I have a PWM idle control valve in a 2001 BMW that I have recently cleaned all of the grime and dirt out of. I would like to lubricate the actual valve as they are always slightly oiled when they are new. It is a relatively tight metal on metal valve that blocks the air. What kind of oil should I use for this application?
Idle Control Valve Oiling
- Thread starter GeorgeC829
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The IACV on Toyota 3.0, 3.3 and 2.4's is a problem as well, and in forums specific to those cars I see a lot of posts about bad idle, rough running at low rpm when they are dirty and restricting flow. Most people clean them and leave them. I've often wondered your same question, but I've never seen anyone lube them even though I've seen a couple dozen posts about cleaning.
Hopefully someone will have a good idea. I almost wouldn't want to use anything "wet" since dirt seems to be the problem, I've never seen one replaced because it was seized.
Hopefully someone will have a good idea. I almost wouldn't want to use anything "wet" since dirt seems to be the problem, I've never seen one replaced because it was seized.
I am with the other guys...I would not "lube" it per se...oil attracts/retains dirt. I think you see new ones with oil left over from the manufacturing process or applied as a corrosion prevention measure....if you really think that lubrication would help it, consider using an aerosol "dry" lube - a dry film would not retain the dirt...
IACs are designed to run dry. Figure also you will get the occasional oil vapor/droplets from the crankcase breather as well.
Ford had problems with "sludged" IACs for years because of this.
Ford had problems with "sludged" IACs for years because of this.
I have talked to a lot of people and they have claimed that oiling will solve a lot of idling problems. It is not in the path where the crankcase breather oil would oil the valve.
What about a dry silicon spray?
What about a dry silicon spray?
You have little to lose.
On our GM trucks the IAC is only sold with a complete assembly in a throttle body.
With their design I soak them in hot gear oil overnite, allowing them to cool. Then they last years.
I have done the same with pulleys/idlers for decades. We rarely buy one anymore.
On our GM trucks the IAC is only sold with a complete assembly in a throttle body.
With their design I soak them in hot gear oil overnite, allowing them to cool. Then they last years.
I have done the same with pulleys/idlers for decades. We rarely buy one anymore.
Originally Posted By: GeorgeC829
What about a dry silicon spray?
Do you want to poison your O2 sensors and catalytic converter?
If so, go right ahead and use silicone lube on that IAC.
What about a dry silicon spray?
Do you want to poison your O2 sensors and catalytic converter?
If so, go right ahead and use silicone lube on that IAC.
No way would I lube it. Any lube would be gone is a few minutes, and would attract dirt while it is there. You want to MINIMIZE any oil on it.
As to carb cleaner leaving a lube, are you kidding?
As to carb cleaner leaving a lube, are you kidding?
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
As to carb cleaner leaving a lube, are you kidding?
Oh yeah. Lots of spray carb cleaners leave a lube film behind. Thats why you have brake kleen, it leaves a dry surface after it evaporates.
As to carb cleaner leaving a lube, are you kidding?
Oh yeah. Lots of spray carb cleaners leave a lube film behind. Thats why you have brake kleen, it leaves a dry surface after it evaporates.
I have found carb cleaner to be strong solvent with no lube properties.
Counting on a strong solvent to lube things is blank.
Counting on a strong solvent to lube things is blank.
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