A Different Type of Transmission Flush Machine

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I believe this is called a Pump Inlet Machine, I read about this a while back.

As you can see they drop the pan and this method gets all of the trans fluid out. Instead of needing 12 quarts with a T-Tech machine you would need something like 20 quarts of trans fluid.

Basically this attaches where your trans filter mounts and all of the old fluid gets pumped out, it goes through the inside of your transmission and torque converter getting all of that fluid out.

This is better than a T-Tech because all a T-Tech does is change the trans fluid in the pan and cooler lines, it does not address the torque converter where the majority of the trans fluid is.

If someone would be so kind since I cannot do this, go to Google and type in Transmission Pump Inlet Machine, and there is a great article explaining this.

I have read that the flow of transmission fluid in a transmission is different in that the fluid does not go from point a to point b and come back again and start over. It basically splits in half, some goes to the cooler lines and some goes to the torque converter.
 
I'm sure this machine will appeal to the "you must drop the pan and change the filter" crowd. It adds a flush in an easy manner.

No, I do not believe that it does any more of a thorough job than the cooling line flush machines or "hose in a bucket" non-machine method.

I'm sure that those that firmly believe you must drop the pan and change the filter will disagree. That's what makes a horse race.
 
Originally Posted By: c3po
I believe this is called a Pump Inlet Machine, I read about this a while back.

As you can see they drop the pan and this method gets all of the trans fluid out. Instead of needing 12 quarts with a T-Tech machine you would need something like 20 quarts of trans fluid.

Basically this attaches where your trans filter mounts and all of the old fluid gets pumped out, it goes through the inside of your transmission and torque converter getting all of that fluid out.

This is better than a T-Tech because all a T-Tech does is change the trans fluid in the pan and cooler lines, it does not address the torque converter where the majority of the trans fluid is.

If someone would be so kind since I cannot do this, go to Google and type in Transmission Pump Inlet Machine, and there is a great article explaining this.

I have read that the flow of transmission fluid in a transmission is different in that the fluid does not go from point a to point b and come back again and start over. It basically splits in half, some goes to the cooler lines and some goes to the torque converter.


The torque converter is where most of the heat in an automatic transmission is generated so fluid leaves directly from the torque converter to the cooler, any machine that hooks in the cooler lines is getting the torque converter as well
 
I think that machine would do a great job of flushing all the fluid out and dropping the pan and changing the filter is icing on the cake.

Seems like it would use alot more fluid though.

I agree with the above that if you flush by the cooler lines you are getting the fluid in the converter as well.
 
Why are there so many misconceptions when it comes to flushing a tranny on here?
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There is no reason to use a method that wastes more fluid than is needed. If the trans only needs (example) 11 total quarts then flushing 20 through it is only accomplishing one thing, pollution and waste. The T-Tec is the industry standard for trans flush machines. There are other designs but the T-Tec is one of the best and will pretty much completely flush 99% of the old fluid out.

You could always just do it yourself via the cooler line. To the OP, interesting idea Critic. My comments are not aimed at you as you are just offering up a different method that appears interesting. I dont want hurt anyones feelings on here.
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This machine has been mentioned before in BITOG.

No matter what you do, the pump in the tranny does the work of pushing the ATF through the tranny. This machine does no better than a drain and refill of the pan followed by a cooler line flush. It cannot. Its FAQ is very misleading in my opinion. I am not sure how many of these machines are out there but I would guess that this machine and mechanics time will cost more than the traditional flush and most shops would be hard pressed to explain to a customer why this flush machine is better (its not).

Granted this machine forces dropping the pan and removing the filter which is always a good thing. But reinstalling the a new filter and adding ATF then doing a cooler line flush would do 100% of what this machine advertises.

Your quick oil change places will never use this machine as they do not want to drop the pan as they would strip half the bolts reinstalling the pan (given their mechanics that do not yet shave).

I agree with one thing they say, that a flush does not clean the filter. If the shop adds a BG (or similar) cleaner first it may clean some sludge but not wear metals and so on.

Bottom line - drain and refill the pan with synthetic ATF then immediately do a cooler line flush then install a Magnefine filter and it will be a long time before you post of your transmission problems.
 
This machine is one of the best ones out there. The machines that attach to the cooler lines only delutes new fluid with old. This machine is the only one out there that really flushes out 100% of the old fluid and replaces it with new fluid. Also, because you drop the pan first, you can do a pan inspection before you fush. If you find metal and material in the pan, you should not flush the transmission. With the cooler line style, they do not know this and if and when that trans fails, they blame it on the flush service. Its the tech that is to blame not the machine. I can go on and on about this but trust me...... check this machine out. If you want to talk more about it, call me at 970-484-6255 - Best Western Transmission, Fort Collins Colorado.
 
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Nothing new. Been doing the "messy" inlet flush for years. Very uncommon because it requires 'work'.

Back in the day, we didn't have the 'fancy' plastic wrap around bag. Just connect the inlet, start 'er up and hope your 'catch pan' was big enough.

A cooler line flush mixes old and new ATF in the pan and in the TC. That 'mix' is why a cooler line flush is and will never be 100% and why you need the 50% more. The 'inlet' flush eliminates the mixing in the pan. You still have mixing in the TC.
Its more thorough and complete, more messy, and more expensive, but how much more do you need?

What if you don't have a pan?

Every budget/transmission/tech will have their preferred method.
 
Many modern vehicles don't have a removable pan and it seems like more are going that way all the time. As a DIY guy of course I'm never going to buy a trans. flush machine, but even if I were running a regular shop I would be concerned about buying a machine I could only use on some vehicles.
 
If done properly a DIY cooler line flush will remove 95%+ of the old fluid! WHy is everyone saying "there is mixing in the pan and converter"???????? NO. If you drain the pan and fill with fresh ATF the converter is flushed clean at the end. There is very little contamination, a few ounces maybe from the return line.

The only time there is mixing of old and new is when the pan is not completely drained or you choose the feed line to flush instead of the return.

A T-Tech when used in conjunction with a pan drop will get 90%+ of all old atf out of the system. Where do you guys get your facts from. BTW this isnt aimed at one person, more like the whole thread! Pretty soon we will be telling people that drain and fills are more effective.
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I have flushed my Camry by draining the pan, filling it up, then immediately doing a cooler line flush. I doubt this fancy machine would do any better and am done in 30 minutes with no hassles from dropping the pan. Even if you did not have a drain plug in the pan, if you started a cooler line flush until you saw air bubbles in the clear hose. Then stopped and added ATF, you would do almost as well.

I would say most shops do not want to deal with dropping the pan and this flush machine would be hard to find. If they expect a premium for the way they flush they will not get it from me.

IMHO - you are better off spending your money on premium ATF such as Redline or Amsoil or Mobil 1 than a machine that proclaims to get every tablespoon of old ATF out of your transmission.
 
T-Tech is the most purchased machine because it is faster and cheaper. It is faster because they are not droping the pan and cheaper for them because they are not including a filter or gasket in the price of the service.Anyone that does not change the filter on a transmission with a user serviceable filter is asking for trouble how long do you think the filter is designed to go? Everytime the transmission shifts gears or the torque converter locks and unlocks you get friction material and metal shavings being put into the ATF.

Reputable transmission shops use the type that requires a pan drop and filter change fast lube joints and a lot of dealerships use T-Tech style.Few if any OEM's recomend transmission flushing or engine flushing machines most have TSB's against the use of such devices as if dealerships car!
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
Few if any OEM's recomend transmission flushing or engine flushing machines most have TSB's against the use of such devices as if dealerships car!


Hmmm, not sure about that. GM recommends the use of a flush machine and sells it as the Transflow service tool. Ford also recommends use of power flush machines. Off hand, Honda is the only company I know of specifically saying not to use these kinds of machines. Honda also calls for using on-car brake disc lathes instead of traditional bench lathes, which is a very uncommon procedure in the rest of the automotive world.
 
When the manufacturer recommends changing the transmission fluid every 30,000 miles, do they mean a drain and refill or a complete exchange of fluid?

Mark
 
MOst mean "drain and fill". Many OEM's do not recommend flushing, although if done properly and at appropriate intervals is actually a better approach to transmission servicing.
 
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My 2002 Buick Century has a 10 quart ATF capacity. When I drop the pan I get close to 8 quarts out. I change the filter, clean the magnets (I've added a couple of extras) and call it good. I'm satisfied with 80% new fluid which includes a bottle of Lubegard Red. I don't believe flushing is necessary.
 
Oh no GM has TSB's about flushing machines both for the engine and the transmission! GM does not make anything themselfs tool wise even their special service tools what ever they call theirs are not made by them!! I also do not believe that they have any machine that can be bought if they did they would have to go through GMSPO and NAO and I worked for both for 7 years!I have some AC/Delco T-Shirts because I used to work with a bunch of AC/Delco guys and they gave to me I assure you AC/Delco did not make the T-SHirts any more then GM makes a transmission flushing machine.

FIlter COuncil Provided this information http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/repair-topics/rip-offs-scams/transmission-fluid-exchangeflush%E2%80%94it%E2%80%99s-good-for-your-transmission-if-it%E2%80%99s-done-the-right-way

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2007/26-003-07.htm Chrysler's take on flsuhing.

I could not find a single TSB calling for the use of a Flushing Machine. Not a single OEM routinely recomends Flushing.

Dealerships sell these "Flush" or "evacuation" services as a money maker. Same thing for oil additives, engine flush's, wiper blades etc.........Any extra they can tack on or get a person to buy is more profit!Not a single OEM recommends flushing machines at all. Some owners manuals even caution against them. When they do say flush what they mean is to drain fill and repeat.

Dealerships are not owned by the OEM's who's cars they sell. The real reason they sell car's is to work on them. Most Dealerships make far more money on the service side then on the sales side. In the winter time especially here in Michigan the service side carries the sales side through the entire winter. So never think that if a dealership overs a service or supplement for fuel/oil/or any other fluid that it is OEM. If it was OEM it would come in a can that had OEM marking all over it and OEM part numbers that could be tracked back to the supplier.In fact all of the chemicals last time I checked that GM recomends used to be listed in the GM High Performance Manual. You always save them even when the new ones come out because they often would drop things from the catalog but still had them in the war house or net work for ordering like the OLd EOS supplement. You will not find a GM part number for a transmission flushing machine or for transmission flushing/seal conditioning supplement.

If I am wrong please point me in the direction of the TSB calling for a the use of a Flushing machine for Transmission.
 
Even with a flush machine you do not get all of the old stuff out. Think about it as you pump in the new fluid it is not a wall of fluid that is displacing all the old fluid the new fluid is mixing with the old as you add it. Their is no way to prevent them from mixing. So as you pump in the new and pump old the old 12 or so quarts will not do it. At the very least if a transmission was a 10 quart trans like many FWD's are you would need at least 16 quarts I am sure to even come close to getting 100% transfer due to the mixing of the old and new as you add it.

People do not think critically they just listen to what the guy selling the service says and decide if they can afford it. That fluid is not a way it is just like if you stuck a hose with water in a fish tank full of food coloring and then stuck another line with vacum on it on the other side. The fresh water is going to go every place int he tank and as you pump you will get a mix of old water and fresh water that is diluting the entire mix. Same thing in the transmission only we are talking ATF not water.
 
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