Under the valve cover: '07 Civic, 60k miles

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Thought I'd post some pictures from my weekend project -- checking the valve clearance on my 2007 Civic with 60k miles. It's a 1.8l with a manual transmission.

Busy SOHC 16 valve cylinder head with timing chain. Very clean. No varnish or discoloration I could see. 60k miles on 6000-6500 mile OCIs with good dino oils (and sometimes motorcraft syn blend), all 5w-20.
IMG_20101030_111438.jpg



Close-up. You can just barely see the camshaft under the rocker arms. The lobes are small and numerous since it drives 4 valves per cylinder plus an extra lobe for the "economy" VTEC mode (hence 5 rocker arms per cylinder)
IMG_20101030_111712.jpg



Wider shot of the engine bay with the cowl cover and valve cover removed just for reference:
IMG_20101030_111735.jpg




Spark plugs. Recommended replacement is around 100k miles (they're iridium plugs). I guess they look OK but I didn't check the gaps (except to notice that they look even with each other).
IMG_20101030_103632.jpg



Incidentally, none of the valves actually needed adjustment. The inspection isn't actually recommended until about 100k miles but I thought 60k was long enough. Apparently I was wrong.
 
wow that looks way more convoluted than any of my older Hondas.

Those plugs looked kind of gnarly to me. But what do I know
laugh.gif
 
Hi.

Nice looking engine! On a side note, you don't have to be too enthusiastic about valve clearance...Honda uses a hydraulic system which differs from the solid tappets that may require adjustment with shims. A hydraulic system maintains its zero clearance after its set up from the factory. Just be sure to be good on the oil (which you are already doing) and it will keep it in tip top shape.

A solid tappet design is favored for high rpm operations because there is less inertia. But adjustments are sometimes needed. The force of the follower is spread over a wide area instead. Sometimes shims need to be replaced though in order to maintain the set amount of valve clearance that the engine was designed for. Anyways you may already know that though. Good pictures!

I would take it off anyways for a nice look at what goes on inside haha.
 
I would not go the 100k on those plugs. Mine were shot at 83k; you may want to look at them again around 80k...
 
I feel like I am beating you up here, but since the plugs are out, why in the world would you put the old ones back in?
It's only like $25 to buy the new plugs?
 
Originally Posted By: volvomix
I feel like I am beating you up here, but since the plugs are out, why in the world would you put the old ones back in?
It's only like $25 to buy the new plugs?


Exactly what I was thinking. You're not beating him up, that's a good question.
 
Originally Posted By: volvomix
I feel like I am beating you up here, but since the plugs are out, why in the world would you put the old ones back in?
It's only like $25 to buy the new plugs?


Because they are in decent shape.
I have seen plugs way worse than that run fine in an engine...
 
...then why does his owner's manual:
2007 Civic Manual

....and the manual for my 2009 Honda Fit:

2009 Honda Fit Manual

....both require valve inspection if noisy and possible adjustment?

Originally Posted By: dtt004
Hi.

Nice looking engine! On a side note, you don't have to be too enthusiastic about valve clearance...Honda uses a hydraulic system which differs from the solid tappets that may require adjustment with shims. A hydraulic system maintains its zero clearance after its set up from the factory. Just be sure to be good on the oil (which you are already doing) and it will keep it in tip top shape.

A solid tappet design is favored for high rpm operations because there is less inertia. But adjustments are sometimes needed. The force of the follower is spread over a wide area instead. Sometimes shims need to be replaced though in order to maintain the set amount of valve clearance that the engine was designed for. Anyways you may already know that though. Good pictures!

I would take it off anyways for a nice look at what goes on inside haha.
 
Looks good.

I still have not had my valve cover off and adjusted the valve on my 05 Corolla. Changed my plugs feb 09 with 127k on them and they looked like yours that they could still be used with no problems.

I figure I'll check the adjustment @ 200,000 miles. Going to be interesting how it looks.

Thanks for the photos!

Bill
 
Well that's news to me. I assumed all Honda's had timing belts and not chains. Nice, clean engine. Keep doing what you're doing!
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: mikiee
Well that's news to me. I assumed all Honda's had timing belts and not chains.


Most 4 cyl have gone to chains. I think ALL the V6's are belts.

Toyota, Honda and now Subaru have been changing to chains. Harder on the oil but easier on the customers pocketbook over the years.
 
Originally Posted By: dtt004
On a side note, you don't have to be too enthusiastic about valve clearance...Honda uses a hydraulic system which differs from the solid tappets that may require adjustment with shims.


Nothing hydraulic in the valve train in this application except for the VTEC mechanism. Most (all?) Hondas currently use solid lifters like this. I know that they used hydraulics for a time on the V6 but I think they're back to solid in those applications as well. Also, it's not the shim-over-bucket style that most DOHC engines use nowadays -- those are supposedly less susceptible to going out of spec because of the wider contact area (as you mentioned) but are more of a PITA to adjust when they do (requires re-shimming rather than just turning a screw). That's basically the reason I checked them -- I knew I could adjust them easily if needed.


Originally Posted By: Jakegday
that looks very very nice. would you mind specifying some of the good dino oils you're referring to?


I've run Motorcraft, Pennzoil, Castrol GTX, Chevron Supreme. All 5w-20 conventional. I've got UOAs up on that forum for several of these.

Originally Posted By: volvomix
I feel like I am beating you up here, but since the plugs are out, why in the world would you put the old ones back in?
It's only like $25 to buy the new plugs?


I decided not to preemptively buy new plugs because they're only just over halfway through their recommended life. I figured if they didn't look good I'd just replace them later since they're very accessible. I am open to replacing them soon if needed -- any input is welcome. The only "bad" plugs I've had the pleasure of diagnosing before were oil fouled -- so I'm not quite sure how to read them in this case!

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah

I still have not had my valve cover off and adjusted the valve on my 05 Corolla. Changed my plugs feb 09 with 127k on them and they looked like yours that they could still be used with no problems.

I figure I'll check the adjustment @ 200,000 miles. Going to be interesting how it looks.


I hope you'll post pics when you do! Does the Corolla use shim-over-bucket or jam nut adjusters?
 
Originally Posted By: rationull

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah

I still have not had my valve cover off and adjusted the valve on my 05 Corolla. Changed my plugs feb 09 with 127k on them and they looked like yours that they could still be used with no problems.

I figure I'll check the adjustment @ 200,000 miles. Going to be interesting how it looks.


I hope you'll post pics when you do! Does the Corolla use shim-over-bucket or jam nut adjusters?


Shims under bucket I think. You have to take the cams OUT to change the shims.

Def NOT jam nut adjusters. Also my Dad's Honda 3.5l V6 is not hydraulic adjusted.

Take care, Bill
 
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