'92 Saturn SL2 - Where to begin?

[InvalidUserID]

So this is my father's '92 Saturn SL2. I've read online that these Saturns are notorious oil burner/leakers and while it has always consumed oil, I've noticed that his car is now smoking at startup and, according to him, driving around as well. Looking at the garage, there is black residue on the ground where his tailpipe is so it is shooting out the back. Also, I notice when he starts up, there is a 2-3 second hesitation/shaky idle that smoothes out. Plugs and wires are about a year old, probably fouled though (I'll check those this weekend).

Where do I start with this engine? Years back, I did the ARX rinse which didn't do anything noticable and we replaced a leaky valve cover. Since it leaks/consumes so much oil and his yearly mileage is low, I just put it on a one year OCI since he adds fresh oil every few weeks. This past weekend I used Maxlife & a P1 filter so I'm looking for a fix that doesn't require me to have to change out the oil right away.

 

[abycat]

There is a guy on here that had one or more of these and he did everything imaginable and i think he really lessened the usage. Chevyboy14 is the guy. maybe he can help out.

 

[mpvue]

saturns are very simple machines, and there are a few saturn pros here who will most likely chime in.
I've done MMO soaks to a few of them w/ pretty good results. also, make sure it has a new brass ETCS; it's a temp sensor mounted in the end of the cylinder head (the 2 wire one). the OEM one is plastic and cracks, causing all sorts of mayhem. it's a cheap 5 min fix.
'92 SL2's are good cars, they had more features than the later S series. you also have the better tubular exhaust header; it was changed to a cast iron manifold in '93.
if you have ABS, you should have rear discs as well, and a rear sway bar. they are good handling cars.

 

[ToyotaNSaturn]

You won't have to change out the oil right away as it will burn it for you.

A re-ring job is the only way to truly get rid of the oil burning if the V/C gasket is not at fault.

MMO soak may help, worth a shot.

20yo, Valve guide seals worn?

 

[InvalidUserID]

I was hoping it was the valve cover that was the problem spot for the oil but it didn't really solve the consumption. Now the blue smoke so I'm figuring that it's an internal engine piece. I'll slap on a new PCV for good measure but and maybe try an MMO soak. Cheap fixes first.

Knowing my dad, he'll just want to keep adding the oil and not spend on, as mentioned, a 20 year old car.

 

[Dakota1820]

Mine does the black spot sometimes to. I don't think its from oil but from running rich. As far as oil goes 2 quarts of 15w40 and 2 of 5w30 goes along way also get a Pcv part number fv410 its not for Saturn but they help I'm told I ordered mine today. You can try piston soaks longer the better I've found the biggest help was motor treatment b12 and dexron3. Kreen Welsh great I'm told but its not as easy to get ahold of . Make sure temp sensor is good for the rich running and don't run anything but copper ngk in the car . How much oil does it use? I'm by no means a pro but im a Saturn owner and I know what has worked for mine

 

[sdowney717]

Valve seals, they get worn out
Sludged rings - drill some oil return holes in piston, GM left them out! CRAZY dumb engineer playing around.
Weak rings, they weaken and cant seal against the cylinder wall.
All rings wear and lose tension.

A very quick uncertain test for bad valve seals is right after adding 1 or 2 qts of oil, start it up and see if it bellows out smoke when revved. The oil takes a while to drain down and stays up in the head.

 

[eljefino]

It could be your valve seals. If it's the exhaust seals the oil will just go into your manifold in liquid form then smoke there from the heat. So you'll be putting on quite a smoke show but not fouling plugs.

The DOHC engine doesn't suffer performance wise from oil burning. My SOHCs have; timing gets pulled via knock sensor.

I've tried piston soaks, Auto RX, but nothing adds springiness to low tension rings that just lose it, metallurgically.

Though 15w40 doesn't burn appreciably slower, my oil burners seem happier with it. (This is where I mention I've had about twenty of the things, a couple DOHCs but mostly Singles.) If your climate allows a 40 weight, go for it.

Check your coil packs for corrosion, and pull the plug wires up top to make sure you don't have oil seeping into the wells. This will degrade the rubber and cause ignition shorts.

 

[InvalidUserID]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll give them a go this weekend.

 

[Dakota1820]

When I was using 5w30 after I bought it used a quart every 300 or so 15w40 was about 900 miles . Before mu oil leak which I fixed with all the soaks was getting around 900 with 5w30 little less when it was highway miles and a little more when it was just around town. I've done a long piston soak and I've gone about 130 miles and the level hasn't budged it has a mix of 15w40 two quarts and 2 of 5w30 and 5w20 synthetic.