I just bought another volvo it's a 1991 940se. I found it on craiglist the owner was claiming it had a bad rod knock, And would need a new motor, So she sold it to me for $900. Shortly after I went ahead and tryed to identify the knock. Turned out the tranny was rebuilt and someone didnt tighten the torque converter bolt's so no knock, Just loose bolt's. So i moved on to change the oil. I pulled the oil plug and there was about a 1/4 of an inch of sludge on the plug, And lot's of metal came out and it didnt look any better under the oil cap so i called the previous owner and she said the car hasnt had the oil changed in 3 year's. What should I do to clean this sludge out?
How to clean out severe sludge
- Thread starter slammin240tic
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JHZR2
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sludge is one thing... metal is another. Not good.
I'd proceed carefully. Start by pulling the valve covers and oil pan, mechanically remove as much as you can.
Id then refill with a HDEO, and use something like MMO, LC or neutra sparingly to help dissolve where it can.
Id want to get to the bottom of why you saw metal first and foremost.
I'd proceed carefully. Start by pulling the valve covers and oil pan, mechanically remove as much as you can.
Id then refill with a HDEO, and use something like MMO, LC or neutra sparingly to help dissolve where it can.
Id want to get to the bottom of why you saw metal first and foremost.
Yeah the metal bothered me too! My freind's keep telling me that engine wear happen's and the metal just accummulated from three year's with no oil change.
I should mechanically remove as much as possible as you stated, If i just continued with HDEO the sludge would probably clog up my oil pump.
If you've got the time/tools/know-how, pulling the cover and pan to physically remove as much crud as possible would be ideal as a first step. If you don't want to or can't do that, just replace 1qt of oil with Marvel Mystery Oil and do several iterations of short oil change intervals at 750-1000 mile intervals. If you use inexpensive Pennzoil conventional oil ($12/jug @Walmart) and inexpensive filters ($2-4 @Walmart) for those changes, the cost will be minimal. After the 2nd or 3rd time, your oil should probably remain relatively clear instead of immediately looking like liquid chocolate. There's your cue to switch to a quality oil (I'm liking the Rotella 5W-40 synthetic these days) and a quality oil filter (I like Napa Gold filters which are rebadged Wix units) and normal oil change intervals (I'd probably do 7500 miles with that car/oil combo).
Good luck!
Good luck!
Originally Posted By: Familyguy
If you've got the time/tools/know-how, pulling the cover and pan to physically remove as much crud as possible would be ideal as a first step. If you don't want to or can't do that, just replace 1qt of oil with Marvel Mystery Oil and do several iterations of short oil change intervals at 750-1000 mile intervals. If you use inexpensive Pennzoil conventional oil ($12/jug @Walmart) and inexpensive filters ($2-4 @Walmart) for those changes, the cost will be minimal. After the 2nd or 3rd time, your oil should probably remain relatively clear instead of immediately looking like liquid chocolate. There's your cue to switch to a quality oil (I'm liking the Rotella 5W-40 synthetic these days) and a quality oil filter (I like Napa Gold filters which are rebadged Wix units) and normal oil change intervals (I'd probably do 7500 miles with that car/oil combo).
Good luck!
I've got a minor tweak to your suggestion, which is an excellent suggestion, by the way. This is just based on anecdotal evidence, and my own experience, so take it for what it's worth.
I'd recommend doing the changes with an HD diesel oil, something like Rotella conventional, which is cheap enough if you buy the 5 gallon pail. In my old 1984 F-150, there were a lot of problems with sludge and oil leaks. The person who rebuilt the motor before I got it didn't bother to clean any oil galleries or anything (and he decided to put the rings in upside down, among other little gems). In any case, before I rebuilt it, I ran HD conventional diesel oil (Delvac, in my case, since it was convenient), and ran a lot of short interval changes.
The guy who took apart my engine and rebuilt it stated he's never seen an engine so clean inside, yet so mechanically messed up inside, and dirty outside. He said you could eat off the inside of the oil pan.
He did fill a 5 gallon pail with grease and [censored] off of the outside of the engine, so you can imagine how messy the outside was!
If you've got the time/tools/know-how, pulling the cover and pan to physically remove as much crud as possible would be ideal as a first step. If you don't want to or can't do that, just replace 1qt of oil with Marvel Mystery Oil and do several iterations of short oil change intervals at 750-1000 mile intervals. If you use inexpensive Pennzoil conventional oil ($12/jug @Walmart) and inexpensive filters ($2-4 @Walmart) for those changes, the cost will be minimal. After the 2nd or 3rd time, your oil should probably remain relatively clear instead of immediately looking like liquid chocolate. There's your cue to switch to a quality oil (I'm liking the Rotella 5W-40 synthetic these days) and a quality oil filter (I like Napa Gold filters which are rebadged Wix units) and normal oil change intervals (I'd probably do 7500 miles with that car/oil combo).
Good luck!
I've got a minor tweak to your suggestion, which is an excellent suggestion, by the way. This is just based on anecdotal evidence, and my own experience, so take it for what it's worth.
I'd recommend doing the changes with an HD diesel oil, something like Rotella conventional, which is cheap enough if you buy the 5 gallon pail. In my old 1984 F-150, there were a lot of problems with sludge and oil leaks. The person who rebuilt the motor before I got it didn't bother to clean any oil galleries or anything (and he decided to put the rings in upside down, among other little gems). In any case, before I rebuilt it, I ran HD conventional diesel oil (Delvac, in my case, since it was convenient), and ran a lot of short interval changes.
The guy who took apart my engine and rebuilt it stated he's never seen an engine so clean inside, yet so mechanically messed up inside, and dirty outside. He said you could eat off the inside of the oil pan.
He did fill a 5 gallon pail with grease and [censored] off of the outside of the engine, so you can imagine how messy the outside was!
+1 on HDEO if you dont want to use any additives. I would use one rated for both gasoline and diesel. which usually limits you to straight 30 wt. or 15w-40.
and for a cheaper conventional for short oci (if you choose not to use hdeo).. walmart super-tech is 9.50 for 5qt jug.
and for a cheaper conventional for short oci (if you choose not to use hdeo).. walmart super-tech is 9.50 for 5qt jug.
as others said... Mechanically remove what you can, and then I would say another test for PU. Run Pennzoil ultra 10W-30 and see if it does anything at all.
I once had a customer come in with more than an inch of sludge on the plug. We changed the oil with a 10W-30 CI-4, told him to come back in a couple of days. after two days it was thick. In all I think is was 4 changes with 10W-30 CI-4 till it was able to make it a couple of weeks. Eventually we ended up with a 20W-50 to stop the consumption caused by years of neglect.
Originally Posted By: ac_tc
The B230 are almost as sturdy as a/6, its basically a
rock chrusher. It dates back to the earlie 60´s so
its basic design is sludge resistant. Its easy to remowe the pan
so do that and clean it, also clean the screen.
Use hdeo.
While in there, you may as well look at the rod bearings. It may give you a last opportunity to save your engine and besides, what do you have to lose? Make sure you reinstall the caps on the rods they came from, and in the same direction.
The B230 are almost as sturdy as a/6, its basically a
rock chrusher. It dates back to the earlie 60´s so
its basic design is sludge resistant. Its easy to remowe the pan
so do that and clean it, also clean the screen.
Use hdeo.
While in there, you may as well look at the rod bearings. It may give you a last opportunity to save your engine and besides, what do you have to lose? Make sure you reinstall the caps on the rods they came from, and in the same direction.
I have tried the MMO oil in the past and found that to work too.
Perhaps you can dump the oil for some fresh oil use 1qt MMO and drive 1 tank of gas... then dump it again and do a mix or straight HDEO
Perhaps you can dump the oil for some fresh oil use 1qt MMO and drive 1 tank of gas... then dump it again and do a mix or straight HDEO
How far do you want to get into it?
What are your capabilities?
You can simply drain it and refill with fresh oil, do the same with a cleaner like AutoRx or Marvel Mystery Oil, or tear it down.
Yank the oil pan to clean it and take a look at the bearings.
More than likely, the valve cover is filthy, too.
What are your capabilities?
You can simply drain it and refill with fresh oil, do the same with a cleaner like AutoRx or Marvel Mystery Oil, or tear it down.
Yank the oil pan to clean it and take a look at the bearings.
More than likely, the valve cover is filthy, too.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: slammin240tic
I should mechanically remove as much as possible as you stated, If i just continued with HDEO the sludge would probably clog up my oil pump.
Im not saying to run it for a long time. In fact, after mechanically removing the sludge, Id probably put in some HDEO, start the car, idle it, and then turn it off and drain... to get anything loose out.
Id then also change filters regularly and watch very carefully.
I should mechanically remove as much as possible as you stated, If i just continued with HDEO the sludge would probably clog up my oil pump.
Im not saying to run it for a long time. In fact, after mechanically removing the sludge, Id probably put in some HDEO, start the car, idle it, and then turn it off and drain... to get anything loose out.
Id then also change filters regularly and watch very carefully.
Pop the valve cover
WE WANT PICTURES!!!
WE WANT PICTURES!!!
I would post it up on CraigsList and get my $900 back...
Originally Posted by Papa Bear
I would post it up on CraigsList and get my $900 back...
If it's clean worth that much in parts....
I would post it up on CraigsList and get my $900 back...
If it's clean worth that much in parts....
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