Mobil1 High Mileage vs. Quaker State Defy

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Hey everyone. First post on this forum here. I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy (4.3L V6) with almost 122k miles and I take good care of it, especially with the oil changes. I have used Royal Purple in the past before they switched to the new SN formula. But mostly I have used Mobil1 High Mileage over the past 2.5 years (after I started doing my own oil changes after seeing that I could change my oil with synthetic and a good filter for LESS than what local shops charge for conventional oil and a FRAM filter. Plus I don't screw it up or forget things. I have had grease left all over the driver's side, no grease for the front end and other more serious blunders) with a Napa Gold or Purolator PureONE filter along with a magenetic drain plug. I normally do oil changes around every 2500 miles. This engine runs fairly well. No contaminated oil and only some minor lifter tick when it is wet out or when it is cool. Since I do alot of stop and go/mountain/high speed highway/cold starts in various temperatures, I use high mileage full synthetic oil with an API rating of SL because of the ZDDP content (Mobil1 HM is currently the only oil in that category). Lately, since I am coming up to my next oil change and seeing the new oils on the shelf at Walmart, I have been reviewing the oil brand to use in my truck. I have been looking at the ads for Quaker State Defy and noticing it has alot of zinc and has an SL rating. However, I am concerned about the fact that it is a synthetic blend. Which oil is better in terms of wear protection/cold starts/zinc content, etc? Except for some lifter noise and slightly lower oil pressure (probably not due to the oil), I have not really had problems with Mobil1 High Mileage and I am looking for reasons to switch and reasons not to switch. Thanks
 
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at 2500 OCI, the oil (whether it be QSDefy OR M1HM) is honestly just getting broken into, even with mountain driving ETC.
I'd run either to 5000OCI, with a Classic Purolator, or a P1/Bosch Premium.
in the 5w30 flavors.

OR Look at Rotella T6, high ZDDP, 20$ here for a jug, 5w40, Full Synthetic.
 
Welcome to BITOG. Why are you changing the oil at only 2500 miles? If you are going to stick with that short of an interval I would go with the Defy.
 
If you prefer short oil changes , QS defy at 3k is what I think would work best for you.
 
there's still A LOT of good oil left at 2.5K with Mobil 1 HM. Heck even with a conventional, you can double your intervals without any adverse effects.
 
I'd stick with the Mobil 1 High Mileage and send in a Used Oil Analysis (UOA), after 5,000 miles.

Synthetic = better cold starts
High Mileage = better additive package

Synthetic = longer Oil Change Interval (OCI)

There are folks around here that go 7,000 to 10,000 miles on a synthetic with no adverse effects proven by UOA's.

After that 5,000 miles and a UOA I'd bet that you can crank out a multi-year 7,000 mile OCI if you get the car warmed up and on a highway once a month or so.
 
Wow. That was fast. Thanks.

Yes, I realize that the intervals are short. When it is coming up on 3k miles, I look at my schedule and I do it well before because if I wait too long, it might go over.

Just habit and I want my engine to last at least into the 200-250k range. I change all the other fluids also more often than recommended. The coolant every year or other year, the transmission every 12k (I have a drain plug. It gets dropped every 30k for the filter), the axles/transfer case every year and other fluids every year or two depending on function. This car was not well maintained in the first 58k when it was a NY city car (nothing against NY city drivers or cars in general. Just this previous owner. The truck didn't even make it home from the dealership without blowing the radiator) and it has been giving me problems since and I want it to last as long as possible. Plus every 2500 I grease the front end parts because this truck likes to eat them, so might as well change the oil while I am under the truck.

So are you guys recommending Defy because of my intervals or because it is superior to Mobil1 HM and will make my engine last longer and run better? Just curious. Thanks again
 
For short changes i would not use either, i would use a conventional. If its purely between m1hm and defy, i would pick the m1. I believe the m1 has a higher viscosity index.
 
The GM 4.3L is REALLY easy on oil. I think your manual calls for API approved oil every 7,500 miles if that given you an idea.

The general feeling is that they do better on conventional oil than synthetics but mine ('98 Bravada) seems to love the PU stuff. Also, you SHOULD GET A UOA DONE to check for coolant. The intake manifolds are known for leaking and destroying the bearings.

With any love at all, your motor will outlast the rest of the truck.
cheers3.gif
 
Originally Posted By: ComputernerdBD


So are you guys recommending Defy because of my intervals or because it is superior to Mobil1 HM and will make my engine last longer and run better? Just curious. Thanks again


Because it is cheaper. At 2500 miles you will not really benefit from the Mobil 1 over the Defy, but if you are asking for the better oil that would be Mobil 1.

Edit to add: Several people on here report ticking with Mobil 1. A different oil may possibly help with the tic or may not.

I like Mobil 1, I think it was superior to most off the shelf oils at one time, but I think most major brand oils are catching up and that Mobil down graded the oil after they lost the lawsuit. I don't think it is a true full synthetic like it once was (in some grades). But that is just my opinion.
 
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Changing oil at 2500 miles is not only a waste but everytime you change your oil and filter the engine runs dry for a second or two...if you are using a quality oil now in 2012 change oil and filter 6 months or 5000 miles... I own an engine shop and at one of the seminars chrysler was there saying this exact thing with lots of data to back it up.
By the way welcome to the best place on the internet
 
Well thanks for the advice.

So Mobil1 is supposed to be better oil, but people reported ticking? Must be the answer to my problem.

Also, just a tip: I fill my oil filter to the top with oil before I put it on. It has never been run dry. The startup after an oil change is less than a second more than a normal start.

For some reason, my truck seems to run better and quieter with synthetics than it did with conventional oil, so to be honest, I would not want to go back to conventional.

The intake gasket has already been done at 73k with Felpro gaskets and I have mostly used green since then. The only exception was when I got a coolant change and they put orange in there without my permission and didn't tell me they won't put green until AFTER they started draining it AFTER I was explicit on not putting orange in and they agreed. 8 months later the mud in the radiator was the result. Had the whole thing flushed again and had green put in and never looked back. I can't seem to find any leaks and the oil shows no signs of contamination.
 
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Sounds like the truck is in good hands now, though you'd be fine to run that oil out to 5k miles or longer. If I had those options in front of me, I'd pick the Mobil 1 HM, use a PureOne, Wix, or other decent filter and change it every 5k miles if the truck sees hard use. Otherwise 7-8k miles would likely be safe, the 4.3 is a pretty tough motor and pretty easy on oil.

The front end should be fine to go 5k miles between greasing, but if its eating front end parts, I'd be looking into why. Normally once I've changed out the front with Moog parts, there's generally no more issues, at least not for a long time.
 
it still runs dry even with a full filter it maybe less but filling up a filter doed not totally fill it up and what about the oil that was lost above the filter... that will not help your engine last 200-250 those 4.3 chevy engines are good engines but the intake gtasgets go bad a lot.. we rebuild them a lot
 
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If you're worried about going over 3000 miles, my suggestion is to run the oil to whatever you're currently comfortable with, then send it in for a UOA. Then you'll have data to make you comfortable with going further - or not.

As far as ZDDP, if you're using 5w30 or 10w30 then I believe they're both about the same (~900ppm Phosphorus). Mobil documents that number, Quaker State doesn't, but the API SL rating implies it would be in the same range (between 800-1000).
If you use 10w40, then the QS Defy 10w40 ZDDP is higher while M1 HM stays at 900ppm.


My understanding of the issue with GM intake gaskets is that some OEM gaskets were plastic framed, and the plastic has a bad reaction to DexCool. Since it's not running DexCool, and the gaskets have been replaced with FelPro, it sounds like that concern is resolved.
 
Because of your location, I'd use the thinnest start-up oil I could in the 30 grade. That would likely be a 0W-30 or something like Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. As far as I know, your engine uses roller followers on the camshaft, so the need for extra zinc isn't really as great as you might think it is, at least in my opinion. Whatever oil I used, I would change it at 5,000 mile intervals. If you're at 122,000 now and it needs a change, go ahead and change it and then do it again at 125,000 and go from there at 5,000 mile increments. It's easy to remember and pretty fail-safe.

Again, I would recommend Mobil 1 0W-30 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. If you force me to make a decision between only the two oils listed, I'd choose the Mobil 1 High Mileage by a long shot, for the easier cold starts. But if you're using the 10W-30 Mobil 1 High Mileage, I would recommend switching to the 5W-30 flavor, it not going all the way to the Mobil 1 0W-30.

In my opinion, the benefit you get from easier cold starts and better cold oil flow far outweight any benefit you would get from an SL oil.
 
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