MAF cleaning works!
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I have a can of CRC MAF cleaner, and will use it only for that. The Electronic Cleaner goes on that stuff. I don't want to risk messing anything up. The throttle body I hit with that cleaner twice a year.
I looked everywhere yesterday and no CRC MAF cleaner could be found in the automotive stores near me.
Any Canucks know where to get it?
Any Canucks know where to get it?
Ask at Partsource, it's behind the counter.
Why are people sniffing it?
Thanks I will go and get some...
Thanks I will go and get some...
I would bet the electical cleaner is fine. Even if it left a residue, which I'm not sure it does, the hotwire gets hot enough to burn off residue. The heat is suppose to keep them clean but I guess if too much oil gets on it, then it is overwhelmed. If your MAF needs cleaned, probably you have too much blowby and oil coming out of the breather, but what else are you going to do if you change your PCV?
I have a breather and PCV. It's a different system that Hyundai/Mitsu uses.
The PCV is in use at Idle and low RPM's and at higher RPM the PCV closes off and the breather spews all the fumes into the plenum behind the throttle body from the crankcase.
Works great because there is no residue on the throttle body (even after 300K KM's - 180K miles) and the PCV is always spotlessly clean when I change them for Preventative Maintenance.
The PCV is in use at Idle and low RPM's and at higher RPM the PCV closes off and the breather spews all the fumes into the plenum behind the throttle body from the crankcase.
Works great because there is no residue on the throttle body (even after 300K KM's - 180K miles) and the PCV is always spotlessly clean when I change them for Preventative Maintenance.
I have cleaned many MAF sensors, and it is by far best to purchase the correct MAF cleaner to do so.. in fact a good electric contact cleaner will cost triple the cost of MAF cleaner and still leave a residue. I also killed one or I assume I did as it never would function correct after cleaning... I cleaned with carb cleaner I blamed that however I also used a q-tip so either or... now I know better I only use the pressure from the can and at that I'm careful not to get to close as to much pressure.
I work with a lot of electronics at work, microprocessors 6' tall, layered 2 deep inside a 3' wide case, I don't know much about electronics, however I have learned to use the correct cleaner, and method with cleaning any electronic sensor, board etc etc... For instance we used two different cleaners at one time a flammable (the good stuff) and a non flammable (ok left a lot of residue) the front side of the box had several units in the top, boards etc I was cleaning these (low voltage DC) however at the bottom was relays etc with 480 coming in.. after a cleaning that would make any government worker proud via working on a pension for amount used when using products provided solely by someone else money I cut the power back on... fireballs shot from every corner of the box, and the door went about 6' almost killing another microprocessor =!! well that's where I started somewhat following directions LOL... anyway the cost of replacement was actually more than the machine itself cost new (back in 1984 or so ~ $20,000) one good thing about contact cleaner you can assume anything you want, and it does leave a residue but when lit off with 480 everything pretty much settles out into a nice black silicon valley smell I never knew what happened to that door etc but that was it for the good ole flammable contact cleaner... Ha sorry for the long story just reminded me when I was reading over the post.
I work with a lot of electronics at work, microprocessors 6' tall, layered 2 deep inside a 3' wide case, I don't know much about electronics, however I have learned to use the correct cleaner, and method with cleaning any electronic sensor, board etc etc... For instance we used two different cleaners at one time a flammable (the good stuff) and a non flammable (ok left a lot of residue) the front side of the box had several units in the top, boards etc I was cleaning these (low voltage DC) however at the bottom was relays etc with 480 coming in.. after a cleaning that would make any government worker proud via working on a pension for amount used when using products provided solely by someone else money I cut the power back on... fireballs shot from every corner of the box, and the door went about 6' almost killing another microprocessor =!! well that's where I started somewhat following directions LOL... anyway the cost of replacement was actually more than the machine itself cost new (back in 1984 or so ~ $20,000) one good thing about contact cleaner you can assume anything you want, and it does leave a residue but when lit off with 480 everything pretty much settles out into a nice black silicon valley smell I never knew what happened to that door etc but that was it for the good ole flammable contact cleaner... Ha sorry for the long story just reminded me when I was reading over the post.
Cool, I've had successful MAF cleanings as well. Mostly cars running better, but it actually cured the ping on my brother's 2000 Taurus. I was pleasantly surprised. If you have a ping issue, clean the MAF, it may work! I did the same on an 07' F150 and my old 00' Corolla. While driveability improved, the ping didn't go away, so a different issue.....
I keep a can of the MAF cleaner in my garage.
I keep a can of the MAF cleaner in my garage.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I looked everywhere yesterday and no CRC MAF cleaner could be found in the automotive stores near me.
Any Canucks know where to get it?
You can use the CRC QD Electronics cleaner. I will do the same great job....non residue, safe on the plastics, it does THE SAME THING AND HAS THE EXACT SAME PROPERTIES as the CRC MAF Cleaner.
Also very important to disconnect the battery first!!! Although usually when a car is turned off the MAF is isolated from current it is best not to take any chances...also make sure the car has not be stated or run for at least a couple of hours.
ALSO THE SENSOR MUST BE COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR AGAIN.
I looked everywhere yesterday and no CRC MAF cleaner could be found in the automotive stores near me.
Any Canucks know where to get it?
You can use the CRC QD Electronics cleaner. I will do the same great job....non residue, safe on the plastics, it does THE SAME THING AND HAS THE EXACT SAME PROPERTIES as the CRC MAF Cleaner.
Also very important to disconnect the battery first!!! Although usually when a car is turned off the MAF is isolated from current it is best not to take any chances...also make sure the car has not be stated or run for at least a couple of hours.
ALSO THE SENSOR MUST BE COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR AGAIN.
You should take the MAF out of the car before spraying it. I would not recommend doing it while it is in the car.
I know how to clean a MAF as I have done so before with brake-cleaner without incident... I was just asking about the CRC stuff.
I will use my electronics cleaner, thanks!
I will use my electronics cleaner, thanks!
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