean that they are hub-centric. True hub-centric wheels have flat-flanged lug nuts and this way the lug nuts play no role in centering the wheel. This is the way with medium and heavy duty trucks.
My Sierra has lug nuts with a cone-shaped mating surface and thus it is really a lug-centric wheel. I think most cars have the conical lug nuts.
Another thing you have to be careful with is that many many vehicles these days are not being driven with the OEM wheels. People are putting aftermarket wheels on there cars very often these days.
For them, the wheels usually need to be installed with a hub centering ring specific for that wheel/vehicle combo, and are therefore hub centric, regardless of the lug nut type.
Originally Posted By: djb
Most modern car wheels are 'hub centric'
Gotta be careful here. Most modern car wheels appear to be hub-centric bacause the hole in the middle of the wheel is a nice snug fit on to the hub. My Sierra wheels fits nicely on to the hubs.
But that does not necessarily mean that they are hub-centric. True hub-centric wheels have flat-flanged lug nuts and this way the lug nuts play no role in centering the wheel. This is the way with medium and heavy duty trucks.
My Sierra has lug nuts with a cone-shaped mating surface and thus it is really a lug-centric wheel. I think most cars have the conical lug nuts.
Another thing you have to be careful with is that many many vehicles these days are not being driven with the OEM wheels. People are putting aftermarket wheels on there cars very often these days.
For them, the wheels usually need to be installed with a hub centering ring specific for that wheel/vehicle combo, and are therefore hub centric, regardless of the lug nut type.
Originally Posted By: AstroTurf
5 to 10 out of spec is still out of spec.
Howdy Warped Rotors.
Originally Posted By: TFB1
If you know your vehicle and impact you can tighten lugs within 5-10ft lb of spec and never use a torque wrench...
I set my gun to #2, and crisscross the sequence, go around twice and call it a day...
Really? Majority of mechanics don't use a torque wrench when they put the tire back. Come to think of it, it is an exception to find somebody using a torque wrench.
Also within 5-10 is within the 10% tolerance. I do not believe that is going to lead to wrapped rotor. If you have a better documented source to prove your point, I am all ears.
5 to 10 out of spec is still out of spec.
Howdy Warped Rotors.
Originally Posted By: TFB1
If you know your vehicle and impact you can tighten lugs within 5-10ft lb of spec and never use a torque wrench...
I set my gun to #2, and crisscross the sequence, go around twice and call it a day...
Really? Majority of mechanics don't use a torque wrench when they put the tire back. Come to think of it, it is an exception to find somebody using a torque wrench.
Also within 5-10 is within the 10% tolerance. I do not believe that is going to lead to wrapped rotor. If you have a better documented source to prove your point, I am all ears.
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