Timing belt replacement - mileage vs. age

[Falcon_LS]

I've sorted out my Camry's cooling system problem, turned out to be the sensor located on the bottom of the radiator - many thanks to everyone who has helped me out!

The second issue I'm trying to tackle is timing belt replacement. This is a 5S-FE engine with 61,500 km (38,440 miles) on it since 2001. The car is 9 years old (11/2000 build date) and still on the factory timing belt. It had 50,000 km (31,250 miles) put on it in over 8 years, and I just put 11,500 km (7,188 miles) on it over the course of the past year.

The replacement interval is listed as 150,000 km (93,750 miles) and no time scale is given. My take is a timing belt replacement (with the water pump, crank/cam seals and tensioner) is much cheaper than a cylinder head overhaul, so I'm willing to get this out the way within the next 2-3 weeks, preferably before the end of the year. Am I being overly paranoid? Or should I wait until the car hits 150,000 km?

Thanks!

 

[defektes]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...355#Post1698355

 

[Cardenio327]

I would say go ahead and replace it given the constant hot climate in your country. Every six years would probably be a good interval, just like tires used in tropical climates.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Many thanks for the input and the link to the thread!

 

[mechtech2]

Take a look and note any deterioration. Poke around.
AT 50k, it should still be good.
But if you do get a new belt, please get new pulleys as well.
Go without a few lunches if you have to.

 

[djb]

The 5S-FE is a non-interference engine, so it will just coast to a stop when it breaks.

On this engine the timing belt life can be longer than 150K miles, but will be cut short if the oil pump seals are leaking.

The tensioner pulleys don't need to be replaced if they smooth and the bearings are perfectly smooth. But ALWAYS replace the tension spring with new. It appears that there are several different springs, so you may want to buy one paired with the belt you buy.

 

[Chris Meutsch]

Age in my opinion. I've replaced my 2001 Civic's belt twice and it looked BRAND NEW both times. Once after 85k and 5 years, and then again at 180k and 3 years. I'm waiting until 300k if I get there to even think about it again, as I could be there again in 3 years the way I drive.

 

[7055]

So who here has broken a timing belt and how far did you have to take it (mileage)?

 

[Silk]

These days it's generally considered that belts should be replaced every 5 years if they haven't done the mileage - check the Autodata timing belt book,the later editions all have a time interval as well.

A genuine Toyota waterpump comes as a complete unit,an aftermarket pump will just be the front part.Always replace the O ring behind the housing onto the block when doing these - it is always flat and hard,and a disturbance will make them leak,then you have to do the job over again.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: djb
The 5S-FE is a non-interference engine, so it will just coast to a stop when it breaks.

On this engine the timing belt life can be longer than 150K miles, but will be cut short if the oil pump seals are leaking.

The tensioner pulleys don't need to be replaced if they smooth and the bearings are perfectly smooth. But ALWAYS replace the tension spring with new. It appears that there are several different springs, so you may want to buy one paired with the belt you buy.



I respectfully disagree with the pulley recommendation. A friend of mine did his daughter-in-law's TB on her 99 Lexus RX300. Both pulleys turned smooth as a whistle but he replaced them anyway. As he usually does, he took the old pulleys apart for a look-see. The grease was completely gone. Toyota pulleys are of the highest quality (Koyo in this case). The bearings were so well made that they were running well without grease! BUT, of course, it is doubtful they would have made it to the next TB change. Just my opinion, but do yourself a favor and replace both the tensioner and idler pulleys. I strongly recommend OEM for these critical parts.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Thanks again to all for the input. I just wish I knew about the pulleys when I did the timing belt on the ES300, with the 1MZ-FE, in September.

On that, I just replaced the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, crank seal and cam seals but never replaced the pulleys because they were "fine".

 

[benjamming]

Falcon,

...and they may still be just fine.

 

[Eddie]

Ball bearings need only a microscopic layer of lubricant to preform. Just because you don't see wads of grease means nothing.

 

[artbuc]

Originally Posted By: Eddie
Ball bearings need only a microscopic layer of lubricant to preform. Just because you don't see wads of grease means nothing.


I agree if you can see "live" grease which has been slung away from the ball bearings. But, when the only thing you have is a small residue of "dead" grease, well then you probably have a problem. Some people have a run to failure mentality which is perfectly fine with me. My wife and I are getting older and don't ever want to stranded. To each his own.

 

[Chris Meutsch]

My friend had a 1996 Ranger that was over 200k in early 2008 when he called me to come look at it in a parking lot near his house after it stopped running. It was easy to see the engine cranking without the TB turning. It had snapped, but like shredded meat. It was the original and completely used up. Cracked everywhere, brittle, etc.