Chevron 5w/30

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RevRider

RevRider

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Aug 6, 2005
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Irvine, CA
Good Morning To All,

I've been using Pennzoil 5w/30 Platinum for the last several years and have been very satisfied with the UOA's; low wear, running the oil about 5000 miles, with the advice I could go to 6000 easily. Great oil!

Costco ran a special where I picked up 12 qts of the Chevron for $21.00; $1.75 per quart.

Since I am a creature of habit, I am reluctant to change, but with Pennzoil now at $5.75 at WalMart, I am wondering if Pennzoil is worth $4.00 more per quart.

I live in Southern California, with no real cold issues, or extreme heat issues; extended drain intervals really don't enter into the equation due to warranty purposes.

Any Chevron feedback?

RevRider
 
If I recall correctly(not positive), it seems to shear a bit sometimes. But the engines don't ever seem to notice.
 
Chevron/Havoline DS are awesome oils.

They start as a very thing 30-weight (9.7cst), so they don't actually shear much, at all.
 
Great oil, great price. I ran Mobil 1 for about 10yrs and many others including PP, Syntec, RP, Val Maxlife Syn and ST all 5w-30. With the exception of the Maxlife Syn having more chatter during cold starts in Feb-Mar, I have not noticed one bit of difference. So I switched to CS because it seemed like a great deal. (Also, I never ran any of the syn oils far enough to justify the price, so it just made sense for me to switch to conventional)
 
With all the rebates and bulk oil availability, $3 per/qt seems to be the max one should spend on a full synthetic. I did the same bot 2 cases of CS 5W-30 at Costco, that i'm using on a leased car and a older car w/126k miles. My new car Genesis V8 w/ 6k miles, I bot 3 - 5 gallon Jugs of Synpower with rebate for 2.75 a qt @ the Wally World in Foothill Ranch. If you can't buy the synthetic for cheap, it's not really worth it. (unless it's a Ferrari, don't sweat it).
 
Does anyone know if synthetic oil will keep the engine cleaner than the dino product?

Assuming you keep the change interval appropriate and not try to take the dino out to the synthetic level, would the dino oil be as effective in keeping the engine clean?

Thanks for all the responses to my first question, I am feeling better about using the CS.

RevRider
 
Originally Posted By: RevRider
Does anyone know if synthetic oil will keep the engine cleaner than the dino product?

Assuming you keep the change interval appropriate and not try to take the dino out to the synthetic level, would the dino oil be as effective in keeping the engine clean?

Thanks for all the responses to my first question, I am feeling better about using the CS.

RevRider


A question like this would be best answered by spending the money to send a used oil sample to the lab and see how it is holding up in your engine.

But doing that will wash any savings by buying dino versus synthetic, unless you are making a permanent change.
 
Originally Posted By: RevRider
Does anyone know if synthetic oil will keep the engine cleaner than the dino product?

Assuming you keep the change interval appropriate and not try to take the dino out to the synthetic level, would the dino oil be as effective in keeping the engine clean?

Thanks for all the responses to my first question, I am feeling better about using the CS.

RevRider


Yes dino will be just as effective at keeping your engine clean as a synthetic when used at an appropriate interval. If you search the site enough you will even find photo evidence as proof.

GF-5 will improve overall engine cleaniless even further.

http://www.gf-5.com/flash_videos/GF5spiderdeployB/GF5spiderdeploy.html

Quote:
Piston Cleanliness
The ILSAC GF-5 Needs Statement indicates that the ILSAC GF-5 performance must provide improvements to ILSAC GF-4 in Engine Oil Robustness, which includes Piston Cleanliness along with Engine Sludge Protection, and Turbocharger Protection.

A piston cleanliness test is required as piston deposits can get behind and around the piston rings, which can cause the rings to stick and be sluggish. As a result, the deposits in the ring area displace gas which is required for ring pressurization. When deposits get behind and around piston rings, a lack of compression occurs. This usually results in increased emissions, decreased fuel economy, and decreased performance.

A piston cleanliness test is also required because deposits can build on the piston crown causing pre ignition. Deposits can also build up on the piston undercrown, which increases piston temperature. Both can result in decreased performance.

To address this issue, the Sequence IIIG engine test was developed to evaluate high temperature deposits. The Sequence IIIG test is an oil thickening and piston deposit test run under high-temperature/high load conditions. This test also provides information about valve train wear. The test simulates high-speed service under relatively high temperature conditions.

Piston Cleanliness is measured by the weighted piston deposit rating in the Sequence IIIG test. Currently under discussion between ILSAC and OIL is the minimum average weighted piston deposit rating for GF-5 compared to the existing GF-4 specification.

Detergents are used to prevent piston deposit build-up, but trade off exists between increased Piston Cleanliness and Fuel Economy. The detergent components that go the metal surfaces to keep the engine's parts clean compete against the friction modifier components that go to the metal surfaces to reduce friction and improve fuel economy.

http://www.gf-5.com/the_story/performance/#PistonCleanliness
 
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Dont like it (5w-30 HAV DS) in the application I tried. MC5k and RT10w30 worker MUCH better. the DS is too thin for me and my fault for not checking the datasheet prior to purchase. You would think I would know better by now
wink.gif
DS/CS Will prob be just right for other applications that like a thinner oil as in ford modulars and hondas I bet. YMMV.
 
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If dino cleans as well as syn - what was all the protracted syn cleanup going on in my engine when changing to a syn from dino - and all on short OCI. I think a good syn keeps the ring piston area cleaner just by the more consistent engine power I get when running a "good" syn. The M1 AFE is good.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
If dino cleans as well as syn - what was all the protracted syn cleanup going on in my engine when changing to a syn from dino - and all on short OCI. I think a good syn keeps the ring piston area cleaner just by the more consistent engine power I get when running a "good" syn. The M1 AFE is good.


I believe everyone is aware that you are a gifted member when it comes to your engine and motor oil.

Dino will keep your engine clean.
 
Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles


I believe everyone is aware that you are a gifted member when it comes to your engine and motor oil.

crackmeup2.gif


Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles


Dino will keep your engine clean


Has for me over the decades.
 
Unless you race and tear the engine down periodically - looking under the VC doesnt tell the story. So, unless your pulling pistons yearly or monthly - this is all speculation on everyones' part. I postulate that clean rings and pistons make for a more consistent operation and less fuel sensitivity. REAL synthetics, properly formulated give me this consistency - dino does not.
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Unless you race and tear the engine down periodically - looking under the VC doesnt tell the story. So, unless your pulling pistons yearly or monthly - this is all speculation on everyones' part. I postulate that clean rings and pistons make for a more consistent operation and less fuel sensitivity. REAL synthetics, properly formulated give me this consistency - dino does not.


I've taken many engines well past 200k and at work we have DOZENS and DOZENS of engines around 200k before getting rid of them because of new replacements and all they have ever seen is conventional oils.

And I'm not talking 3k or less OCIs on anything (in fact they are lucky to see 7-9k ocis and on my personal engines 5k OCI is the norm), all the engines at work are beaten on ALL THE TIME, and any fuel that is available.

Everything is just fine. No NEED to tear apart perfect running engines.
smirk2.gif


Same with the motoring public.
 
Originally Posted By: panthermike
If I recall correctly(not positive), it seems to shear a bit sometimes. But the engines don't ever seem to notice.


The 30-weights shear a bit, but it is the most shear resistant 30-weight GF-4 dino I've seen.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
... ...

I've taken many engines well past 200k and at work we have DOZENS and DOZENS of engines around 200k before getting rid of them because of new replacements and all they have ever seen is conventional oils.

.... ...

I will agree that 95% or better of "the motoring public" will do fine on conventional - a little bit of varnish around the cam box is not an engine killer. Also, Group I and II oils tend to have better lubricity than "cheap" synthetics. I would prefer a well formulated conventional oil over a slapdash synthetic.
 
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