'06 Dodge Grand Caravan - General Advice, Problems

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jan 3, 2004
Messages
6,338
Location
northern Alabama
It appears that I will be taking over the maintenance of a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with 4-speed automatic transmission (41TE?) & 3.8L V6 OHV engine. Engine oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid (ATF), brake fluid, & coolant will be changed very soon.

Tire rotation is in order which will be the time to check the brakes (pads) all around.

Sparks plugs will follow that. I'll probably use NGK Iridium.

I'll probably use BG Universal Synthetic ATF for the AT. Any problems with that? I'll have to see if it has a pan gasket available or uses black RTV.

Any general recommendations, problem spots, gotchas, things to look out for, things hard to repair/replace, etc. on this van? Of course, with it being a van, everything is more difficult due to the cramped nature, no?

Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: benjamming
Sparks plugs will follow that. I'll probably use NGK Iridium.

I'll probably use BG Universal Synthetic ATF for the AT. Any problems with that? I'll have to see if it has a pan gasket available or uses black RTV.


I would use only the Champion double-platinum plugs. Only.

I would only use ATF+4. Only.

The pan uses black RTV, but you can sometimes find gaskets for it.
 
Forget the trans pan gasket...I tried to use one a couple of times and had leaks...best to use the RTV sealant even if the filter comes with a gasket.
 
I just went thru this with an 03. PO gave it regular oil changes, I think, but nothing else.

I'd either use a real ATF+4 or amsoil. This is THE pedigree of transmissions that developed some of chrysler's worst reputation. And most of the failures came from using the wrong fluid (which the manual said was acceptable). you won't feel a difference, since the shifts are computer controlled, but the wrong fluid will cause excessive backing-off of the clutches, increasing wear.

I personally like the castrol ATF+4. It is, however, a little thinner than the others per the MSDS, so if it's worn, valvoline or another brand may be a better choice.

Also, the $11 filter sold by AAP is [censored]. It works fine, if you can get it to click-n-stick up there long enough to fit the pan. Spend more for a name-brand filter.

Also, rock auto - ATP JX160 inline filter is the rebadged magnefine that you can run inline with the cooler circuit. It's a much finer micron rating than the stock element, from what I've read.

I found I needed to do 1 drain fill + filter, and one other suction/drain & fill to get the fluid back to clean pink.

The 3.8 is one smooth engine in this vehicle. It's got a nice torque curve that just pulls that thing up long highway hills without shifting, without dropping lockup.... it's a wonderful motor. my VC gaskets were shot. They are pretty fancy--- $40 IIRC. you'll need 1/4" flex drive to get one bolt on each VC.

Also check all of the coolant hoses. mine were all very soft and were "ballooning" at operating temps rather than allowing the pressure to build. Gates belts were very reasonable online. The smaller heater lines, there are like 6 of them, I'm keeping an eye on.

The PS circuit says to use PS fluid but chrysler said later to use atf+4. I have a mix of atf+4 and what I had left of amsoil PS fluid in mine now. There is a 18" hose, pretty big, maybe 3/4" ID that goes from the pump to the tank over the rear VC... I pulled to change the gasket and quickly lost a good 1/2qt of PS fluid.

Also, check under the airbox. there are 2 small vac lines running front-rear with a service tap down there, and either a valve or pump under the rad support. that line is notorious for cracking and giving a P0442 and P0444 code. Mine was shot, and it looks like the PO installed new hoses everywhere else and charcoal canister with no success-- it was this 6" section of hose. Known for giving out.

It's an 06-- so it needs a coolant flush too. I found a shop vac on the rear heater lines pulled out another 1/2 gallon of water after running several cycles of tap water thru it all (refilled with distilled).

Note the condition of your sway bar link boots. mine are shot.

The rear plugs can be changed if you don't mind hugging the engine. (same dance with the rear VC). mine turned out to be pretty loose, scary but it made them easier to get out. I installed bosch plat +2s, not what I wanted but the best they had in stock, and it's running fine with them. Note-- it's a big gap-- like 0.050. These things WILL eat plug wires due to the high voltages needed to fire the plugs. Inspect your wires for burn marks.

I had an oil leak on the pan gasket. That was fairly easy to get off--- had to remove the flywheel cover since it blocks two of the pan bolts. Took my time and it was not a bad job.

Check your running voltage--- car on, fans on, brights on. measure voltage between alt frame and bat (-). should be well under 0.5 volt. If it's more, clean all grounds and/or add your own to tie batt-chassis-engine-computer. I had an 01 that had many problems until I found that. The 03 reads 0.1-2V with all of those loads on.

Inspect your brake fluid--- may be time to replace that as well.

we bought ours as a 3rd car for when we have all the kids at once (every other weekend). So ours has been a "project car" knowing it won't be a DD. These are very nice vehicles. also, there's a great forum.... the chrysler minivan fan club that is sort of like bitog. No-nonsense folks that just want to maintain them, keep them running, and don't put much creedance into loud stereos and performance intakes....

M
 
Last edited:
meep,

Thanks for the time in writing that.

So, it was leaking oil when you bought it & the culprits were leaking VC & oil pan? No more oil leaks and no excessive burning, etc.?

Yeah, it's got a code thrown, but can't remember the # right now. If that all comes together & ends up being the fix, I would certainly owe you.

The coolant hoses seem to be in good shape or at least the ones I've looked at so far. No doubt on the coolant. I have some AMSOIL coolant around so I would probably use that.

Sway bar link boots will be checked but replacement on those would be doubtful unless in really bad shape - too much other stuff right now.

Please explain the voltage check again.

Thanks for the tip on the forum. It appears that I will need to join & become familiar with the 4th generation section. I assume you're a member there?
 
I disagree with the statement that most of the tranny problems were due to use of the wrong fluid (Dexron). While this was a frequent problem, Chrysler spent over ten years and many band-aid mechanical revisions to this tranny, trying to make it better. It was supposed to be "fixed" by the early 2000's, but many still have trouble, including my '05 rebuild last fall at 100K (easy driving, excellent maint.).

DIYers have trouble with both the tranny gasket or RTV if you check the Caravan forums. The fluid leaks forever down the back side, so RTV results in leaks for many. Mopar has their own "special" gray RTV that is highly recommended by Chrysler techs. The Felpro gasket ($5) is superb and I prefer it over RTV. There is a steel/rubber reusable gasket, but it costs about $35.

Based on the history of this tranny, I would not use anything but ATF+4.

Good luck and enjoy it.
 
benjamming- no problem.

I'll add to some of diymyself--

I used the black rtv with no problems. I had a harder time getting the pan off. basically had to hit it enough that it deformed at the lip, allowing me to bang a small screwdriver in there to break the seal. It was the hardest part of the job. (I also put it on a piece of wood after that to hammer it flat again). WRT to the black RTV, I just followed the instructions. cleaned everything very well. Took my time. laid an 1/8" bead. let it sit for 10-15 minutes (while I tried to get the cheaper filter to stay in place). Installed pan finger tight. walked away and worked on something else. tightened pan 45 minutes later and added fluid. no leaks.

My oil leaks were from oil pan and VC's. It wasn't burning it thru the tailpipe, but I could smell oil on the manifolds. The VC's have copper spacers at every bolt hole that prevent the gasket from being tightened beyond a certain point. The old ones came off brittle and shrunken. New Fel-Pros (cheaper locally than at RockAuto) went right in.

More detail on the voltage check-- I had some odd symptoms on an 01 from mildly flickering lights to inconsistent MPG, to everything dimming for a second when the cooling fans would spin up. The flickering lights turned out to be a weak battery. But along the way I discovered there was waaay too much resistance between the frame of the alternator all the way to the battery. There was a ground wire from batt (-) to the chassis at the left headlamp that was even warm to the touch when all the accessories were on. With the voltmeter set to volts, and one probe on the frame of the alt, and the other to batt (-), it read up to 1.2 V IIRC. That means that 1.2 volts was being LOST somewhere through all of the metal and wiring from the alternator to the rest of the vehicle. I bought something like 10ga wire and ring terminals and made a one-piece jumper that went from:

ALT frame to right side intake manifold to battery post to vehicle ground to whichever computer sits right there at the battery (BCM?). MPG settled down, and the transmission, while it never shifted poorly by any means, came to life and started shifting much more precisely. Note: again, that was on the '01. This '03 we have checks out fine.

Also-- I may have mis-typed the P- codes. think I had P0442 and P-0544??? they were both evap-canister vacuum related. I tried the ubiquitous "buy a gas gap" solution first and wasted $20.

That forum-- yes I am a new member there with only a couple of posts, same user name.

Mike
 
I would suggest getting a spare pan and having a drain bung welded on. This will allow you to easily replace a good portion of the fluid every 15-20K miles. It also makes the job much less messy when you do need to pull the pan. You should still replace the filter on schedule, but being able to freshen up the ATF+4 in between will add much life to that transmission.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top