10W-40 in 2005 4cyl Accord

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Hi,

Had to change oil and a friend had some extra 10W-40 after he sold his truck, so (not to waste) I did my Honda Accord 2005 4 cyl Auto oil change with this oil (fully synthetic Castrol 10-40).

I can notice engine being a bit more sluggish (more placid?). Can I keep this oil for 3,000 miles (not to waste it) or is it just too thick and I should dump it now?

Thx
 
quote:

Originally posted by Accord2005NJ:
Hi,

Had to change oil and a friend had some extra 10W-40 after he sold his truck, so (not to waste) I did my Honda Accord 2005 4 cyl Auto oil change with this oil (fully synthetic Castrol 10-40).

I can notice engine being a bit more sluggish (more placid?). Can I keep this oil for 3,000 miles (not to waste it) or is it just too thick and I should dump it now?

Thx


You have the right to choose however, 10w40 in this vehicle is just plain wrong. I have a Honda Accord 2003 4 cyl and have only used 5w20 as reccomended and had no problems. If your engine fails and Honda can prove that you used the incorrect oil, they could refuse to honor the warrenty. Just my opinion.
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Actually, they canNOT void warranty with that as long as the oil is certified (API) and changed regularly. There was a quite known case in New Jersey with Toyota about this.

Still, I think I will move to 5-30.
 
Use a 5w-20 and get over your fear. I put GC in my 05 Accord with the 4cyl and it was very sluggish. Now running RL 5w-20. M1 0w-20 is excellent as well. Car runs great on both.
 
But let me ask this. If I used 5-30 for 20k miles and now I switch to 5-20 isn't that bad? (i.e. engine is used to 5-30?)
 
Not at all. You can technically run any brand/viscosity you want and switch back and forth as many times as you like. No harm done.

I was trying to find a recent post for you to read where MGBV posted an article from I believe ConoccoPhillips about how 5w-20 oils are using better technology and in many cases are BETTER than the 30wt oils. For instance, Motorcraft 5w-20 was found to be better than the 5w-30 when they tested it.

I personally like Havoline 5w-30 (490ppm of Moly), MC, M1 0w-20, PP 5w-20 and RL 5w-20 for hard driving. RL's 5w-20 has a Hight Temp. / High shear of 3.3, equivelant to Amsoil's 0w-30. It's that good. About $7qt at myoilshop.com

From a 20wt your going to get:

1) Better performance from your engine.

2) Better gas mileage.

3) As good or better protection than higher viscosity.
 
10w-40 Syntec is a thin 40 weight at operating temp. Why waste 20 bucks worth of oil? I say use it for at least 3,000 miles. We're coming in to the summer season for crying out loud! If you said you used this oil and you live in Alaska and it was January, than I'd say change it. But not now.
 
You're doing no harm to the engine leaving the Syntec 10W-40 in for the spring and summer months it may be in there. (Arguably, a full synthetic 10W-40 offers more protection than a synthetic blend 5W-20 in warm temperatures.) What fuel economy hit you take doesn't begin to compare to the expense of draining the current fill out and replacing it prematurely.
 
That engine is going to last longer than you probably will want...just run it for it's full course (6-8k miles or so) and forget about it! In other parts of the world they would more than likely use a 40 weight in that engine anyhow.
 
The engine is not a live entity that can "get used to" an oil. Either the oil does it's job or it doesn't. I can't fathom a reason not to use 5w-20, as spec'd by the manufacturer. I certainly wouldn't use a 40 weight. Flow equates closer to cooler running temperatures than thickness, at least in passenger car engines, especially if spec'd for 20 weight.

Same theory has been used in heart disease and activity. Many think that if some exercise is good for your heart, more exercise is better. Not so. Even increased cardiovascular FITNESS doesn't equate to increased cardiovascular HEALTH! More isn't better, and actually gets harmful at a certain point. Just like oil viscosity. If 20 is great, doesn't mean 40 is better, doesn't mean 60 is even better, etc.

If you need proof SM, GF-4 20 weights are great, go look at the Honda UOA's.
 
I'm really scratchin my noggin wondering why on Earth you are having such a hard time using 5W20 in that car, as many thousands of 7th Generation Accord owners are doing (including me).
 
Dump the synthetic 10W-40 in a clean container and use it in your lawnmower. Consider it an expensive flush. A new tight Honda 4 cyl is one of the best applications for a quality 5w20. We have years of evidence it works well in this apllication.
 
Again - I used 10-40 because it was there and it was free. I usually use GC 0W-30 and it worked very well.

My only question is (at this point) - can I keep this oil for 3k miles so I don't have to waster it now. I do not have a lawnmower and the second car has already been serviced with 5-30 Mobil 1 (2nd car is 2005 Honda CRV).

So, can I keep this 10-40 for 3k miles without doing ANY harm to the engine?
 
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