I don't mean if you have damage or the tread is less than 2/32". I mean do you run your tires to a certain mileage, or to a certain tread depth, or ? Just for example, I have some tires that are guaranteed for 60,000 miles and I'm around 56,000 miles and they are generally OK looking. They've got enough tread to be legal, but I haven't measured it. They'll definitely be legal to 60,000 if I want to drive them that long. What is your criteria for getting new tires?
When do you replace tires?
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JHZR2
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I generally get 70-100k of treadlife on my tires. Often UV and cracking gets them before that.
I usually change them at my convenience after the cracking or discoloration becomes obvious. 6-7 years Id say.
Some of my garaged cars dont have aged-looking tires. We will see when I do them. 8?
I usually change them at my convenience after the cracking or discoloration becomes obvious. 6-7 years Id say.
Some of my garaged cars dont have aged-looking tires. We will see when I do them. 8?
All of my summer tires I have ran to the wear bars or very close. Other than that it would have to be a feel thing...the Khumo's on my car which are now done, all four at or very near the wear bars, have not felt as good this summer as the last two. Fortunately the biggest difference seemed to be from a stop in the rain, had it been braking or handling where I felt less secure I would have changed them sooner.
For my all season sets, lowest I go is around 4/32" or once the traction has deteriorated significantly, whichever happens first. Same rule for winter tires, except the treadewear threshold for me there is around 6/32". I don't use mileage as a factor directly.
I will consider replacement if neither of the two criteria have been met, but the tire is 6 years old or older. I generally inspect very closely starting at 6 years, and the slightest sign I see being off (spider web cracks on the sidewall for example) and they'll be coming off very quickly. Definitely not exceeding 10 years. This rule would apply against a low mileage application, where there is no way I could ever wear out the tread during the expected life, like on my trailer for example. In fact, those will be 4 years old next year, and I'm already thinking of replacements for them.
I will consider replacement if neither of the two criteria have been met, but the tire is 6 years old or older. I generally inspect very closely starting at 6 years, and the slightest sign I see being off (spider web cracks on the sidewall for example) and they'll be coming off very quickly. Definitely not exceeding 10 years. This rule would apply against a low mileage application, where there is no way I could ever wear out the tread during the expected life, like on my trailer for example. In fact, those will be 4 years old next year, and I'm already thinking of replacements for them.
If you are talking A/S, you will know with the first snowfall.
When I change depends on whether the vehicle is used for high speed highway driving or just a grocery getter. In any case the tires get changed at or before the 2/32 wear bars. If I'm approaching the rainy season here in FL or use the vehicle for highway driving I change them out sooner. I do not keep bady checked sidewalls on nor do I keep tires on that has tread worn to or below any wear bars.
Tread depth primarily - No later than 4/32" if I am going into winter, sometimes before that...2/32" at the latest if it's summer...often before that. It's been my experience that not all tires wear exactly evenly, so when the first one gets to that depth, then all 4 are replaced.
Or, if the tire shows signs of age, cracking, etc...
On the tread depth, rain performance declines below 4/32" and snow performance declines below 6/32"...so it depends on the season and anticipated use of the vehicle.
Edit: while I was typing, I see that several others have said what I said....
Or, if the tire shows signs of age, cracking, etc...
On the tread depth, rain performance declines below 4/32" and snow performance declines below 6/32"...so it depends on the season and anticipated use of the vehicle.
Edit: while I was typing, I see that several others have said what I said....
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I'll drive anything in spring/summer, all the way down to 2/32. But really before snow flies our cars need at least 4~6/32.
Realistically, changing a tire out at 20% life vs 0% costs about a hundred bucks more, and pays for itself in one or two good snowfalls.
Realistically, changing a tire out at 20% life vs 0% costs about a hundred bucks more, and pays for itself in one or two good snowfalls.
I replace in pairs since in summer the autocross tends to wear the rears a bit so a pair every year or so is what ti's looking like. It's looking to become more often than that since I drive spiritedly and have been less than prompt with rotations. I'm also finding that my soft sidewall tires and compensation with high tire pressure wears the centers so I think a new tire choice is in the pipes.
"Fun fun fun fun fun fun" -Rebecca Black
"Fun fun fun fun fun fun" -Rebecca Black
I drive too much to worry about a time factor and do not actually measure tread depth. It is more of a feel thing for me, as I said. I really don't care how much tread is there as long as there is enough to do the job.
Possibly a difference between the capability of a worn A/S vs H/P?
Possibly a difference between the capability of a worn A/S vs H/P?
I like to replace tires around 50% tread. I usually sell my used ones to recoup some cost on the new ones. This is especially true for snow tires.
If it's one of the cars that has a winter set I'll run the summer ones down close to the wear bars, unless cracking or bad belts get them first. The truck A/Ts usually get replaced when they get so bumpy or noisy I can't take the noise/vibration any more!
I would also suggest that time should be a factor. My take on this is that if you live in a hot climate (AZ, CA, NV, TX, and FL) then the limit is six years. If you live in a cold climate (MN, ND, WI, MT, etc), then the limit is 10 years. States in between are ..... ah ........ in between.
I tend to replace probably more often than I need to.
My a/s seem to get very noisy after 3-4 years no matter what mileage. I have one Kuhmo Ecta (?) that just screams at high speed. The car really doesn't seem to like mis-matched tires, so I'll probably end up replacing all 4
Snow tires become sort of useless at s tires.
My a/s seem to get very noisy after 3-4 years no matter what mileage. I have one Kuhmo Ecta (?) that just screams at high speed. The car really doesn't seem to like mis-matched tires, so I'll probably end up replacing all 4
Snow tires become sort of useless at s tires.
Tread wear must be watched in areas with lousy weather, but dry traction is actually better with "slicks". Unless rules say otherwise, most racing tires are slicks, the "rain tires" permitted in some series have a very soft compound and a "tread" just for the water to drain. Tire compound has an increasingly important part to play in tire design. Some coumpounds don't "stick" when cold, others break up when overheated, and some can stick to snow and ice so well that big knobby treads are not necessary. (Think Bridgestone). The interaction between tire and pavement has little or nothing to do with what the tread looks like unless there is rain or snow between the tire and the pavement. Heat and sunlight can break down the tread compound over time so the tire may not perform well after x number of years of exposure even if the wear bars don't show.
I live in the Northeast where winter punishes us, I change tires based on wear because they don't last long enough for the compound or sidewalls to breakdown or crack. If you were retired in Florida or Arizona and not driving much I suspect your tires might degrade from heat, light, and ozone long before they "wore" out.
Modern snow tires in which compound does the work and don't need tractor treads do very well on dry pavement, but the tread wear goes up fast once in warm weather.
I live in the Northeast where winter punishes us, I change tires based on wear because they don't last long enough for the compound or sidewalls to breakdown or crack. If you were retired in Florida or Arizona and not driving much I suspect your tires might degrade from heat, light, and ozone long before they "wore" out.
Modern snow tires in which compound does the work and don't need tractor treads do very well on dry pavement, but the tread wear goes up fast once in warm weather.
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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Tread wear must be watched in areas with lousy weather, but dry traction is actually better with "slicks".
Sorry but this is the opposite of everything I've experienced with tires.
Tread wear must be watched in areas with lousy weather, but dry traction is actually better with "slicks".
Sorry but this is the opposite of everything I've experienced with tires.
Originally Posted By: cchase
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Tread wear must be watched in areas with lousy weather, but dry traction is actually better with "slicks".
Sorry but this is the opposite of everything I've experienced with tires.
If the rubber is the same, dry traction is much improved with slicks or low tread depth on a clean track. Unfortunately the road can be dirty or wet, also the compound on a bald tire is typically hard compared to the virgin tread.
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Tread wear must be watched in areas with lousy weather, but dry traction is actually better with "slicks".
Sorry but this is the opposite of everything I've experienced with tires.
If the rubber is the same, dry traction is much improved with slicks or low tread depth on a clean track. Unfortunately the road can be dirty or wet, also the compound on a bald tire is typically hard compared to the virgin tread.
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