Shell Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 in Subaru Outback

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
5
Location
Wisconsin
I have a 2010 Subaru Outback with the 2.5 engine and CVT transmission. It calls for API service SM oil. I plan to do some trailer towing with it. The owners manual lists 5w-30 as the first choice oil with 5w-40 as an alternate. It also recommends 30, 40, 10w-50, 20w-40 and 20w-50 for severe driving such as trailer towing. I have used Shell Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 in my Duramax with good results. The jug says it meets the API SM requirements. Is this a good choice for my Subaru or should I consider something else? Since I live in the FROZEN TUNDRA of Wisconsin, cold starting is important.
 
It's a good choice. So is M1 0w40, Redline 0w40, and many others. I don't know the full extent of your towing plans, but the traditional Subaru 2.5 liter is fairly easy on oil (their turbo engines are brutal though).

Joe
 
Oil for your subaru is supposed to meet ILSAC GF4/5. I've had good luck last summer with rotella T 5 10w-30 CJ4/SM - that should be enough viscosity except for extreme towing. It comes from the factory (at least japanese engines) with xw-20wt! - and that grade is not even spec'd! Ours unfortunately developed a engine knock just 10 miles off the lot. Subarus tend to like higher vis oil, having a very large bore and very short stroke and a minimal skirt length on the pistons. Mileage does not suffer with the multigrade 40wt - only oil consumption goes down. Many like the 0w-40 Mobil 1 in this engine too.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Oil for your subaru is supposed to meet ILSAC GF4/5. I've had good luck last summer with rotella T 5 10w-30 CJ4/SM - that should be enough viscosity expet for extreme towing. It comes from the factory (at least japanese engines) with 5w-20wt! - and it not even spec'd! Subarus tend to like higher vis oil, having a large bore and very short stroke and minimal skirts on the pistons. Mileage does not suffer with the multigrade 40wt - only oil consumption goes down. Many like the 0w-40 Mobil 1 in this engine too.


Rotella T5 did not exist last summer. You were using the conventional 10W-30 HDEO. The T5 is a synthetic blend.
 
It was a syn blend last year wasnt it? - though not advertised as such. Since syn now means grp iii (jokes on U!), IDK what syn blend means. RT10w30 had a -40c/f pour point in a 10w-30 HDEO as RT? Thats a goodly amt of grp iii. Now you are going to force me to compare the datasheet on the two oils :) Bye for a moment ... ... ...
 
SAE Viscosity Grade T5 10W-30 v. RT 10w-30
Kinematic Viscosity (ASTM D445)
@ 40°C mm2/s
100°C mm2/s
78.9 83.0
12 12.1
Dyn. Index (ASTM D 5293)
@ -25°C mPa s
6000 ???

Viscosity Index (ASTM D2270) 147 142
Total Base Number mgKOH/g (ASTM D2896) 10 10.1
Sulfated Ash % (ASTM D874) 1.0 1.0
Density @ 15°C kg/l (ASTM D 4052) 0.8468 ???
Flash Point (COC) °C (ASTM D92) 224 220
Pour Point °C (ASTM D97) -42 -40


---- looks somewhat improved incrementally. Hope it is still a great robust dino oil.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BobFout
Syn blends are a mix of group II and III.
Just about everything on the market then. I'm not falling for this marketing bologna - syn is group iv and/or v. Group III is just premium conventional. Too dear a premium. Thats why im running M1 AFE the msds states 80% PAO so I get a syn when I pay for a syn. Bob, Your M1 0w-40 is a Group iv/v blend - good stuff!
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Ours unfortunately developed a engine knock just 10 miles off the lot. Subarus tend to like higher vis oil, having a very large bore and very short stroke and a minimal skirt length on the pistons.


That's the exact description for the reason that current GM small blocks knock. If I'm not mistaken, it's referred to as "Piston Slap".
 
ALL my recent engines had piston slap to one degree or another. Mitsi v6, chevy 4.3, Suzuki 2.3, Toyota 2.4, my snow blower! I blame 5w-30 dino. As soon as the mitsu started to rap - i dumped the oil that day and went to a 10w-40. Slap went away and never came back. Short skirts and water thin oil = oil burning and noise. It appears only the Deutsch undetstand this - and their hand is being moved too ;(
 
The RT 5w-40 would work. The recommended 5w-30 would probably work better in cold. I'd be more concerned about towing with the CVT than the engine. Any limitations stated in the OM?
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Bob, Your M1 0w-40 is a Group iv/v blend - good stuff!


I know that used to be the case, but is it still true?
 
Originally Posted By: HDNVALLEY
I have a 2010 Subaru Outback with the 2.5 engine and CVT transmission. It calls for API service SM oil. I plan to do some trailer towing with it. The owners manual lists 5w-30 as the first choice oil with 5w-40 as an alternate. It also recommends 30, 40, 10w-50, 20w-40 and 20w-50 for severe driving such as trailer towing. I have used Shell Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 in my Duramax with good results. The jug says it meets the API SM requirements. Is this a good choice for my Subaru or should I consider something else? Since I live in the FROZEN TUNDRA of Wisconsin, cold starting is important.
..I never really understood why the subaru owners manual continues to rec. the old technology of "heavy multi or single grade oils"..this hasn't changed since I bought my first subi in 1985 and only adds to unneccessary confusion..many of those recommended heavy oils don't carry the "starburst symbol" on the bottle as prescribed by subaru for your car http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/NotSoBasic_08.08ew.pdf ... and now for towing..the recommended weight is a 10W/20..(info is several yrs old, but has been upgraded to 0W/20) http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/06FluidMayEW.pdf ..newer recommended oils (Synthetic) subaru branded or equal too.. http://eolcs.api.org/FindBrandByViscosity.asp?Viscosity=0W-20 ..scroll to "fuji" and click around looking for the "starburst 0W/20 5W/30" ..the 10W/50 oil is for their diesels ... there is only .0004 clearance (much smaller then those old chevys) between the crank and the bearings ..see what happens on a cold morning in Wis.with 20/50 in the pan
 
Last edited:
not familiar with the CVT..but what gear if any, does the car have to be in so as not to lug the motor or over heat..does it self-compensate...it is not advised for me to keep my older subi in "overdrive" for the older trans when towing
 
I'm well aware what the consequences could be with 20-50 on a cold, -20F, start. That's why I'm considering a 5W-40 synthetic oil. The car is rated to tow a 2700 LB. trailer. The one I'm planning to tow is about 1700LB. Although I haven't tried towing yet my experience so far with the CVT is that it will compensate very well for an increased load by increasing the engine RPM as needed to handle it. I'm not worried about the CVT, I'll let the warranty take care of that if there's a problem. What I'm looking for is recommendations for an oil to handle the demands of towing a trailer and cold starts in Wisconsin.
 
The new T6 is thinner than the older stuff, so it should be even less of a problem than before. Old stuff was about 15.5 cSt, and I believe the new stuff is 14.2
 
Originally Posted By: HDNVALLEY
I have a 2010 Subaru Outback with the 2.5 engine and CVT transmission. It calls for API service SM oil. I plan to do some trailer towing with it.


Is it a good idea to tow with a CVT trans?
 
Last edited:
The CVT is "NOT" my concern!!!!!! There are numerous Farm/commercial applications of 400HP plus diesel engines hooked to CVT transmissions with great success. Like I stated I'm looking for the best oil for Towing and cold starts. Any help there is greatly appreciated.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top