2-stroke oil for DI engines

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JHZR2

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Hi,

Ive been running Redline SI-1 in my tanks of my 135i. Im thinking about running FP60 or 2-stroke oil in my next tank. Im totally comfortable running FP, but wondering if there is any benefit to the 2-stroke. It isnt going to spray on the backs of valves, as my engine is DI. It is turbocharged, but not sure if that makes a difference. If it is just going to be injected in and combusted, not sure if something as "heavy" as two-stroke oil is necessary. It isnt going to be lubricating much in the engine.

That said, there is a high-pressure fuel pump which I assume may want lube.

Thoughts on 2-stroke in a DI engine?
 
I would just use the 2 stroke oil to lubricate your hood latch and hinges...... not the motor.

Consider this: The newest DI engines from Evinrude never put any oil in the gas ever. The cylinder walls and crank are pressure fed, and as much oil as possible is scavenged and used over and over.

So, if the the 2 stroke manufacturers have stopped putting 2 stroke oil in the gas, why should you?? Like a thicker layer of carbon in the cylinder head?? Greater buildup of deposits on your intake valves... due to smoky blowby in the PCV/EGR systems?

Direct injection is wonderful on outboards, no fuel lost to the exhaust port ever....... fuel economy is nearly double the old days..... and at light throttle settings is much better than even 4 strokes, according to repeated independent studies in boating magazines.

And, many users can run all summer without adding oil to the oil reservoir.
 
I use it, same as always.

RI-RS4 said his deposits were reduced and softer on 2C oil.

My pulled plugs after 30k and 60k from the Hondas w/2C were deposit-free.

may24010.jpg
 
I used PZ Marine SemiSyn and W*M ST. Now I just use the PZ since it's back in the stores and nicely priced.

ftr- those plugs were from the 07 Accord right before I traded it at 48k, all on 2C from day one. The CRV plugs were at 60k and fine too, just worn.
 
An accord is not DI though... Good data point, and I run it sometimes in my non-DI and diesels. DI, and turbocharged DI is a different animal.

RS4 data is interesting, was there a thread on that? I didnt see it, but may have missed it. Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
It's in his long RLI thread, iirc. Maybe the long 2C thread, I dunno.


does that mean you're adding 2-stroke oil to your gas in your Tiguan?

P.S. RI_RS4 doesn't really mention use of 2-stroke oil as a gas additive in the RLI thread.
 
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Originally Posted By: fsskier

So, if the the 2 stroke manufacturers have stopped putting 2 stroke oil in the gas, why should you?? Like a thicker layer of carbon in the cylinder head?? Greater buildup of deposits on your intake valves... due to smoky blowby in the PCV/EGR systems?


Are these statements meant to address use of 2 cycle oil in a DI application specifically, or are you generalizing across any auto engine where TC-W3 is added to fuel? Given the topic your response is to, I'm not making any assumptions and simply asking the questions.

I use ashless TC-W3 (which all TC-W3 is supposed to be) with the expectation that it will not create the type of carbon build up you're claiming, because there is nothing in the TC-W3 oil or the way its burned in the combustion process to indicate any potential for the carbon build up you're claiming - at least in so far as my own knowledge goes. The ratio I stick to is 500:1.

I have also substituted MMO for TC-W3, but didn't have as much on hand (its hard to get here) to be able to really compare it to TC-W3. Having gone back and forth between the two, I'm on the fence as to which is better for the particular application I use it for. Due to local availability, TC-W3 is much cheaper; yet I've still been thinking about doing more testing with MMO than I could with the small batch I had to work with.

With the relative local availability of the two being what it is, I'm trying to work out a reasonably cost effective method of cycling the two. Unless I'm using Regane for an occasional cleaning, every tank has seen, and will continue to see either MMO or TC-W3 in it - for me its now just a matter of working out the comparative costs of the two and settling on a method of cycling the two (such as 3 tanks of MMO, then two of TC-W3, and repeat, or whatever I work out).

-Spyder
 
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
It's in his long RLI thread, iirc. Maybe the long 2C thread, I dunno.


does that mean you're adding 2-stroke oil to your gas in your Tiguan?

P.S. RI_RS4 doesn't really mention use of 2-stroke oil as a gas additive in the RLI thread.



Yep, since day 1.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Originally Posted By: UG_Passat
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
It's in his long RLI thread, iirc. Maybe the long 2C thread, I dunno.


does that mean you're adding 2-stroke oil to your gas in your Tiguan?

P.S. RI_RS4 doesn't really mention use of 2-stroke oil as a gas additive in the RLI thread.



Yep, since day 1.


I am curious what your plugs are going to look like @ 60,000 miles

I've been using the RLI gas additive
 
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Originally Posted By: UG_Passat

I've been using the RLI gas additive


If you are referring to the RLI BIO PLUS Gas Conditioner I do not believe it is thought of as an UCL but basically just an injector cleaner?
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I assume you are using it on an ongoing basis?

Have you noticed anything which might indicate that it is....effectve?
 
Dyson claimed that their gas conditioner would supposedly help with the intake clogging of the DI engine.

Haven't pulled my intake manifold off to verify it.

Yes, it's been an on-going basis.
 
My opinion is that the TC-W3 oil won't really benefit your engine, but it will keep your fuel-pump, sending unit, and injectors from corroding from alcohol/water in the fuel. That is the main reason why I use it in my truck.
 
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Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
These were my plugs after 50k in the Accord, all on 2C.

may24010.jpg



And? Where are the pics of the plugs on the accord after 50k without 2C?

It doesn't mean anything without a control (baseline) sample.
 
Huh? I'm not claiming 2C made the plugs clean, but that it didn't make them "fouled". Two different things of you think about it. These plugs are not fouled.
 
those plugs look lean to me. no they are not fouled cause the are to hot of heat range, and the mixture is to lean. i have found that if you drive hard or drive on the hiway, you should have at least one heat range colder then called out. the heat range called out by the factory is for aunt May, if you drive different you need a different plug, most likely colder. i have ran heat ranges on the street 3-4 steps colder than stock. they would go 20k-30k miles, BUT they were realy ready to come out.
 
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